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Why does the VAZ 2107 engine stall? The car starts and immediately stalls: causes and ways to solve the problem

In this article we will talk about such an unpleasant problem as engine stopping and poor starting. Let's look at the main reasons why the engine stalls idle speed and on the go. In addition, we will talk about why the engine does not start when hot, as well as options for solving each of the problems described above.

Common reasons why the idle stalls:

1. The most common one is the idle speed regulator (sensor), which is directly related to engine idle speed. It’s quite easy to check whether there is a breakdown. If the car does not start when you turn the starter, operate the gas pedal and the engine should start. If the revs start to fluctuate immediately after you take your foot off the pedal, there is a 99% chance that the reason is in the idle speed control. The solution is this will take VAZ owners a minimum of time.

2. The second probable reason why the engine stalls at Idling- problems with the throttle valve. The treatment for this problem is trivial.

3. If after cleaning the problem persists, we assume that the reason why the engine stalls at idle may be the TPS (position sensor throttle valve). The problem is solved by, the procedure is not complicated and can actually be done with your own hands.

There are often cases when the engine stalls while driving, as they say, out of the blue. The most probable and most common reasons why this may happen will be listed below.

The engine stops while running - reasons

1. Poor quality fuel is the first thing that comes to mind for most of us, and besides, this is where we need to start looking for the reason for the engine stopping while driving. You will be “lucky” if this happens immediately after refueling, in which case you can confidently say that the problem is in the fuel. It can be treated by draining the fuel and...

2. Candles. As a rule, suspicion most often falls on them, after bad fuel of course. Everything is simple here - unscrew the spark plugs and check their condition, if necessary.

3. Fuel filter. In order clogged filter can cause a fuel interruption, causing you to rev and the engine to stall while driving. To troubleshoot it is enough.

4. Air filter. Everything is the same as with the fuel, if it is clogged, then no air comes in, therefore the fuel-air mixture comes out over-enriched and the spark plugs simply flood. In addition, due to lack of air, the engine will choke, that is, the power will drop, and the combustion process of the mixture in the cylinders will not be able to take place, and eventually the engine will stall. To eliminate this problem, simply replace the air filter.

5. Faulty fuel pump - the second "suspect". If your fuel pump If not everything is in order, then the car will behave exactly like this, it will stall while driving or the engine will not start at all. The problem is solved by checking the pump, repairing it or.

6. Battery. Oxidation of the battery terminals or poor contact can cause the engine to stall. Check the terminals, clean them if necessary or replace the battery.

7. If the engine stalls while driving and no longer starts, the generator may also be the cause. A failed generator does not charge; as a result, the car’s on-board network is powered exclusively by the battery, and as we know, it will not last long. As a result, you, unaware that the car is running on the battery, continue driving until it is completely discharged. It is being treated - and.

6. In advanced cars, the reasons may also be with electronics and various sensors. If you are not good at this and all the above components and parts are normal, then it is better to turn to specialists, otherwise “at random” you can replace the floor of the car to no avail...

Why the engine stalls when hot, A well-warmed engine won't start?

1. The first possible reason is. During movement, a large amount of air passes through it, due to which the carburetor is seriously cooled, at the same time the fuel that passes through it is also cooled. As a result, the carburetor temperature is several times lower than the engine temperature. Because of this feature, problems arise; after a long journey, you turn off the engine and make a short stop, at which time the carburetor begins to get very hot from the hot engine body. The remaining gasoline in the float chamber begins to evaporate from the high temperature, filling the voids - the air filter, the intake manifold and the carburetor itself. Air pockets form, and not a drop of fuel remains in the float chamber.

The solution to the problem is quite simple - press the gas pedal halfway several times and try to start the engine. This will make the mixture leaner and release excess evaporation. It should be noted that problems with hot starting can also be due to a similar problem, only due to the fault of the fuel pump or fuel line. This usually happens in hot weather when air pockets form from evaporation in the fuel system or pump, preventing fuel from entering the carburetor.

2. Second possible reason strange behavior warm engine - problems with the starter. Make sure that when you try to start the engine, the starter turns and does not just click or not respond at all. If this is the case and one of the above options is confirmed. the starter needs to be checked. If you are on the road, then the check can be reduced to a basic check of the starter power wire or other visual operations. If you got home, make a detailed one. In case of malfunction or replacement.

3. Alternatively, the reason when the engine does not start when hot may be a dead battery due to the reason described above, when the generator did not charge and the battery was completely dead.

Well, it seems like you didn’t miss anything!? That's all for today, we hope the article will help, tell you the cause of the breakdown and help you solve your problem. If you know other reasons, as well as ways to solve them, you can supplement the article using the comment form. Thank you for your attention.

If your passenger car A VAZ-2107 malfunction occurs, as a result of which the engine stalls, then further movement becomes problematic. But finding the cause of this malfunction for the “Seven” injection engine is quite difficult without the presence of diagnostic equipment, since, unfortunately, there are many reasons why the crankshaft stops rotating.

