Replacing glow plugs with your own hands. How to make a smoke generator with your own hands How to make a glow plug yourself

The fact that glow plugs make it easier to start a diesel engine, and if they break down, it will not start or will “triple” and require support from the starter. Let's consider what troubles can await the owner when replacing these elements.

Why are glow plugs needed?

Glow plugs warm up the combustion cylinders from the inside, thereby facilitating ignition fuel mixture in a diesel engine. The operation of the spark plugs is controlled by a control unit and is powered by a voltage supply from a relay. The control unit regulates the time after which the relay transmits voltage to the spark plugs.

By and large, glow plugs - consumable item in service diesel engine, it is recommended to change them every hundred thousand kilometers.

In our conditions, when the car is stored in the open air, it is started “cold” in winter and used for short-distance urban travel, often with warm-up mode idle move, it is recommended to change glow plugs every 20-30 thousand kilometers, or once every one and a half to two years.

How to determine the need for replacement

Problems with glow plugs will be indicated by difficulties with cold starting of a diesel engine.

If one spark plug fails, the engine may start, but will not work normally. If two or more spark plugs break, the diesel engine will be delayed at the moment of setting, operate unstably, and require support from the starter.

The surest sign of a faulty relay or glow plug control unit is absence of a characteristic click, which is heard when the key is turned in the ignition. Owners of diesel engines hear this sound every day.

The operation of the glow plugs can be checked different ways. Simplest - test them with a multimeter by disconnecting the wiring from the central electrode in the spark plug socket (well) and measuring the resistance of the latter with a device.

Basic rules for replacing glow plugs

Choose original spark plugs from well-known manufacturers such as Bosch, Beru, Delphi. Poor quality ones will last a maximum of one season.
Select glow plugs depending on the engine type and in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
Change the entire set, even if some spark plugs seem to be working.

Typical problems when replacing spark plugs

Removing glow plugs that require replacement is a simple task only at first glance .

The elements are quite fragile, and an inexperienced car owner risks break the candle trying to unscrew it from the cylinder head. In addition, the spark plug inside the cylinder head is in quite difficult conditions: the block can be deformed due to overheating, the spark plug well can become clogged with soot deposits, which literally stick to the spark plug and prevent its normal removal.

As a result, a seemingly simple extraction procedure leads to the fact that the owner cannot adequately calculate the forces applied and simply “breaks the head” of the candle - that is, the fragile element breaks along the thread.

In such a situation, you will have to remove the candle in the workshop. This is complex, expensive work associated with dismantling the cylinder head and drilling out the remains of the spark plug from the well.

Correct dismantling

How easily and without consequences you can replace the spark plug depends on how it was installed.

But there is another important aspect - using the right tools.

To remove the candle you need to use torque wrench only. The torque that must be applied to unscrew the spark plug is specified by the manufacturer. This information should be studied even before the procedure for replacing elements and strictly followed.

A useful recommendation is to dismantle the glow plugs after the engine warms up. In this case, the difference in the coefficients of thermal expansion of the material of the spark plug and the cylinder head will make it easier to unscrew the elements.

If the spark plug cannot be removed even after reaching the maximum force, you should stop trying.

In this case, the owner will be helped soaking method when a penetrating lubricant is applied to the candle thread area (can be replaced with kerosene). Then you need to wait, repeating the procedure if necessary. The waiting time can last up to a day or even more, but it is important to saturate the threads of the spark plug with lubricant.

During “soaking”, you can and even should use the car as usual: heating and then cooling the engine will only help “deliver” kerosene or lubricant to the threads faster, so that the spark plug is easier to remove.

If you managed to unscrew the spark plug along the thread, but then it got stuck in the well due to accumulated deposits, you will also have to use the “soaking” method. But in this case, for obvious reasons, it is no longer possible to start a diesel engine. Prolonged dissolution of carbon deposits and soot in the spark plug well with kerosene will help remove the spark plug without damaging it.

