Why the speed on the VAZ 2112 turns on. Why the speeds do not turn on when the engine is started

As with any car, there is also a gear shift mechanism on the VAZ 2110. The VAZ box is a five-speed one, it is switched on by a lever located in the passenger compartment.

In order to be able to fix the problems on your own, you need to understand a little how exactly the switching mechanism works, due to which there are cases when some speed is turned off or crashes. And also know how to fix it on your own.

Gear knob

Gearbox layout

The gearbox device is as follows:

to ensure gear shifting in the gearbox is the input shaft, consisting of a block of gears. They constantly engage with the driving gears from the first to the fifth speed (that is, those that are focused on driving forward);
the secondary shaft is equipped with a leading gear of the main gear, on it also are synchronization gears, which provide for forward movement of driven gears. There are also bearings plus an oil pan;
the VAZovsky two-differential differential, with the main gear driven gear attached to the flange of its box;
the gearbox drive consists of a gearshift knob, ball bearing, selector rod, traction, gear selection mechanisms, as well as gearshift;
jet thrust is designed to protect the gearbox from the fact that the transmission flies. She ends attached to the support and power unit.

Gear Shift Drive Diagram

How speeds are chosen

A separate important gearbox assembly is the gear selection mechanism. It has a special speed selection lever, as well as two brackets for locking. One shoulder of the selection lever turns forward, the second serves to engage the rear.

Adjustment

On the VAZ 2110, cases are not so rare when the gears turn on poorly or knock them out. Especially for this, a speed selection drive adjustment mechanism is provided.

Adjustment may be necessary if:

the box was recently removed for repair;
one of the gears crashes;
speeds turn on poorly or simply knock them out when the car is moving.

If you have one of these problems, try adjusting to get started. Her sequence:

Under the bottom of the VAZ 2110, find and slightly loosen the nut on the bolt tightening the clamp that secures the rod designed to control the gearbox;
Slightly push the grooves of the end of the rod with a screwdriver and the gap formed on the clamp itself. This is necessary to ensure easy movement of traction in relation to the gear selection rod. Put the stock in a neutral position;
Release in the cabin the shift knob from the cover;
Set the lever according to the special template. This is done as follows: in the window of the overlay of the rear speed locking bracket, install the template. After that, enter the focus of the lever axis into the groove of the template, pressing it without unnecessary effort in the transverse direction;
Then adjust the axial backlash of the rod in the rear direction, and its axial backlash by turning to the left;
Install the clamp without reaching a few millimeters to the end of the thrust. Then carefully tighten the clamp with a bolt.

Repairs

If the described adjustment did not help you, you need to remove and disassemble the VAZ 2110 gearbox. Special attention Pay attention to the fact that it often knocks out the gears with which the first and second speeds are turned on. Remember to check each latch.

They are made in the form of springs, there are three of them. The first latch is long, it is responsible for the first and second gears. The second is medium, for the third and fourth gears. For the fifth, the shortest lock is used.

CAT diseases

Often there is a complaint from the owners of the VAZ 2110 that the first speed starts up with difficulty or crashes.

Possible reasons:

the synchronizer is often guilty;
perhaps the spring of the retainer burst, the lever dangles, the speeds turn on as they want;
replacement may be necessary for the stem and plug.

Another complaint is that the second transmission does not turn on well, it is often knocked out.

Here you can suspect the main culprits:

the second one flies out most often because the gear teeth do not mesh well with the clutch, which speeds are engaged;
the tips of the gear teeth and the clutch have already worn out, so the speed does not turn on well. If you do not intervene, it will soon fly out;
as an option, when it knocks out on the bumps - the clutch dies.

Sometimes (though rarely) from the fact that the second one turns on not well enough and crashes, replacing the fixing spring helps. If the speeds often fly out, some of them turn on with difficulty, which means that half measures will no longer help - you need a box overhaul.

You will conduct it yourself, or go to a service where they will repair you, as well as adjust the gearshift mechanism, decide on your own, based on your own experience and skill.

One of the most common used on cars, including the VAZ brand, is mechanical. Although many modern cars already include automatic device gear shifting. But do not refuse to use.