Most often, an injection engine stalls in idle mode. The throttle assembly with the idle air control (IAC) may be involved in this malfunction, since during engine operation the throttle assembly can become very dirty, which leads to the IAC rod jamming. To check this assumption, you will have to remove it, and if there is contamination, carefully rinse it with a liquid that easily washes away oil mixed with dirt.

If your VAZ-2107 car has an alarm system that works with the electrical circuit of the fuel pump, the reason why the engine stalls may be poor quality work of those who installed it. If they did it with twists, then the poorly compressed twist weakens over time and as a result, contact is lost. As a result, the electric fuel pump stops working.

A possible reason why the engine stalls may be an over-enrichment of the combustible mixture. You can check this by unscrewing the spark plugs. If they are covered with black soot, then the mixture is rich. The amount of gasoline supplied to the engine cylinders depends on the position of the throttle valve and the correct reading of the temperature sensor, which is located on the left at the rear of the cylinder head. When replacing it, you will have to partially drain the antifreeze from the cooling system.

Failure of the mass air flow sensor (MAF) also leads to a strong enrichment of the mixture. You can check its condition using a multimeter. The measurement is made between the green and red wires (2nd and 4th terminals, counting from left to right) with the ignition on. If the voltage is more than 1.002 volts, it will have to be replaced.

If the fuel mixture becomes very lean, the engine will also stall. And its depletion occurs due to air leaks behind the throttle assembly. Possible places Air leaks usually occur in the intake system gaskets, either as a result of loosening of the fastenings of the parts between which they are located, or due to their breakdown. The place where air is leaking can be found using a smoker, which beekeepers use. Smoking them engine compartment, you will immediately see where the smoke is drawn in. And at decent stations Maintenance Instead of a smoker, they use a device called a smoke generator.

You should also pay attention to the vacuum brake booster, since air can be sucked into the engine cylinders through it. This happens due to a leaky diaphragm, which leads to a constant connection of the intake manifold to the atmosphere. Determining this malfunction is quite simple; to do this, you need to pinch the hose connecting the vacuum booster to the intake manifold. If the engine does not stall, then you will have to change the vacuum brake booster.

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helping-auto.ru

5 reasons why the VAZ-2107 stalls

Hello everyone, today I would like to talk about the reasons why your VAZ 2107 car stalls, and due to this unpleasant annoyance you can no longer continue driving on your iron horse. Today we will try to look at the main reasons why your engine stalls. Of course, unfortunately, there are quite a lot of such reasons. The first reason is problems with the idle air control (IAC) - usually the car stalls at idle. Rxx can fail due to contamination, and this leads to the rod jamming. To make sure, you need to remove the IAC from the seven and, if dirty, rinse thoroughly. It is advisable to use a liquid that washes away oil well.

The second reason why the VAZ 2107 stalls is the alarm system (if it is installed, of course). In most cases, the alarm system works with the electrical circuit of the fuel pump, but what does this have to do with it, you ask? And despite the fact that the unscrupulous mechanic who connected your alarm system could have done his job poorly, hence problems may follow. Moreover, if they did everything with twists, then over time it weakens, and everyone write letters, as they say. The power supply to the pump stops, as a result of which the VAZ 2107 does not start.

The third reason is that the fuel mixture is too rich. You can check this version by unscrewing the spark plugs; if the spark plug contacts are covered with black soot, this means that the mixture is too rich. The position of the throttle valve, as well as the readings of the temperature sensor, determine how much gasoline is supplied to the cylinders; on a VAZ 2107, this sensor is located on the left in the rear of the cylinder head. If there is a need to replace the temperature sensor, you will have to drain some of the antifreeze. Failure of the mass air flow sensor (MAF) on a VAZ 2107 also leads to an enrichment of the mixture. You can check the operation of the mass air flow sensor using a multimeter. If the voltage is more than 1.002 volts, it will have to be replaced.

The fourth reason is a severe depletion of the combustible mixture. As a result, your “Seven” will also stall. This is mainly due to air leaks. The main places for suction are the gaskets of the intake system, or loose fastenings in the places where they are located. To find air leaks, a smoke generator is usually used to see where the smoke is being drawn in.

And the fifth reason is the vacuum brake booster. Since air leaks can also pass through it. This happens due to a leaky diaphragm. You can determine a faulty vacuum seal on a VAZ 2107 by pinching the hose that connects the vacuum booster and the intake manifold; if the engine does not stall, then most likely you will have to change the vacuum seal.

Well, we’ve all looked at the main reasons why a VAZ-2107 car stalls, if you had other reasons, then write in the comments. Bye everyone.

www.tungrem.ru

VAZ 2107 carburetor does not idle

VAZ 2107 not best model among cars of its class, when compared with foreign equivalents. However, thanks to its low price and accessible service, the car has been popular throughout the post-Soviet territory for many years. The car was produced from 1982 until 2014. That is, the most old model is over 30 years old. During such a period of operation, the owner will be able to encounter all types of faults and investigate most of the causes of problems.