Installing a new spark plug

Before screwing new elements into the cylinder head, be sure to apply some ceramic grease on the thread and body of the spark plug. This will make it much easier to remove the worn-out element.

Second important point- before installing the spark plug, carefully clean the threads and well from carbon deposits and deposits.

At the very moment of screwing, be careful with the force. Not tightening a new glow plug can cause more damage than screwing it in with more force than necessary.

If you exceed the recommended torque, you risk breaking the new spark plug.
If the applied force is not enough, gases will break into the spark plug well. The carbon deposits formed in this way will make it difficult to remove the element during a planned replacement.

About proper launch diesel engine in winter we wrote.

Fuel injectors for diesel engine you will find in our catalog

To test one of the devices, we needed a “real” smoke generator. Real in the sense that we were not satisfied with the water-glycerin fog produced by “heavy” smoke generators, widely used in show business. Here are the suspended tiny particles of soot - this is real smoke, which, as is known, is formed when something carbon-containing burns under conditions of some deficiency of the oxidizer.
A search on the Internet yielded results: several devices of this type were available for manufacturing on the knee, used mainly for searching for cracks and crevices in the gas distribution systems of internal combustion engine vehicles. One of them, with some modifications, was taken as the basis. Actually what happened:

The principle of operation is clear to anyone who has overheated a frying pan with oil at least once in their life - a lot of smoke is produced. So in this generator - into the chamber where the oil is very, very heated, air is pumped in, which comes out of the chamber with smoke already formed. In this case, we use petroleum jelly (purchased at a pharmacy), as it is the safest from the point of view of the formation of harmful combustion products. Let's look at the camera device:

The heating element in it is a Febi 15956 glow plug for diesel engines, purchased from a well-known spare parts store for foreign cars. This thing has an M12x1.25 thread, which is close to the plumbing 1/4 version, it is short, which reduces the size of the camera, and it is relatively inexpensive.

The chamber itself consists of a section (squeeze) of an inch pipe, a fitting-adapter from 1/4" to 1/2", an adapter from 1/2" to 1" and a cap-plug of 1". The joints are sealed with plumbing thread for sealing threaded connections. All this was purchased in one hardware and construction hypermarket. Air enters and exits the chamber through two copper tubes with an M5 thread. They are screwed into two threaded holes in the cover and secured with nuts and washers. The air supply tube descends into the chamber below. And so that there are fewer droplets of oil in the escaping air, it passes through a piece of steel wool to remove the dishes:

The camera is fixed to a piece of board using corners, a clamp and a rubber gasket:

Air is supplied from a car compressor. Initially, it was assumed that the glow of the spark plug would need to be regulated, for which a circuit was assembled with a PWM power regulator on the popular 555 timer:

However, when setting up the operation of the generator, this regulator was turned up to the maximum and subsequently worked more simply as a connector. The compressor and glow plug are powered by a regular computer power supply. The photo below was taken while the generator was running. On it you can see a whitish cone coming out of an open tube, this is the required smoke:

The smoke smells like a recently extinguished candle and its smell dissipates relatively quickly.
Also, for the test, we needed to determine the concentration of this smoke in the air; how we did this will be discussed next time.

I decided to write after struggling with starting the engine for several days. I hope the article will be useful. As it turned out, the problems were just at their peak. For those who don’t know why it is needed, I’ll tell you in a nutshell. The glow plug is designed to start a glow-type engine; it allows you to warm up the spark plug before starting the engine. You can read in detail on the vastness of the world...

