Rack

Knocks out 2nd 5th gear on a VAZ 2107. Why speeds go out on a manual transmission

02.02.2021

The VAZ 2107 is not scolded except by the lazy. However, there are fewer complaints about its gearbox.

The most important disadvantage of the VAZ 2107 gearbox is its noise. We will look at the reasons for this phenomenon below. I would just like to say: no matter what you do, no matter what new parts you install, the noise will constantly return (with rare exceptions).

Many owners are accustomed to this and do not pay attention to the noise. They keep driving until the gearbox needs major repairs.

The VAZ 2107 was equipped with one of two types of gearbox: 4 and 5 speed.

Which model should you choose? See for yourself. If you constantly move in dense traffic flow, that is, not at high speeds, then you don’t need a lot of gears. Therefore in this case VAZ will do 2107 with a 4-speed gearbox.

If the situation is different: you will be moving along roads where there are no special obstacles for movement, then a five-speed will be just right for you.

  • what malfunctions may occur;
  • why they happen;
  • how to eliminate them.

VAZ 2107 gearbox malfunctions

1. Let's start with the noise mentioned above.

It can be generated by:

a) bearings, worn gears or synchronizers - in this case, the situation can only be corrected by replacing faulty parts.

b) axial movement of the shafts - in this case, it is necessary to replace the parts that hold the bearings in place, or the bearings themselves (depending on what causes the displacement).

The box may also make noise due to the fact that there is little oil in it. It is clear that the oil will need to be added. But first, find the reason why the oil level has dropped and eliminate it.

2. Gears are difficult to engage.

  • The spherical joint of the gear shift lever is stuck - you need to clean the entire surface of the joint that is in contact with other parts.
  • The gearshift lever or forks are deformed - you can try to straighten them, but it is better to buy new ones.
  • the fork rods or the sliding clutch move tightly - carefully inspect the unit, clean the parts and replace the faulty ones.

3. The transmission gets knocked out when moving.

  • worn balls and rod sockets, locking rings, coupling or synchronizer ring gear;
  • the clamp springs are no longer elastic;
  • The synchronizer spring is broken.

In all cases, you can get rid of the problem by replacing the faulty parts.

4. Oil leaks.

a) The oil seals of the primary and secondary shafts have served their purpose - they need to be replaced.

b) The crankcase cover fastenings are loose - tighten them.

c) The sealing gasket is damaged - replace it.

How to fill oil in a VAZ 2107 gearbox in a garage

There is one more inconvenience. It occurs when it is necessary to change the oil. It’s not difficult to drain it, but it’s a little difficult to fill it up. The filler neck is on the side and is difficult to reach.

Car service centers have special equipment for filling oil. But if you always change the oil yourself, then it is not profitable for you to purchase it.

And it’s not necessary, because you can do it like this:

  • pour oil into the eggplant;
  • find a hose a little more than a meter long (preferably it should be of medium hardness);
  • using electrical tape, tape or something similar, secure it to the neck of the eggplant;
  • Bend the free end and secure it with wire so that the oil does not spill out;
  • open the hood and on the left side of the engine (if you are facing the car) insert the hose into the box;
  • as soon as you insert it, rest the eggplant on the motor and use a nail or awl to make a small hole in its bottom so that the oil flows by gravity;
  • then you go down and stick the hose into the filler hole.

All the oil will begin to flow into the VAZ 2107 gearbox housing. If you want to speed up this process, then close the hole at the bottom of the bottle with your finger, press and unclench it.

If you have 4 step box, then you need to fill 1.25 liters. If it is 5-speed, then different sources write in their own way - from 1.6 to 2.2 liters. We think you can’t go wrong if you stick to the rule of the golden mean - that is, fill in about 1.9 liters.

VAZ 2107 is a model considered a classic of the automotive industry in our country. And although the production of 2107 was completely stopped in the early 2000s, many car enthusiasts use this particular car for their personal needs. The popularity of the machine consists of several factors, the first of which can be called the simplicity of the design. However, not all mechanisms are easy to diagnose and repair; One of the most complex components in a car design is the gearbox.

When and how often do you need to repair the gearbox on a VAZ 2107?

Manufacturer of the "seven" (Volzhsky automobile plant") provides comprehensive information on when and how often the gearbox needs to be repaired. It turns out that this mechanism does not have a service life as such. The only thing AvtoVAZ engineers insist on is timely replacement transmission oil:

  1. After the first 2 thousand kilometers on a new car.
  2. After 60 thousand kilometers.
  3. Further, as necessary, depending on the care of the owner and the frequency of use of the car.