After several years of operation, the VAZ 2107, as well as the almost identical model 2105, begins to show a new character with changes not for the better. Malfunctions associated with the power unit and its body kit have different character, but symptomatic:

  • the engine stalls periodically;
  • does not maintain stable speed;
  • unstable operation at idle;
  • hard to start;
  • insufficient power;
  • increased consumption fuel.

All malfunctions appear for two reasons: violation of adjustments or wear of parts.

Unstable operation of the injection engine

Usually expressed in a spontaneous change in engine speed. Observed while driving and at idle. Most common cause If the speed of the VAZ2107/2105 injection units is too low, the reason for this is the failure of the mass air flow sensor (mass air flow sensor).

This device controls the amount of air entering the engine. Based on this data, the ECU regulates the supply of a combustible mixture with the optimal fuel-to-air ratio under different engine operating modes. Accordingly, in the absence of this balance, engine speed begins to depend on the amount of incoming oxygen. That is, the wind blew - the speed increased, the speed decreased.

It is quite simple to make sure that it is the mass air flow sensor that is faulty. Disconnect the device connector and the ECU will go to emergency mode work. In this mode, fuel supply is controlled by the throttle position. If the car begins to behave more adequately, then the MVR is faulty. You can drive like this, but the power will drop slightly and fuel consumption will increase.

A failed mass air flow sensor cannot be repaired, except for contamination, so you can try to clean it.

Cleaning algorithm for DMVR VAZ2107/2105:

  1. Remove the sensor along with the protective casing.

  1. Unscrew the two screws and pull the sensor out of the base without touching the surfaces of the active element (straight, bent wire).
  2. Wash the casing with any dishwashing liquid.
  3. Using a bottle of cleaner for DMVR or for carburetor, based on alcohols (without acetone), carefully clean the surfaces.
  4. Pour generously 3-4 times, the liquid should drain.
  5. Dry the device.
  6. Reassemble the block in reverse order.

If the problem persists, you will have to buy a new device.

Unstable operation of the carburetor engine

The nature of the unstable speed of the VAZ2107/2105 engine with carburetors is the same as that of an injection engine, in the uncontrolled supply of air or fuel into the combustion chamber.

But in this case, the carburetor is responsible for preparing the combustible mixture. This is a completely mechanical device that is responsible for the optimal ratio of fuel to oxygen for different operating modes power unit.

Despite the fact that there are filters at the fuel and air inlets, they may not work efficiently, usually due to a long service life exceeding that specified in the maintenance standards. As a result, the carburetor jets become clogged with small particles.

Drivers with great experience do not stand on ceremony, they throw the VAZ2107/2105 carburetor into a bucket of gasoline for a day, then blow it out from all sides with compressed air and the carburetor seems to work normally. This is a normal solution, but flammable. Among the causes of engine malfunctions that are caused by carburetor failure are:

  • displacement of the position of the adjusting screws due to shock or vibration;
  • increase in the diameter of the jet holes due to wear;
  • wear of the damper axis, limiting its travel;
  • clogging of jets;
  • failure of the float seal.

To determine the malfunction of the VAZ2107/2105 carburetor, and it will most likely be complex, start by checking the tightness of the float. To do this, remove it from the top carburetor cover (it needs to be removed). If there is gasoline in the float, throw away the float; if there is air, check in a bowl of water for bubbles. Let's say it passed the exam, then it is necessary to check the gap.

Lift the carburetor cover vertically. The gap between the float chamber and the carburetor wall should be 6.5 mm.

Install the carburetor cap and run the engine for 30 seconds. Remove the cover. The gasoline level should exactly coincide with the middle of the conical surface of the carburetor body. If this does not work, you should slightly bend the corner of the float rod.

Over time, air and fuel jets either become clogged or wear out. In the first case, they need to be cleaned and blown out. In the second case, you should check the throughput of the jets using a tank of water installed above the measured jet by 1 meter. They are connected by a tube. A volumetric flask is installed below. Measurements take place in units of cm3/min. Depending on the marking of the nozzle, the volume of liquid collected per minute in a volumetric flask should correspond.

It is much easier after 7-10 years of carburetor operation to buy a set of jets and replace them.

Those who use gas installations should know that a carburetor is not used when driving on gas. Over time, oxide forms inside dry jets, which clogs the fuel supply holes. A gasoline car may not start. It is recommended to use gasoline periodically.

Carburetor adjustment

Adjusting the carburetor involves several steps:

  1. Adjust the position of the float as described above.
  2. Check and set the “quality” and “quantity” screws to the initial state. Screw them all the way and unscrew them 2-3 turns for the “quality” screw and 3-4 for the “quantity” screw.
  3. Connect a tachometer or auto tester to the “K” terminal of the ignition coil, and the second probe to the housing.
  4. Start and warm up the engine to a temperature of 90°C

  1. Use the “quality” screw to set the maximum idle speed. The gasoline supply increases when the screw is rotated counterclockwise.
  2. Use the “quantity” screw to set the speed higher, approximately 80-90 rpm.
  3. Using the quality screw, we determine whether these speeds are maximum; if not, then we repeat the procedure.
  4. If the position of the quantity screw does not affect engine speed, tighten the quality screw so that the speed drops by 800-900 rpm.