And now to the point, I bought this glow more than a year back, I decided to check, inserted the battery, clamped the spark plug and silence. More precisely, the candle does not heat up. I started to figure it out, there seems to be contact everywhere, but there is no short circuit, the battery lights the spark plug directly, but does not work with incandescence. In the comments to the product it is recommended to change the polarity when installing the battery, I did so, the glow started working and I calmed down, I had it for a year and then they gave me fuel, I had free time, I decided to start and drive the car. But that’s not the case, it won’t start. At first I thought there was a problem with the carburetor settings. I twisted the needles - there was no shift. After several engine overflows, I began to look deeper for the reasons. I started with the spark plug, checked it separately by connecting it directly - it works. I turn it on and it works. Well, I think it's strange. I'll try again. It won’t start, I unscrew the spark plug and it’s wet. It became clear that the tension was naughty. I came home, took it apart, checked the contacts with a tester, and as it turned out, the contacts on both “+” and “-” disappeared. All this happened while shaking, and sometimes just like that. As one movie said: “Only Allah knows where the spark goes in this one...”. It would be possible to throw a glow on the cabinet, leave a corresponding comment about the product, go and buy a new one, but this is not our method.

So we need:
1 - foil. I used regular food grade.
2 - an awl or something similar, for example, a thin screwdriver.
3 - File or sandpaper.
4 - pliers.

And now the revision itself.
Let's sort it out.

We push a little foil twisted into a tube into the “+” contact, but don’t push it too far, so that it doesn’t fall out and sticks out a little from the hole.
Next we take on the “-”. We pick out the “snail” and bend it so that there is an even spiral without overlaps.

We assemble it, insert the battery and everything works like clockwork.

From myself I will say the following, the heat is worth the money, simple and convenient. I would say nothing superfluous. Perhaps for many it will work without modifications, but I would recommend at least sanding the contacts. I hope the material will be useful. Thank you for your attention.

The glow plug used in glow ignition engines is very simple. Its core is separated from the body by poronite or mica washers. The spiral is attached by caulking one end onto the body, and the other directly onto the core. It is for this purpose that they have specially shaped slots. Spot welding can also be used instead of welding.

The glow plug works like this: when the engine starts, voltage begins to flow to the core and housing, which comes from the current source. Rechargeable batteries usually act as that same source. A spark plug for internal combustion engines requires a voltage of one and a half to three volts. It is then that the candles will work normally and the light red color of the candle when glowing will be ensured. Depending on the material of the spark plug and its cross-section, the required voltage may vary.

If the designer has a desire to squeeze out own engine the highest power, then he will have to choose candles not only for hot, but also for cold weather, i.e. provide for two extreme temperatures that may occur during competitions. This should only be done on those air sheets that will be installed directly at the competition.

For aircraft models, a slightly different glow plug can be used, which has some differences from the usual one, such as the presence of a metal deflector that protects the spark plug spiral from fuel contamination when the engine is running on a rich fuel mass. The plate should have the same width as the outer diameter of the spiral, and its thickness should be 0.2 - 0.3 mm. Typically, brass or steel is used in the production of records. The deflector is attached by contact welding or riveting to the grooves of the spark plug body. Such a spark plug allows the engine to operate even at low speed. Of course, the necessary spark plugs must be tested on the engine in advance to ensure their functionality.

Many newcomers to modeling have little idea of what a glow plug is, how it works and how it differs from a spark plug for an internal combustion engine and stop only with scant information: an internal combustion engine needs a spark plug, it is used to start and operate the engine and... All.

In fact, the glow plug is the engine ignition system for the model. It is installed on engines running on a nitromethane mixture as an alternative to spark ignition.

A glow plug has no moving parts. Its working element is a fixed spiral.

Using a glow plug, the internal combustion engine is started. To do this, you need to connect a glow plug to the glow plug (this device heats the coil to the ignition temperature of the fuel). After igniting the fuel mixture, the engine starts, and the operating temperature of fuel combustion maintains the glow plug spiral in a hot state (without a glow plug).

Glow plugs can be of two types: standard plugs and turbo. Standard spark plugs have a straight body with threads through which the spark plug is screwed into the cylinder head.

Turbo spark plugs have a conical shape of the part that is screwed into the combustion chamber. The conical part of the candle is connected to the head in a special conical-shaped cavity (the head is specially designed for this type of candle). By using special spark plugs and a head designed for them, they achieve increased compression, reduced losses, and, as a result, greater productivity.