After all, VAZ, like any other brand of car, is very reliable, unpretentious and requires a minimum of maintenance. She is able to withstand significant loads without any harm to herself. Proof of this is the frequent use of this type of gearboxes on cars involved in various competitions.

But no matter how reliable and simple the “mechanics” is, troubles also happen to it. One of such malfunctions - the first and reverse gears are poorly engaged. Moreover, foreign cars are no exception.

But in order to understand why the first gear does not turn on properly, you need to disassemble the design at the beginning of this type PPC.

Transmission device

So, the gearbox layout is quite simple.

There is a housing attached to the clutch housing. In this case there are three shafts - drive, driven and intermediate. The peculiarity of the location of the shafts is such that the driving and driven shafts are on the same axis, and at one end the driven shaft enters the drive shaft. Below them is an intermediate shaft.

On each of the shafts there are gears of different diameters and with a different number of teeth, while some of these gears mounted on the driven shaft can move along it.

Principle of operation

The working scheme of the gearbox is as follows. The drive shaft receives rotation from the clutch disc and transfers it to the intermediate. If neutral speed is enabled on the box, there is no gearing of the intermediate shaft gears with the follower, the car is immobilized, since rotation is not transmitted.

When a gear is engaged, the driver engages the gear of the driven element with a certain intermediate gear. And the rotation begins to be transmitted from the driven shaft to the wheels. Auto starts to move.

The necessary gears are put into engagement by a control unit consisting of three sliders and forks. Each of the forks is dressed on a special groove of the element. That is, the driver with the help of the gearshift lever and through a special scenes acts on a certain slider, moving it to one of the sides. At the same time, the fork on the slider pushes the gear, and it engages. The change in gear shifting speed is affected by gearing gears of different size and number of teeth.

To prevent the slide with the fork from returning to its original position, the gearbox control unit is equipped with clamps. The latter are spring-loaded balls that enter the grooves on the sliders. That is, the slider has grooves in certain places.

When moving to the desired position, the ball retainer jumps into the groove, eliminating the return of the slider. When switching speed, the driver must create pressure on the slider that exceeds the force of the retainer spring so that the ball pops out.

This is a simplified description of the design and operation of a mechanical transmission.

Usually, classic models work according to this scheme. On some cars, the scheme may be slightly different, but the essence of the work is the same - a slider with a fork acts on the gear.

In some cars in the gearbox, the slider responsible for activating the first speed also provides for the inclusion of the rear. It happens to them that the first and reverse gears are badly engaged. Of course, this damage can not be ignored.

On the other gearboxes, the first speed and the rear are separated and different sliders are responsible for turning them on. In such cars, problems with the inclusion of the first speed may not affect the inclusion of the rear.

There are several options why the first gear does not turn on well. It also depends on how the reason appears - it is impossible to turn it on, while everything is accompanied by a metal rattle from the side of the box, or the speed turns on, but immediately turns off automatically.

Bad inclusion due to slider

First, let's look at why the first gear starts poorly and the problem is with the transmission.

Often the problem with the inclusion of speed lies in the latch and slider. The appearance of a barb near the groove for the retainer on the slider can easily prevent the ball retainer from entering the groove. When moving the slider, the latch abuts against this burr and cannot overcome it without significant effort from the driver. In this case, the gears are very close, but not engaged, and the teeth of one gear beat against another.

In the future, such a beating can lead to flaring of the teeth, and the impossibility of turning it on will already be due to the fact that, due to this rolling, the teeth will no longer be able to engage.

Speed \u200b\u200bknocking

If it turns on, but immediately turns off, then it is possible for the latch to jam in the squeezed position, so it no longer does its job. It is also possible to break the spring, which compresses the ball retainer. Without the force of the spring, he will not be able to hold the slider in the desired position.

If significant force is created, the shift fork may bend during shifting.

If this happens, then the gears will no longer fully engage, and the slider will not reach the stop, which will prevent the latch from entering the groove.

The reason for poor inclusion may be improper installation of the side of the gearshift knob. In this case, the wings do not bring the gear for full engagement.