Accordingly, the plant does not have any specific wishes or requirements for preventive or repair work. However, in any case, regardless of the mileage, it is necessary to carefully monitor all the nuances in the “behavior” of the box, since repairs will be necessary if the slightest malfunction occurs.

Box faults

The design of the “Seven” gearbox is designed for many years of service. Usually the driver carries out the first and even the second major overhaul of the engine, and only after that does the need to repair the gearbox arise.

In addition, the “seven” itself, throughout its long history, has acquired the reputation of “ workhorse" The machine really serves faithfully for many years, but this does not mean that each of its mechanisms will not wear out over time.

If we talk about malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 gearbox, then most often drivers complain about three defects: the inability to engage the desired gear while driving, the gear being knocked out and a strong crunch in the box.

The transmission does not start

Very difficult to manage vehicle, if the driver cannot change gear. On the one hand, the shift lever moves to the desired position, but, on the other hand, switching as such does not occur. Or the lever cannot be set at all to the desired speed switching position.

In any case, the problem lies precisely in the box:

  • Some of the moving (hinge) elements of the shafts are very worn out - it is recommended to carry out a major overhaul of the gearbox;
  • wear of the blocking rings on the synchronizer - replace the rings with new ones;
  • the synchronizer spring is stretched or broken - replace the spring;
  • severe wear of the gear splines - only a complete replacement of the gear will help.

Knocks out gear when driving

Another common problem with the gearbox is the transmission slipping out of gear immediately after turning it on. The lever simply throws back, and the motor begins to experience overloads, since when high speed he does not receive the required distribution number.

The malfunction may be associated with different elements of the box:

  • jamming of the hinge on the gear shift lever - it is necessary to remove the lever skirt, clean all connections and lubricate them;
  • breakage of the lever - it is impractical to carry out repairs; it is easier to immediately replace the lever with a new one;
  • the clutch does not work correctly - in this case, the entire blame cannot be placed on the box; it is quite possible that after adjusting the main elements of the clutch, the gear will not be knocked out;
  • The forks in the box are bent - it is recommended to replace the entire set of forks.

Crunching and grinding in the box while driving

The driver may not experience problems with shifting gears, but while driving, hear a loud knocking, crunching and grinding sound in the gearbox cavity:

  • the bearings on the shafts are broken - replacement is recommended;
  • The gear splines are badly worn - the entire gear needs to be replaced;
  • minimum oil level in the cavity of the box - you need to add lubricant and make sure that there is no leak;
  • failure of the shafts (they began to move along another axis) - replacement of bearings on both shafts.

It should be emphasized that some types of work with the gearbox are available to the driver himself. It won't be difficult to knock the old bearing out of the shaft and press the new one in. If it concerns overhaul boxes, it is better to turn to professionals.

How to repair a gearbox on a VAZ 2107

The “old” model VAZ was equipped with a four-speed gearbox, and the “new” model VAZ was equipped with a five-speed gearbox. However, working with both mechanisms is not much different from each other. The essence repair work consists of performing the following steps:

  1. Removing the box from the car.
  2. Disassembling the gearbox into its component parts.
  3. Replacement of failed elements with new ones.
  4. Assembling the box.
  5. Installation of a gearbox on a car.

It should be noted that repairs should only begin when obvious signs box malfunction. As a preventive measure, it makes no sense to interfere with the structure of this mechanism again.

Preparing tools

To carry out all of the above work, you will need to prepare in advance:

  • heads for 13 and 17;
  • extension to the heads;
  • Phillips screwdriver;
  • flat screwdriver with a thin blade;
  • flat screwdriver with a powerful flat blade;
  • impact screwdriver;
  • tweezers;
  • wrenches 13 (2 pcs), 10, 17, 19 and 27;
  • circlip puller (or pliers);
  • hammer.

How to remove the gearbox

The box can only be repaired after it has been removed from the car, so you will need to be patient and time-consuming. Repairing a gearbox is clearly a difficult and slow task.