A standard spark plug is sealed in the head using a copper gasket, while a turbo spark plug is sealed due to its conical shape.

Turbo spark plugs are used on 3.5 cc engines. at competitions. In other disciplines their use (in competitions) is limited. When choosing standard or turbo spark plugs for your model, it is better to give preference to traditional spark plugs, as they are easier to buy and cost much less.

Glow plugs must be of the type recommended for your ICE manufacturer. When choosing a spark plug, pay attention to the code, which indicates the operating temperature of the spark plug (spiral). However, this notorious code can prevent you from choosing the right candle. Unfortunately, the manufacturers do not have unified system markings of spark plugs, and each of them produces from 2-4 to 10 or more types of glow plugs. It's easy to get lost here. If you are not a professional racer who knows in detail all the features of the spark plugs available for purchase, it will be difficult for you to navigate.

Remember: the choice of a cold or hot plug in most cases comes down to the size of your internal combustion engine. Small models require hot plugs, while larger engines require cooler plugs. If you are using fuel with a high percentage of nitromethane, you need a cold plug, and if you are using a low nitromethane content, then a hot one.

For those looking to race where performance is important, compression ratio should be considered. Engines with a high compression ratio like cooler spark plugs, while engines with a low compression ratio do the opposite. Of course, in order to find out the compression ratio, you need to measure the compression of your internal combustion engine, but an experienced modeler will sooner or later have to acquire a compression gauge. Let us also remind you that engine compression can be regulated using a gasket under the engine head. The thicker the gasket, the less compression. And installing a thin gasket increases compression. But such adjustment is already the domain of experienced modellers who know how to regulate the internal combustion engine.

Using the wrong spark plugs will not do your engine any good. If the spark plug is too hot, this will manifest itself in detonation, too early ignition and increased operating temperature of the internal combustion engine. These symptoms indicate an incorrectly selected spark plug; operating the engine in this type is unacceptable! Very often, when using too hot spark plugs, the internal combustion engine fails.

Using a spark plug that is too cold has a less destructive effect on the engine: idle speed will be poorly adjusted, the engine will burn more fuel and develop a lower maximum speed.

Glow plugs are best stored in their original packaging, which is marked with the code and (most often) operating temperature. This way you will have less chance of mixing up the candles. Visually, you can try to determine whether your candle is cold or hot by looking at the spiral. A thinner spiral with more turns indicates that the candle is hot. A thick spiral wire and a smaller number of turns indicate that the candle is cold.

Beginner modelers often ask which candles are preferable - cold or hot, in terms of their value

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DIY glow plug repair

I removed the manifold, began to deal with the spark plugs and saw that:

1) the nut on one spark plug has been unscrewed and fallen off, the terminal is hanging nearby
2) the terminal on the spark plug wire of the first cylinder is torn off
3) the remaining nuts are loosened to varying degrees

Since I previously noticed that all the spark plugs were working and uniform heating was visually visible, and the engine started much better, I can conclude that the nuts were unscrewed during operation and diesel fuel, which flowed in abundance from under the injectors of some kind, played a significant role in this time - until I bought a hose of the required diameter and fixed all the leaks. All the nuts are stained with diesel fumes. Apparently, I still missed the first cylinder - the spark plug couldn’t work in it, the wire was torn off - and I saw it, I just couldn’t understand where it came from. After removing the manifold, I saw an unused spark plug and paid attention to it.

All spark plugs show a resistance of 0.3-0.4 Ohm, taking into account the tester error. All wires ring and show 0 ohms.

I tried it twice already, however, in the garage - when the thermometer showed +15 after warming up the garage and after idle time, when it showed +5 (it was -7 outside at that moment). It actually starts from half a turn - this was not the case before, at first shaking and contractions began with one cylinder - this lasted for varying lengths of time, depending on the air temperature around.

At the same time, I restored the insulation of the wiring harness, the insulation of the sensors, eliminated the twists, soldered the contacts, and put on heat shrink. In the process - setting the advance angle injection pump and checking valve timing.