This carburetor adjustment may not be entirely accurate, but does not require special equipment.

If the car stalls

An engine that suddenly stops not only creates an inconvenient driving experience, but also poses a safety hazard to the driver and passengers. There are several reasons.

Stalls at idle:

  • failure of the idle speed sensor;
  • failure of the throttle sensor;
  • failure of the throttle position sensor.

Stalls while driving:

  • interruption of fuel or air supply due to a dirty filter;
  • fuel pump malfunction;
  • clogged carburetor jets;
  • engine overheating.

When diagnosing a car whose engine stalls in the most unexpected places, it is better to start by checking the idle speed sensor.

It's easy to check its functionality. Dismantle the device without removing the contacts, or connect them after dismantling. Hold the device in your hands, place your finger on the cone needle and ask a friend to turn on the ignition. If you feel shocks, then install the device back. The idle speed sensor is OK.

If the throttle sensor fails, the car will not only stall, but also will not start, because the ECU will give a command for maximum fuel release, the spark plugs will flood and the engine will stall.

If you are on the road in a VAZ car and there is a problem with the throttle sensor, then it’s easier not to bother and contact the nearest service center, but if you make it to the garage, you can use the following instructions:

  1. Remove the sensor.
  2. Using a 2 mm drill, drill out the plastic cover in a circle.
  3. Remove the plastic pad from the top contact group.
  4. On the lower platform, clean the paths with WD-40 or alcohol.
  5. The same with the contact group of the top cover, but do not bend them, they will then eat the tracks prematurely.
  6. Reassemble in reverse order.
  7. Apply any plastic glue along the contour.

Not enough air

Often the car starts up well and runs on choke, but as soon as the choke is turned off, the engine stalls. This indicates only one thing - lack of air. Most likely the air jets are clogged. They need to be unscrewed and cleaned. Then check that the car should not stall without suction.

There are an incredible number of reasons for poor performance of car components with similar symptoms, but only a specialist with a set of professional diagnostic tools can figure them out. But if you feel confident in yourself, go for it, VAZ service centers are already waiting for you.

korchim.ru

Why does the idle speed jump on a VAZ 2107?

What to do if the idle speed of a VAZ 2107 jumps, is there any panacea for this? Causes owners a lot of trouble fuel system, but you need to take into account one feature - it is not always to blame. For example, in carburetor engines with classical system ignition, there is a high probability of breakage of the contact group if there is instability in the idle speed. But with injection engines everything is somewhat simpler. And now about everything in more detail.

Why is the engine speed unstable?

When it comes to the carburetor, there are several reasons:

  1. The carburetor is clogged, the movement of air and gasoline becomes impossible.
  2. The operation of the solenoid valve is disrupted - the winding is burned out or the nozzle is clogged.
  3. Fuel or air filters are clogged.
  4. Incorrect carburetor adjustments on VAZ 2107.

In most cases, the culprit is the solenoid valve. His appearance shown in the photo. It is necessary in the power system for the following purpose - it opens the fuel supply when the ignition is turned on and closes it when it is turned off. Consequently, the engine stops immediately after turning off the ignition.

The VAZ 2107 carburetor solenoid valve is a small device consisting of the following elements:

  1. Frame.
  2. Winding (one end connected to a metal body).
  3. A rod that acts as a valve that opens and closes the fuel supply at idle.
  4. Copper jet with holes. Please note that the jets are marked; there are several sizes.

The solenoid valve operates only when the ignition is on. If suddenly there is a break in the power circuit, you can temporarily connect the central wire of the device to the positive terminal of the battery. Just try to carry out repairs as soon as possible.

Preparing to adjust the idle speed

If you do not plan to clean and disassemble the VAZ 2107 carburetor, then one of the tools you will need is a screwdriver. The device for measuring the number of revolutions (tachometer) is installed in dashboard. But it’s worth getting a mixture quality indicator. With its help you can create an air-fuel mixture in ideal proportions. This article will talk about adjustment using this device.

Before starting work, you need to warm up the engine to operating temperature. Let us remember that this is a temperature of about 90 degrees. You also need to put the air purification filter in place to simulate normal engine operation. Make sure the float is adjusted correctly. The fuel level in the chamber must always be stable.

There are also many requirements for ignition and gas distribution. Be sure that all clearances must be correct, and the ignition timing must be adjusted for the gasoline used. And most importantly, open the air damper completely while making the adjustment. That's all, the preparation work is briefly summarized, now you can begin the idle adjustment procedure.

Setting the idle speed of the VAZ 2107

Carefully inspect the carburetor, there are several screws on it - the quality of the air-fuel mixture and quantity. It is with their help that we will now try to adjust the carburetor. Of course, not every driver has such a device as a gas analyzer. However, not everyone cares about the level of CO in the exhaust. For convenience, it is advisable to have a digital or dial tachometer. You can find how to connect it correctly in the corresponding article on our website.