To remove the box from a VAZ 2107, you will need to drive the car into a pit or observation deck. The jacking option will not work, since it will be impossible to complete all stages of the work:

  1. Remove the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.
  2. The first stage of work is carried out directly from the salon. For convenience, it is necessary to remove the panel in which the radio is located.
  3. Press the gear shift lever and insert a flat-head screwdriver into the hole in the gearbox locking sleeve.
  4. Using a screwdriver, pull the bushing towards you.
  5. Disconnect the rod from the gear shift lever.
  6. Use tweezers to hook the edge of the damper insert and remove it.
  7. Using two flat screwdrivers, press apart the petals of the damper insert and move them apart.
  8. Then remove the damper and bushings from the gear lever.
  9. In the cabin, move the foot mat near the gearbox.
  10. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the four screws on the box lid.
  11. Remove the cover from the gear shift lever.
  12. The second stage of work is carried out directly under the car. First of all, the pipe is dismantled exhaust manifold from the box.
  13. Disconnect the clutch mechanism.
  14. Immediately remove all connections from the gearbox (at the same time, you can check the integrity of the wires).
  15. Disconnect the cardan drive.
  16. Remove the flexible shaft mounting mechanism from the speedometer.
  17. Unscrew the two bolt connections on the side cover of the gearbox.
  18. Remove the box from the car.
  19. Place something strong and stable under the body of the box, as it may fall out.

Video: dismantling instructions

Attention! The gearbox on the VAZ 2107 weighs 23 kilograms (including oil), so it is recommended that it be dismantled by two people.

How to properly disassemble the box

Repair work on the gearbox is possible only after identifying the real cause of the breakdown. Therefore, it will be necessary to disassemble the device correctly and safely for each component of the box and perform troubleshooting.

To ensure the disassembly process goes quickly and without interference, it is recommended to immediately prepare the following tools:

  • impact screwdriver;
  • wrench 10;
  • socket wrench 13;
  • three-jaw puller;
  • vice;
  • tweezers;
  • torque wrench.

Of course, as necessary, gaskets, oil seals, and those parts that were discarded during the work will be needed.

Operating procedure

Disassemble the box yourself garage conditions- the task is quite feasible. However, the work will require maximum concentration and attention:

  1. After removing the gearbox from the car, it is recommended to wash the housing from dirt. You can even use kerosene or white spirit to ensure the surface of the box is clean.
  2. Remove the bell (casing).
  3. Turn the box over and unscrew the cover bolts.
  4. Remove the gear block plug from the rear cover.
  5. Pull out the retaining ring with tweezers.
  6. Press out the gear block bearing.
  7. Press out the gear bearing reverse.
  8. Remove the secondary shaft oil seal.
  9. Pull out the thrust washer from the rear bearing of the secondary shaft.
  10. Press out this bearing.
  11. Remove the speedometer drive gear and pull out the roller ball (clamp) behind it.
  12. Remove the gear fork mounting bolt.
  13. Block the shafts by inserting a thick bolt or a powerful screwdriver between them.
  14. While turning the input shaft, pull it towards you along with the gears and bearings.
  15. Then pull out the secondary shaft.
  16. The intermediate shaft comes out easily.

Video: instructions for disassembling the gearbox on a VAZ classic

Replacing bearings

Most often, problems with the gearbox begin with the bearings breaking. Therefore, the bulk of all breakdowns lead to the driver needing to disassemble the gearbox and change the bearings.

Bearings cannot be repaired, since their design does not allow replacement of parts (rollers). Therefore, if the product fails, it is completely replaced.

Main shaft bearing

To change the input shaft bearing, you need to have the same tools as when disassembling the gearbox. The work is not difficult, but it can take a lot of time (depending on the physical fitness of the performer and his skill).

The operating procedure is as follows:

  1. Clamp the input shaft with a vice. It is better to line the jaws of the vice with a soft cloth so that they do not deform the surface of the shaft.
  2. Use a puller to clamp the bearing and begin to slowly pull it off the shaft.
  3. Periodically you need to tap the bearing with a hammer and rotate the shaft between hits, otherwise misalignment may occur in the rollers and it will be very difficult to remove the bearing.
  4. Gradual knocking out will cause the bearing to jump off the shaft.
  5. Press onto the shaft new bearing using the same method.
  6. It is important to hit only the inner ring of the bearing with a hammer and do it carefully.

The input shaft bearing can be replaced on an unassembled box using the same method. Only in this case it will be impossible to use a vice.

Video: replacement instructions

Secondary shaft bearing

Replacing the secondary shaft bearing is carried out according to the same principle as the primary one. The only difference is that different shafts use different types bearings.

According to GOST, closed (6–180502K1US9) and open (6–50706AU) type bearings are used to equip the input shaft of the VAZ 2107 gearbox. An open type bearing (2107–1701033) is used to equip the secondary shaft.

Replacing oil seals

Most often, gaskets and seals are subject to wear. And if the gasket can be changed even by an inexperienced driver, then the replacement of oil seals should be treated with the utmost care.

By its design, the oil seal is a rubber gasket that performs the functions of a sealant. That is, if the oil seal breaks or wears out, the box ceases to be sealed, which, in turn, leads to oil leaks and breakdowns.