By and large, glow plugs - consumable item

Or once every one and a half to two years.

The surest sign of a faulty relay or glow plug control unit is

The performance of glow plugs can be checked in different ways. Simplest -

Removing glow plugs that require replacement is a simple task only at first glance .

break the candle

Correct dismantling

But there is another important aspect - using the right tools.

A useful recommendation is to dismantle the glow plugs after the engine warms up

soaking method

Installing a new spark plug

The second important point is to carefully install the candle before installing it.

Perhaps all owners diesel cars, are very familiar with glow plugs. These small “helpers” ensure reliable engine starting, especially in subzero temperatures. However, for their proper operation, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the glow plug relays. Let's try to figure out what it is, as well as how to check and replace the relay.

What is a glow plug relay?

Before you find out what a relay is, you need to understand the principle of operation of engine glow plugs. Everyone knows that in gasoline engines To ignite the working mixture, a special device is used - a spark plug, which creates a spark charge at certain points in time. There is no such device in diesel engines, since the mixture is ignited spontaneously directly at the compression stage. However, to make this process uninterrupted, it is necessary to first heat the mixture to the required state. For this purpose, glow plugs of a diesel engine are used. A current of a certain magnitude is supplied to the contacts of the spark plugs, with the help of which the coil is heated. The heat generated from the spiral side is directed into intake manifold and cylinders, ensuring the mixture is heated to the required temperature.

In the process of increasing the engine temperature, the temperature of the mixture increases, the extra degrees for which is the ignition of the mixture even before it enters the engine cylinder, which leads to inefficient operation of the engine or even failure. To prevent this from happening, glow plugs change their temperature, maintaining it within certain limits. This is exactly what the glow plug relay is designed for.

A relay is a device that closes or opens an electrical circuit depending on changes in the controlled quantity. In this case, the relay temporarily supplies current to the glow plugs and cuts it off, allowing the plugs to “cool down”. After this, the cycle is repeated again until the motor stops.

It is quite logical that if this relay malfunctions, the glow plugs will also stop working. This means that the fuel will not receive the required temperature and will not burn efficiently, which will lead to loss of power and excessive fuel consumption. Therefore, this device must be maintained in working condition. Let's assume that we doubt its performance and we need to check it. It's time to find out how to do this.

Where is the glow plug relay located, how to check and change it?

Since this relay is electrical device, the process of checking it is noticeably simplified. For this you will need a multimeter. First you need to find this relay. It can be done in the form separate block or a box that is attached to the car body. The attachment point to the body is called the “ground”.

Through this connection, power is supplied from the negative terminal. All other ends are positive. Additional information The relay receives from the engine control unit via special terminals. The block processes information from temperature sensors and creates the necessary impulse at the relay input, which causes it to close and open. This indicates that the relay is connected additional package wires

The easiest way to find this relay is by the wires coming out of the spark plugs. Next, switch the multimeter to measure voltage and measure it with the ignition on at the relay output. To do this, one of the probes is pressed against the terminals leading to the glow plugs, and the other to the car body. The output voltage must be at least 12 volts. As a last resort, measure the voltage at the battery terminals, and if it turns out to be 12 or more, and 11 at the relay, then it is considered faulty. Another way to check is to measure the resistance between the relay terminals. This is done individually for each type of device, since standard resistance values may vary.

There is another - indirect way of verification. To do this, unscrew the spark plugs, connect the wires with the relay to them and turn on the ignition. If the spark plugs start to heat up, then the relay is considered to be working. Otherwise, either the spark plugs or the relay itself are faulty.

To change a relay, you must first remove the wires leading from it. electronic unit controls and glow plugs. Then its fastening is unscrewed. After this, the ground connection point of the new relay with the body is thoroughly cleaned, and a new device is installed in place of the old one.

Before removing the plugs, you must remember their installation location, otherwise there is a risk of assembling the device incorrectly, which can ruin the operation of both the relay and the glow plugs. To avoid having to go under the hood again, it is also recommended to replace the spark plugs.