So, start the engine and turn the quality screw. Listen to the engine, you need to stop at the moment when the crankshaft speed is at its maximum. After this, you begin to rotate the quantity screw and achieve a frequency of 1100. And the last step is to set the frequency to 800-900 using the quality screw. Please note that if necessary, the idle speed adjustment must be repeated.

Instead of a candle, screw in a mixture quality indicator and achieve the optimal color - violet-blue or blue. Adjusting the quality of the mixture using this device is simplified. True, you will need to turn the quality and quantity screw a few more times.

What about the injector?

Everything is a little simpler here, since no adjustments are needed. The reason is that a smart on-board control system is responsible for everything. And specifically for idling - the regulator (IAC). Some may call it an idle speed sensor, but this concept is completely wrong. The fact is that there are two types of devices on injection cars - sensors (reading) and actuators. The idle air control is stepper motor, it does not measure anything, but on the contrary, it opens and closes the air supply through a special channel.

A breakdown of the IAC can only be determined by external signs, and then only relatively. The fact is that the control lamp on the dashboard will not light up if the regulator suddenly fails. But if you feel unstable revolutions, or they have disappeared completely, and the engine jerks and stalls, then first of all, of course, it is worth checking the performance of the IAC. It is worth noting that sometimes the “Check” can light up when the IAC is faulty. This happens if the engine detonates. The knock sensor gives a signal about a malfunction electronic unit management.

IAC breakdowns

If you have a VAZ 2107 with an injection engine, then pay due attention to the condition of the vehicle systems. If the speed on an injection engine fluctuates, then you need to look first at the idle speed control. The fact is that the breakdown of such a mechanism as the IAC can lead to very sad consequences, including a traffic accident. Here are the main signs by which you can independently determine whether the regulator is broken:

  1. The engine begins to “live its own life” - the crankshaft rotation speed is constantly changing, sometimes decreasing, sometimes increasing. Consequently, the tachometer needle constantly floats.
  2. When you start a cold engine, the crankshaft speed does not increase, it fluctuates within a certain range.
  3. If you turn on powerful electrical appliances (for example, a car radio, low beam or high beam), the speed decreases and does not return to the set level.
  4. When you engage the neutral gear, the engine begins to stall if you do not apply the gas pedal from time to time.

These are the main signs that the regulator is faulty. In fact, any interruptions in the idle level are the first sign of a breakdown or minor defect in the IAC. But the time has come to diagnose it. It won't be difficult to do this.

Carrying out diagnostics

The simplest method is to measure the voltage at the block to which the regulator is connected. These are terminals D and A. When the ignition is turned on, a voltage of 12 V should be present on them. If the voltage is less than this value, it is worth looking at battery and a generator. It is quite possible that the battery is undercharged. In the same case, if there is no voltage at all, it is necessary to check the entire power circuit of the device and diagnose the ECU.

Set the multimeter to resistance measurement mode. Between pairs of terminals A and B, C and D, there should be a resistance of approximately 53 ohms. Remove the IAC and connect (with the ignition off) to the block. Then turn on the ignition and look at the behavior of the needle - it should extend completely when voltage is applied. If this does not happen, we can judge that the IAC is broken.

Sometimes simply cleaning the regulator helps. To do this, you can use sprays, of which there are sufficient quantities in stores. But in some cases, only replacing the device will help. Of course, this is not a DAAZ carburetor, the cost of the IAC will be many times lower, and there will be no problems with replacement. If, even after the replacement, the engine does not idle, it is necessary to fully diagnose the injector.

vaz-remzona.ru

Lost idle speed on injection engine, reasons

List of the main, most common reasons for the appearance of unstable idle speed or their complete disappearance on injection engines(2111) VAZ 21083, 21093, 21099 cars. All faults are grouped by engine systems: ignition system, power system, control system (ECM), engine itself. Most of them are easily determined using diagnostic equipment, but faults can be found without it.

Before identifying a malfunction, it is necessary to carry out visual inspection engine compartment (elements of the ignition system, sensors, tubes, hoses), checking the tightness of the contacts in the connecting blocks, tips high voltage wires in the ignition coil and spark plugs.

Causes of unstable idling of an injection engine related to the ignition system

Spark plugs are faulty

Faulty spark plugs: flooded after an unsuccessful start, the insulator is “broken,” the gap between the electrodes does not correspond to the norm (0.9 – 1.1 mm), the spark plugs do not match the engine’s heat rating. External signs: unstable idling, uneven exhaust from the muffler (periodic or frequent misfires). It is necessary to blow out the spark plugs: press the gas pedal all the way down and crank the engine with the starter for several seconds (the so-called purge mode). Having turned them out, evaluate the condition of the contacts, the presence and color of carbon deposits, and check the gap with a round feeler gauge. Non-working spark plugs are often clogged with carbon deposits or wet. But in some cases it is impossible to determine their malfunction visually, so the easiest way is to install a new kit and check the engine idling again.