The oil seal in the VAZ 2107 gearbox is not made of rubber alloys, as most drivers think. In fact, the product is made of special composite materials, which are much more durable than rubber and less susceptible to tearing. In its working condition (that is, constantly), the oil seal is in the transmission oil, so its elasticity remains for a very long time.

In order to restore the tightness of the gearbox, you will need to change this gasket. To work you will need:

  • new oil seal from the same manufacturer;
  • spanners;
  • hammer;
  • screwdriver with a flat thin blade;
  • sealant.

Input shaft oil seal

The VAZ 2107 gearbox input shaft oil seal has the following performance characteristics:

  • weight - 0.020 kg;
  • dimensions - 28x47x8 mm;
  • location - on the input shaft in the clutch housing.

Accordingly, in order to replace the gearbox input shaft oil seal, you will need to remove the gearbox from the car and disassemble the casing:

  1. Remove the bell (casing) from the box; it is secured with four bolts.
  2. Remove the fork and release bearing from the box (the fork is secured with screws, the bearing will have to either be knocked out with a hammer or pressed out with a vice).
  3. Access to the input shaft and its oil seal is provided.
  4. Using the blade of a knife or screwdriver, pry up the old ring and remove it from the shaft.
  5. It is good to clean the seal area from dust and dirt.
  6. Install a new oil seal.
  7. Reassemble the gearbox in reverse order.

The bell can be easily removed, as it is attached with only 4 bolts. It is important to very carefully pick up the oil seal without scratching adjacent surfaces. Even if the old oil seal does not have cracks or deformations, when disassembling the gearbox, it still needs to be replaced with a new one.

The work of replacing the input shaft oil seal is not particularly hassle.

Secondary shaft oil seal

The secondary shaft oil seal differs slightly in its characteristics from the input shaft gasket:

  • weight - 0.028 kg;
  • dimensions - 55x55x10 mm;
  • operating temperature range - from -45 to +130 degrees;
  • location - on the secondary shaft at the flange junction.

The oil seal is replaced with the gearbox removed:

  1. The first step is to firmly fix the flange of the box; you can insert a bolt or a thick screwdriver into it.
  2. Turn the flange fastening nut with a wrench.
  3. Using a screwdriver, pry up the centering metal ring and pull it out from the secondary shaft.
  4. Remove the bolt from the hole.
  5. Place the puller against the end of the secondary shaft.
  6. Remove the flange along with the washer.
  7. Using screwdrivers or pliers, remove the old oil seal from the box.
  8. Clean the joint and install a new oil seal.

Thus, replacing the secondary shaft oil seal is somewhat more difficult than doing the same job on the input shaft. The difference is due to the location of the seals and their dimensions.

Photo gallery: main stages of work

For work, you need to choose the thickest and most powerful screwdriver or bolt so that they do not bend The flange can only be removed using a puller The landing site must be cleaned of dust and dirt

How to replace gears and synchronizers

The gearbox on the VAZ 2107 is a complex device. Therefore, if you do not have confidence in your abilities, it is better not to start replacing gears, but to turn to specialists for this service.

However, if you decide to replace worn out gears and synchronizers yourself, you will need to prepare in advance necessary tools and buy a repair kit for replacement.

The standard repair kit for gearbox shafts 2107 usually includes gears, synchronizers, washers, a pin, nuts and bolts.

To work you will need:

  • vice;
  • puller;
  • screwdriver with a thin flat blade;

Replacing gears and synchronizers on the primary, secondary or intermediate shafts is generally carried out according to the same scheme:

  1. Remove the shaft from the box.
  2. Clamp the shaft in a vice (it is important to wrap the jaws of the vice with a soft cloth so that they do not damage the surface of the shaft during operation).
  3. Use a screwdriver to pry up the shaft retaining ring and remove it.
  4. Press out all bearings.
  5. Unclench the vice and rest the first gear on two supports.
  6. Compress the gear by gently hitting it with a hammer.
  7. Perform the same actions for all subsequent gears and synchronizers.

Video: instructions for removing gears from the shaft

During operation, it is necessary to carefully inspect the shaft. Between the gears there may be clamps, retaining rings and other small parts. They must be removed without fail, otherwise it will be impossible to remove the gear.

Accordingly, the installation of new elements occurs in the reverse order.

Thus, repairing a gearbox on a VAZ 2107 cannot be called a simple task. The driver needs not only to exert maximum physical effort, but also to act extremely carefully so as not to damage the shaft and its elements. If you are unsure of your abilities, it is better to contact a car service specialist.