This completes the check and replacement of the glow plug relay. As you can see, this is not a complicated procedure and is quite doable. on our own. We wish you good luck on the roads!

kalina-2.ru

Improved glow plug from Turnigy. - Parkflyer

Good day, modelers! We will talk about refining the glow.

I decided to write after struggling with starting the engine for several days. I hope the article will be useful. As it turned out, the problems were just at their peak. For those who don’t know why it is needed, I’ll tell you in a nutshell. The glow plug is designed to start a glow-type engine; it allows you to warm up the spark plug before starting the engine. You can read in detail on the vastness of the world...

And now to the point, I bought this glow more than a year ago, decided to check it out, inserted the battery, clamped the spark plug and silence. More precisely, the candle does not heat up. I started to figure it out, there seems to be contact everywhere, but there is no short circuit, the battery lights the spark plug directly, but does not work with incandescence. In the comments to the product it is recommended to change the polarity when installing the battery, I did so, the glow started working and I calmed down, I had it for a year and then they gave me fuel, I had free time, I decided to start and drive the car. But that’s not the case, it won’t start. At first I thought there was a problem with the carburetor settings. I twisted the needles - there was no shift. After several engine overflows, I began to look deeper for the reasons. I started with the spark plug, checked it separately by connecting it directly - it works. I turn it on and it works. Well, I think it's strange. I'll try again. It won’t start, I unscrew the spark plug and it’s wet. It became clear that the tension was naughty. I came home, took it apart, checked the contacts with a tester, and as it turned out, the contacts on both “+” and “-“ disappeared. All this happened while shaking, and sometimes just like that. As one movie said: “Only Allah knows where the spark goes in this one...”. It would be possible to throw a glow on the cabinet, leave a corresponding comment about the product, go and buy a new one, but this is not our method.

So we need:
1 - foil. I used regular food grade.
2 - an awl or something similar, for example, a thin screwdriver.
3 - File or sandpaper.
4 - pliers.

And now the revision itself.
Let's sort it out.

We push a little foil twisted into a tube into the “+” contact, but don’t push it too far, so that it doesn’t fall out and sticks out a little from the hole.

Next we take on the “-“. We pick out the “snail” and bend it so that there is an even spiral without overlaps.

We assemble it, insert the battery and everything works like clockwork.

www.parkflyer.ru

Audi A4 1.9TDI PD AVF (MT) › Logbook › Replacing glow plugs, removing the broken spark plug.

I decided to replace the glow plugs, because new ones had already been purchased, but the old ones were unknown whether they worked or not.
The decision arose almost spontaneously, the car is in the garage, it’s the weekend, there’s a couple of hours of time - everything for a small replacement. We drove into the garage with Win1531, quickly scattered the extra tubes under the hood and, armed with a 10-mm socket, began to slowly unscrew the spark plugs, they were a little tight, but they came out almost without problems.
Candles stood Beru:

they look normal, a check showed that they are all functional, only some warmed up a little slower, well, okay, you can leave the old ones as a spare and install new Bosch ones.
I started to tighten 1,2, (3 didn’t get it, it went sour), 4... - and then there was a failure (they told me to read before use and use a torque wrench, but there wasn’t one), so I tighten the 4th spark plug, it slowly pulls and pulls, and then CLICK and free twisting:(. I turned the head of a new spark plug - they are so flimsy or my hands did not feel the tension.

Feeling upset, I went home in search of solutions on what to do next.
After reading a bunch of solutions, I found that before tightening the spark plugs it was necessary to clean the wells, remove slag from the threads, lubricate the threads with copper grease - s Screw the spark plug in by hand and tighten it to 15Nm. These are all my mistakes, I tightened them by hand and it’s unknown for how long, so the next day I took a torque wrench and thinner deep heads. The solution to the broken spark plug was to try to unscrew it by driving in a suitable TROX.
For now, it was decided to unscrew all the screwed-in spark plugs and install them correctly.
Unscrew and clean the thread

we run the thread

this is what stuck after the run

Next, we clean the well and make sure that everything is OK with it

Well, we already tighten the newly lubricated spark plug in place with a torque wrench set to 15Nm.