- High-voltage wires are “broken”

External signs are similar to candlesticks. You can check the serviceability of the wires with a tester in ohmmeter mode. You can start the engine in the dark and observe the glow on the “broken” wires. In addition, it is necessary to visually verify the integrity of the wires and their tips, the absence of dirt and cracks on them.


measuring the resistance of high-voltage wires

Ignition coil (module) is faulty

First, we inspect the coil: check for cracks and damage. Then we check it with a tester in ohmmeter mode (See “Checking the ignition module”). We replace the one that does not pass the test with a serviceable one.

Malfunctions related to the engine control system (ECM)

The idle speed regulator (sensor) is faulty

The rod of a faulty regulator may not timely close the air supply channel necessary for engine operation at idle under the throttle valve. Signs of a faulty regulator, in addition to unstable idling: starting the engine by pressing the gas pedal, jerks and drops in speed when changing gears and coasting, “floating” speed, idling sometimes, sometimes not, drop in speed when powerful electrical consumers are turned on. At the same time, in other modes with the gas pedal pressed, the engine can operate normally without failures, jerking or jerking. The sensor can be checked with a tester or replaced with a known good one (by adjusting the protrusion of its needle).

Throttle position sensor (TPS) is faulty

A faulty TPS may provide the control unit with incorrect information about the throttle position. As a result, at idle speed the engine speed may increase greatly and be reluctant to decrease to normal or not decrease at all. The TPS can be checked with a tester or replaced with a working one.

Throttle valve does not close tightly

It is necessary to check the tightness of the air damper by removing the housing air filter. By pressing the gas pedal several times, check the smooth operation of the damper drive and its opening and closing. If there is carbon deposits in the throttle assembly that prevents the valve from closing tightly, remove it, for example, with carburetor cleaner.

Faulty coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH)

Based on the sensor readings, the control unit determines the amount and duration of injection, how far to move the IAC rod and open air access to the engine. If the DTOZH is faulty, then, for example, in cold weather the unit will not allow you to greatly enrich the mixture at start-up and at idle (the engine either will not start, or will start, but will “triple”). And in the heat, on the contrary, give rich mixture and the XX speed will go through the roof.

Speed ​​sensor (DS) is faulty

Signs: after stopping the car, the engine runs unevenly, then the speed stabilizes, the speed drops when changing gears and coasting.

The oxygen concentration sensor (OC) is faulty

The sensor's sensitive element may have failed (for example, due to the use of low-quality fuel, the use of inappropriate sealants during engine repairs), the heating coil has burned out, or the electrical circuit is faulty. The air intake hole in the sensor may be clogged (with dirt, anticorrosive). You can preliminarily check the sensor with a tester without dismantling it, but it is advisable to check for diagnostic equipment.

Reasons related to the engine of VAZ 21083, 21093, 21099 cars

- “Suction” of foreign air into the intake tract

Check the tightness of the hoses going to the throttle assembly and to the vacuum brake booster, and the fastening of the clamps. The vacuum hose can be pinched to prevent it from affecting engine operation.

Valve clearances not adjusted

Check and adjust the clearances in the valve mechanism using washers.

Camshaft cams are worn

Can be determined visually or by checking with a micrometer.

Disturbed valve timing

The timing belt has jumped a tooth or two. Or, during repairs, the marks on the pulleys are set with deviation.

Low compression in engine cylinders

The piston rings are worn out, broken or stuck, the valve is burnt out. The malfunction can be identified by measuring the compression in the engine cylinders.

The gear wheel has moved relative to the generator drive pulley.

As a result, the control pulse from the position sensor crankshaft comes at the wrong time.

Causes related to the power system (fuel supply system) and the fuel vapor recovery system

Fuel filter clogged

Replacement frequency fuel filter 30,000 km, but more often is possible, taking into account the quality of the fuel.

Low pressure in the supply system

The pressure regulator on the ramp may be faulty (the drain channel is constantly open), the fuel pump or the fuel lines may be damaged. A visual inspection and checking the pressure in the power system (2.5-3.5 bar) is necessary.

Injectors clogged

In this case, interruptions in engine operation are possible not only at idle, but also in other modes. Exhaust from the muffler with uneven frequent misfires. Possible increased speed XX due to their leakage.

The adsorber is faulty

First of all, check the tubes going to the adsorber.

Notes and additions

When the engine control system (ECM) sensors fail, the “Check Engine” light on the instrument panel lights up.

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ECM VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, Euro-2 standards

Throttle pipe (assembly) of the injection system of the injection engine of VAZ 2103, 2109, 21099 cars

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Hello everyone, today I would like to talk about the reasons why your VAZ 2107 car stalls, and due to this unpleasant annoyance you can no longer continue driving on your iron horse. Today we will try to look at the main reasons why your engine stalls. Of course, unfortunately, there are quite a lot of such reasons.
The first reason is problems with the idle air control (IAC) - usually the car stalls at idle. Rxx can fail due to contamination, and this leads to the rod jamming. To make sure, you need to remove the IAC from the seven and, if dirty, rinse thoroughly. It is advisable to use a liquid that washes away oil well.