Any gearbox has a complex structure with many interconnected parts, and the failure of even one part immediately affects the performance of the gearbox as a whole.

So often the cause of a gearbox malfunction is such a breakdown as one of the speeds being knocked out.

In this article, we will look at the main reasons for the question of why transmissions fail.

In order to make it easier to understand the reason for knocking out a certain speed, you need to briefly consider the principle of operation of the gearbox.

How does a manual transmission work?

Regular manual transmission The gear shifter consists of 3 shafts. These are the primary, intermediate and secondary shafts. The secondary shaft is located coaxially with the primary shaft, inside which there is a bearing into which the end of the secondary shaft fits, allowing it to rotate independently of the primary.

The intermediate shaft is a single unit with gears cast on it. It has a rigid connection through a gear to the input shaft, which causes it to rotate along with the gears of the gears.

When the gearshift knob is in neutral and the clutch pedal is not depressed, the input and intermediate shafts rotate.

On the secondary shaft of the gearbox there are gear blocks, 1st and 2nd, as well as 3rd and 4th, 5th gear and reverse gear are usually located in the rear compartment of the gearbox housing.

The blocks, in turn, consist of a hub, a gearshift clutch and 2 synchronizers. The hub has splines inside, the same as on the secondary shaft, thanks to which it can move forward or backward, depending on the gear engaged.

The couplings have a groove on top where the gear shift fork is installed. The fork itself is rigidly mounted on a slider, which is mechanically connected to the gear shift knob. The slider has three recesses into which a spring-loaded ball fits to fix the slider either in the neutral position or in the position of one of the speeds for which it is responsible.

As mentioned above, the secondary shaft also contains gears 1.2.3 and 4, which are in constant engagement with the gears on the intermediate shaft. The gears have a loose fit on the output shaft and rotate around the shaft without engaging with it.

When any of the speeds is turned on, the hub with the clutch on it moves along the shaft splines towards a freely rotating gear, for example, 1st gear and, thanks to the synchronizer, blocks it, forcing the secondary shaft to rotate.

The secondary shaft is rigidly connected to the drive to the drive wheels; this can be a cardan on a rear-wheel drive car, or a CV joint in a front-wheel drive version. The rotation of the shaft is transmitted to the drive, which in turn drives the drive wheels, causing the car to move.

Reasons for speed loss:

Worn or broken synchronizer blocking ring;

Worn shift fork;

Loosening of the gearbox fastening to the clutch housing;

Wear on the clutch or gear teeth of one of the gears;

Loosening the secondary shaft shank nut;

Wear of the blocking nuts of the sliders or grooves in the body of the slider;

Breakage of the springs of the slider fixing balls;

Wear of the input shaft gear;

Misalignment of the gear shift link in the slider drive.

When the driven shaft shank nut is loosened, the shaft gains freedom of axial movement, and the clutch may disengage with the speed gear ring and be knocked out.

A similar effect can be observed when the “legs” of the power fork wear out. When the fork wears out, it becomes free to move in the coupling groove, which also leads to the gear being knocked out.

Loosening of the shank nut and the appearance of play in the gearbox leads to accelerated wear of the teeth of both the couplings themselves and the teeth of gears and synchronizers. All this is caused by the inclusion of speeds with an impact due to the large stroke of the blocks on the shaft, which causes one of the speeds to be knocked out (usually the 4th).

Knockout of a gear or the inability to engage it is caused by wear or breakage of the synchronizer ring.

When the fastening of the gearbox handle drive shaft with the gearbox slider is loosened, the gear is not engaged, which also leads to one of the speeds being knocked out.

Rapid wear of gearbox elements is facilitated by a sharp start of the car with the clutch thrown, acceleration at full throttle and a sharp stop, plus incomplete engagement of the gear due to a worn or unadjusted clutch.

The wear of the gearbox also contributes to dirty oil or him insufficient level, which is especially dangerous if there is a 5th gear, which, as a rule, is starved of oil and quickly fails. Dirty oil or a lack of it will also shorten the life of the gearbox shaft bearings.

Dirty ones are especially critical for automatic transmissions, where sometimes a simple oil and filter change helps get rid of the problem of gear slippage. In particularly advanced cases, it is necessary to clean or replace the hydraulic plate and solenoids; this will help if the mechanical part of the gearbox is in working order.

To monitor the gearbox and extend its service life, it is recommended to periodically check the tightness of the gearbox shank nut, the reliability of fastening the gearbox to the clutch housing, and the fastening of the gearbox mount (traverse). It is also necessary to check the condition and level of transmission oil and top it up or if necessary.