Based on the feeling of power, I initially turned the spark plugs to 50-60Nm.

Next, I started working on the broken spark plug to pull out the contact in the center. I had to take the first bolt I came across and make a threaded hole in it, then I put a washer and screwed the bot, the central electrode broke and I pulled it out.
I found a suitable TROX and hammered it into the base of the spark plug, all that was left was to unscrew it - a little effort... it didn’t work, a little more... CLICK and the TROX broke off :)
In DREMEL'em's attempts to sharpen a groove and unscrew it with a screwdriver or somehow get the spark plug, it all came down to

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Ford Focus Hatchback 1.8 Na Chipe › Logbook › Do-it-yourself heating of antifreeze with glow plugs. Review #1

Let me start with the fact that it works! In principle, this was the goal. And after reading the comments on my blog below, I realized that some people do not understand the full meaning of this idea. The point was to help the engine warm up faster and heat the cabin too. Everyone writes in color that you need EPVA. But guys, it's a stupid hair dryer! It does not help the engine warm up in any way. And on frosty days this is what is needed. Someone writes that this is a collective farm. Yes, a collective farm, but only in the water pipes themselves. Electrically, everything is from the factory and will be modernized. Such things are still installed on both diesel and gasoline. So it's up to you and only you to decide. I will say this: no one has canceled physics. But dry your hair with a hairdryer!
As for warm-up time: my trips are short, like most of us. work home. home-shop, etc.
This morning I went on business. Points from 1 km to 3 km. Usually during these short trips, and then only at the end of the route, the stove started to blow and the needle just came off 60 degrees. And here it’s another matter, warming up the car with the switch on. heater and having smoked one cigarette as usual, warm air was already coming out of the stove. Having reached Auchan, it was about 700-1000 meters, the blowing was no longer bad. The needle showed 70. After Auchan, several more of the same short points and as a result, I was already returning home to a very warm car. This has never happened before))) I’m glad. For the sake of experience, I’ll also change the thermostat (fortunately there are a lot of them in stock) and I’m thinking of starting with buying new spark plugs and more powerful ones. If it’s not enough, I’ll switch to 3 candles. Warmth and prudence to everyone!))) Haters and nerds in nah!

Standard heater. I think VAG

Looks like it's from a Ford. Also standard.

Mileage: 187500 km

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BMW 3 series Touring 330d Bun edition › Logbook › How to unscrew a glow plug without breaking it. My tips and recommendations!

Today I decided to share my experience in removing and replacing glow plugs on a diesel engine, in particular motors bmw m47n, m51, m57, m57n on which I have repeatedly changed spark plugs for myself and my acquaintances, friends and Drayvovites, or similar in design. Even Artem from Rrechitsa came and was pleased LINK
The post concerns diesel drivers)) but lighters can also gain some experience))
Spark plugs often turn sour from age, from soot, from the fact that they were installed last time without lubrication, or the holes were not cleaned. And when unscrewing it can break. I will share my experience, and below I will give a few interesting videos instructions not only for replacement, but also for drilling out broken pieces.

So, over my experience, I got used to doing this carefully with a few tricks.

1) The motor must be warm!, this is about 50+ or higher degrees, it’s better not hot, and I highly recommend not doing this in cold conditions (from practice and forums it breaks in cold conditions)
2) It is advisable to fill the spark plugs with a liquid such as WD40, wurth rust solvent, etc., a few hours or a day in advance, of course this is problematic to do if the spark plugs are under the manifold, but then we remove it, fill it and go do some related work. (10-15 min)
3) I don't use a torque wrench! because I have it built into my hand and I feel the moment of breakage and cutting of the threads, I have been tightening nuts for 17 years and during this time I have cut off threads mainly only if it did not go along it)))) (I use it for the cylinder head)
If you have a wrench, great, take it and set the torque corresponding to the thread diameter, it can be found on the Internet or according to the manufacturer’s instructions for a specific spark plug.