The second reason why the VAZ 2107 stalls is the alarm system (if it is installed, of course). In most cases, the alarm system works with the electrical circuit of the fuel pump, but what does this have to do with it, you ask? And despite the fact that the unscrupulous mechanic who connected your alarm system could have done his job poorly, hence problems may follow. Moreover, if they did everything with twists, then over time it weakens, and everyone write letters, as they say. The power supply to the pump stops, as a result of which the VAZ 2107 does not start.


The third reason is that the fuel mixture is too rich. You can check this version by unscrewing the spark plugs; if the spark plug contacts are covered with black soot, this means that the mixture is too rich. The position of the throttle valve, as well as the readings of the temperature sensor, determine how much gasoline is supplied to the cylinders; on a VAZ 2107, this sensor is located on the left in the rear of the cylinder head. If there is a need to replace the temperature sensor, you will have to drain some of the antifreeze.
Failure of the mass air flow sensor (MAF) on a VAZ 2107 also leads to an enrichment of the mixture. You can check the operation of the mass air flow sensor using a multimeter. If the voltage is more than 1.002 volts, it will have to be replaced.


The fourth reason is a severe depletion of the combustible mixture. As a result, your “Seven” will also stall. This is mainly due to air leaks. The main places for suction are the gaskets of the intake system, or loose fastenings in the places where they are located. To find air leaks, a smoke generator is usually used to see where the smoke is being drawn in.

And the fifth reason is the vacuum brake booster. Since air leaks can also pass through it. This happens due to a leaky diaphragm. You can determine a faulty vacuum seal on a VAZ 2107 by pinching the hose that connects the vacuum booster and the intake manifold; if the engine does not stall, then most likely you will have to change the vacuum seal.

Well, we’ve all looked at the main reasons why a VAZ-2107 car stalls, if you had other reasons, then write in the comments. Bye everyone.

Owners of VAZ 2107, 2110, 2112, 2114, and other cars, may encounter a problem - the car starts and immediately stalls. The engine starts, but after a few seconds the speed drops and the engine stalls. Let's consider possible reasons startup malfunctions and ways to eliminate them.

First, you need to go through the most obvious options.

  • Gasoline (diesel fuel) has run out. No matter how paradoxical it may sound, drivers often forget to monitor the level of fuel in the tank.
  • On diesel engines(especially in winter) the reason that the car starts and stalls almost immediately can be frozen fuel.
  • The quality of gasoline at gas stations is often appalling, so if you fill your car with low-quality fuel, you may encounter the problem of a stalled engine. If bad gasoline a little, you can dilute it with good. But if the tank is full, then it’s better to drain the surrogate out of harm’s way.
  • Worn wires and old (faulty) spark plugs are also quite often the cause.
  • Engine compression, or rather its absence, can provoke a situation in which the engine stalls barely having time to “catch up”. But this is already quite serious damage, the appearance of which is accompanied by a host of other symptoms, which are simply impossible not to notice during the operation of the car.

The injector starts and stalls

Fuel-injected cars may behave this way due to a faulty fuel pump. It's in the tank. It is very easy to check its functionality. If you turn the ignition key to the first position and listen, you will hear the pump working, pumping gasoline into the system.

Severely dirty fuel filter fine cleaning can also cause the car to stall after starting. The filter simply does not have time to pass the required amount of gasoline.

ECU errors quite often lead to problems with starting the engine, not receiving signals from certain sensors, or receiving them in a distorted form. It is best to diagnose such breakdowns in specialized services.

Why do carburetor cars start and stall?

If the car starts and immediately stalls, the problem may be due to a lack of fuel in the float chamber. You can try manually pumping up the fuel pump. It must be checked for functionality and, if necessary, replaced.

Before you independently clean the power system in general and the carburetor in particular, you should remember that any unconscious manipulations can lead to a large increase in fuel consumption.

Another reason why the engine stalls is that the mesh filter in the carburetor in front of its inlet is clogged. If the car starts and stalls after a few seconds because of this filter, then it needs to be cleaned and washed. To do this, use a toothbrush and a solvent (gasoline or acetone). After this, immediately, together with the filter, clean the slot into which it is inserted.

It happens that in VAZ cars, a few seconds after starting, the speed drops due to a malfunction of the solenoid valve. The test is carried out as follows: the valve is unscrewed, power is supplied to the positive contact, and the housing is shorted to engine ground. If the valve is working properly, a distinct sound will be heard and the needle will enter the body.

You can simply connect a wire to the valve and put it in place. If you do not hear a click, the valve is faulty. We unscrew the valve and remove the jet from it. If it is bent, it needs to be replaced. Make sure that the valve shut-off needle moves freely, that the valve gasket is not torn and that it is sealed tightly against the body.