So, I take the 1/4″ socket and ratchet and try to unscrew it, smoothly and slowly apply counterclockwise force with a slight lever, feeling the force. If the candle goes - hurray, success, everyone relax, move on to the next one
If the candle doesn’t work, don’t pull any further, take the liquid again and pour it on the candle and wait again (move on to the next candles)

4) Now one more little trick! The head of the candle is for example 10 - then take the head 8 or 9, put it on the candle so that it rests on the hexagon of the body and quietly repeat quietly tap on the body of the spark plug to disconnect/break the diffusion of the spark plug and the body of the cylinder head and soot and other oxides
5) Next, we repeat the unscrewing procedure, and in most cases this is enough to rip off the candle! If this happens, then consider that you will get the candle! Then, as a rule, it goes with a creak)) We spill liquid from time to time, and also try unscrewing/screwing the candle, as if cutting a thread, one turn for unscrewing and half or a quarter for tightening. Carefully unscrew the candle.
6) Cleaning the thread, I use a rag wrapped around a screwdriver soaked in carburetor cleaner or solvent. Turning counterclockwise, we go outward, as if from the depths of the hole, pulling out the dirt. Also we clean the well itself and the candle landing cone, it is very important.
7) It is possible or even necessary update thread(I don’t recommend doing this often because you can

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Replacing glow plugs yourself

We have already written that glow plugs make it easier to start a diesel engine, and if they break down, it will not start or will “triple” and require support from the starter. Let's consider what troubles can await the owner when replacing these elements.

Why are glow plugs needed?

Glow plugs warm up the combustion cylinders from the inside, thereby facilitating ignition of the fuel mixture in a diesel engine. The operation of the spark plugs is controlled by a control unit and is powered by a voltage supply from a relay. The control unit regulates the time after which the relay transmits voltage to the spark plugs.

By and large, glow plugs - consumable item When servicing a diesel engine, it is recommended to change them every hundred thousand kilometers.

In our conditions, when the car is stored in the open air, started “cold” in winter and used for short distance urban travel, often with warming up while idling, it is recommended to change the glow plugs every 20-30 thousand kilometers, or once every one and a half to two years.

How to determine the need for replacement

Problems with glow plugs will be indicated by difficulties with cold starting of a diesel engine.

The performance of glow plugs can be checked in different ways. Simplest - test them with a multimeter by disconnecting the wiring from the central electrode in the spark plug socket (well) and measuring the resistance of the latter with a device.

Basic rules for replacing glow plugs

Choose original spark plugs from well-known manufacturers such as Bosch, Beru, Delphi. Poor quality ones will last a maximum of one season.
Select glow plugs depending on the engine type and in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
Change the entire set, even if some spark plugs seem to be working.

Typical problems when replacing spark plugs

Removing glow plugs that require replacement is a simple task only at first glance .

Correct dismantling

How easily and without consequences you can replace the spark plug depends on how it was installed.

But there is another important aspect - using the right tools.

If the spark plug cannot be removed even after reaching the maximum force, you should stop trying.

Installing a new spark plug

Before screwing new elements into the cylinder head, be sure to apply some ceramic grease on the thread and body of the spark plug. This will make it much easier to remove the worn-out element.

The second important point is that before installing the candle, carefully clean the threads and well from carbon deposits and deposits.

At the very moment of screwing, be careful with the force. Not tightening a new glow plug can cause more damage than screwing it in with more force than necessary.

If you exceed the recommended torque, you risk breaking the new spark plug.
If the applied force is not enough, gases will break into the spark plug well. The carbon deposits formed in this way will make it difficult to remove the element during a planned replacement.

We wrote about how to properly start a diesel engine in winter here.

Fuel injectors for diesel engines can be found in our catalog

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