If the valve clicks, then you need to diagnose the EPH system. The idle fuel jet may need cleaning. If the car engine speed drops, its clogging can affect the stability of operation. To clean the nozzle, it is necessary to create increased vacuum in the system channels.

To do this, start the car and raise the speed to 3000. Turn out the jet holder (solenoid valve) a few turns. This allows you to create the required vacuum in the channels. We repeat the procedure several times.

Other reasons for incorrect starting of the VAZ 2107 engine

Another common problem that causes the engine of VAZ 2107 cars to start and stall is excess air getting into the carburetor. In this case, the fuel mixture cannot keep the engine running for a long time, and although the car starts, it stalls after a few seconds. It is necessary to determine the location of the air leak and eliminate the gap.

It happens that the jets and pipes of the dosing system become clogged. This also affects the drop in engine speed, so that the VAZ 2107 stalls after a few seconds. What to do in this case? You need to unscrew the jets and pipes under the carburetor cover and clean them. After this, blow out the wells and jets with compressed air. If you have a Solex carburetor, then you also need to clean and blow out the fuel jets located at the bottom of the wells.

Adjusting the fuel level in the float chamber (Solex carburetors)

In addition to all of the above, engine speed drops if the fuel level in the carburetor is incorrectly adjusted ( float chamber). As a result of this, in fuel mixture either there is not enough gasoline, or there is too much of it.

When adjusting the VAZ 2107 carburetor, it does not need to be disconnected from the engine. Follow these steps:

  1. remove the air filter housing by unscrewing all the fasteners;
  2. remove the carburetor cover;
  3. check the position of the floats. To do this, separate and bring them together to achieve the correct location.

It is necessary to achieve such a position of the floats so that they move freely without clinging to the walls of the chamber in which they are located. It will not be superfluous to measure the distance from the protrusions on the floats to the paper gasket. The distance should be within 0.75–1.25 mm. Use a feeler gauge to measure.

What to do if it is far from normal? In this case, you need to adjust the height of each of the floats.
As we have seen, there are many reasons why the engine stalls. To start the engine correctly, you need to check and eliminate all the above faults. Afterwards, if the problem is not resolved, you will have to contact specialists.

How to solve this problem? Get started cleaning the throttle valve, especially since you can do it yourself. The only caveat is that for high-quality cleaning you need to purchase a special composition in advance that allows you to efficiently blow out the injector and other components of the iron structure

Also inspect the oil trap; if it is clogged, it’s time to clean it. Otherwise, very soon the crankcase ventilation system will become clogged, and the engine will literally suffocate from excess gases, which means it will not be able to cope with idling.

If the engine stalls and then starts

Incorrect functioning of the car at idle is also possible if the firmware of the electronic control unit intended for the engine is installed incorrectly. This happens if a car enthusiast goes overboard with tuning the VAZ-2107. As a result of experiments vehicle gives excellent dynamics, but when the revolutions reach 1000 in 1 minute, the car is not able to maintain the pace, which is why it stalls.

Fortunately, this type of breakdown is rare, most often due to the instability of a number of sensors:

  • sensor responsible for mass air flow, also called mass air flow sensor;
  • a sensor that determines and helps adjust the position of the damper (abbreviated name - TPS);
  • car idle speed regulator, called IAC.

These sensors are practically irreparable. Therefore, all that can be done is to replace them with new ones; if you change them gradually, the procedure is inexpensive.

How to repair the idle speed control


In fact, the injector does not need to be adjusted, because the intelligent on-board control system is responsible for the operation of the machine. The idle speed regulator, built into the injector, is a mechanism that opens and closes the air flow again, and the air itself passes through a channel specially equipped for this.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to establish the exact breakdown of the idle air control (IAC) based on the readings on side panel, difficult - the fault signal will not light up. But what will immediately become apparent is the instability of the rotations or their complete disappearance. If there is a “Check” signal on the instrument panel of the VAZ-2107, it is quite possible that the IAC is to blame. This means that the engine is detonating, and this signal is transmitted to the control unit, which is powered by electronics.

How to diagnose a VAZ-2107 injector

Practice shows that if the injector stalls at idle, in 70% of cases the IAC is to blame, so we suggest learning how to diagnose:

  1. Measure the voltage at the block where the regulator operates. The normal voltage is 12 V. If the voltage is less, examine the battery wear and charge.
  2. If the voltage is completely absent, you should check the entire power circuit of the mechanism and then start diagnosing the computer.
  3. When the multimeter, switched to resistance mode, shows a value other than 53 ohms between pairs of terminals, disconnect the IAC and turn the ignition on. If the needle is immobilized, it means that the idle speed sensor is broken.

How to repair an injector in a VAZ-2107


If replacing the sensors does not produce results, it is better to go to a service station. Banal lack of tightness intake manifold provokes the appearance of the same problem when the car stalls at idle.

With your own hands, inspect the vacuum hoses, gaskets, injector sealing rings, and then the plugs that are located in the manifold, and the vacuum brake pedal booster. It is easy to detect air leaks using a special unit called a smoke generator. Do not ignore checking the gasoline pressure.