Gearbox Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting is carried out by removing it from the car, disassembling, troubleshooting parts if it is found that some of them are very worn out. Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the sliders and retainers. If barbs are noticed on the sliders, they must be removed with a file. You must also check the condition of the springs and balls of the retainer. The springs must be intact, and the latch can easily move in its seat. If necessary, worn or damaged items must be replaced.

You should also carefully inspect the forks for bending. Even slight bending can affect the ease of shifting gears.

After assembly, gear shift adjustment must also be made. To be precise, the position of the wings is set.

Clutch failure

Often the reason why the first gear does not engage properly is not the gearbox itself, but the clutch.

The modern transmission is equipped with synchronizers, which equalize the speed of rotation of the gears, providing ease of engagement.

However, the first speed is not equipped with a synchronizer. If the clutch “leads”, then when the pedal is depressed, it does not completely transmit torque from the engine to the gearbox.

Because of this, there is a difference in the rotation of the shafts and gears of the first gear, in particular.

In this case, it is rather difficult to engage them, and all attempts to do this are accompanied by a strong metal rattle.

It is possible that the reverse speed will also not turn on, or it will be difficult to turn on. At the same time, if it was still possible to turn the gear on, the car begins to move even with the clutch pedal fully depressed. An additional sign of clutch problems is that the car jerks when shifting gears, especially if some of them are not equipped with synchronizers.

How to check grip?

Pointing to and not boxes can help the car engine. If, with the engine turned off, all speeds start easily, no problems arise, and when the engine is started, the first and reverse gears turn on poorly, or it cannot be turned on at all, you should pay attention to the clutch.

The reason that the clutch "leads" is often its incorrect adjustment.

The release bearing is too far from the release diaphragm or cams. When depressing the pedal, this bearing is not able to fully depress the drive disk from the follower, and torque continues to be transmitted. Significant wear can also affect the clutch’s work, because of which it began to “lead”.

Clutch adjustment and repair

The first thing to do with clutch problems is to make adjustments.

On different cars, it is done in different ways, but all operations come down to one thing - installing the release bearing at the required distance from the diaphragm or cams.

If the adjustment did not help, then you will have to dismantle the clutch with the car, carry out a troubleshooting and replace the worn elements. Sometimes, over time, all components of the system wear out. In this case, produced complete replacement clutch - drive and driven discs, release bearing.

Conclusion

The main reasons why gears are difficult to drive on are indicated above. Although, as indicated at the beginning, if the mechanical transmission is very reliable, then the clutch rather than the gearbox itself is often the fault of the poor inclusion.

When gears are poorly shifted, driving a car becomes not only unpleasant, but also unsafe. Consider the main reasons why gears are poorly shifted or not shifting at all. And since the automatic transmission and manual transmission differ too much, we will consider them separately.

If you have a mechanic

Poor gear changes on a car with manual transmission for three reasons. The first of these is a clutch failure when it does not completely turn off (leads). The first sign of this malfunction is that reverse gear engages with a distinctive crack. The rear one reacts to this anomaly more noticeably than the rest of the gears, because it is the only one not equipped with a synchronizer.

The second reason is a defect in the gear selection mechanism. And finally, the third - excessive wear of gearbox synchronizers.

Clutch malfunctions, in which the manual transmission gears are poorly shifted, are also several:

Excessive wear of synchronizers mainly occurs on those gears, which include more often: this is usually the first, second and third. The back does not fall into this list, since it does not have a synchronizer. When your gear changes poorly, and you assume that the reason for this is deterioration of synchronizers, first of all, you should have difficulties with this only on the go. Secondly, switching in this case is better if using double squeeze.

For those who do not know what a double squeeze is. To shift to a higher gear: squeeze the clutch, engage the neutral, release and squeeze the clutch again, engage the gear.

Backlash in the so-called “helicopter” is one of the reasons for the fuzzy inclusion of gears

In order to switch to a lower one: the double squeeze must be combined with the gas exchange, that is, when the clutch pedal is released and the gearbox is on neutral, you need to press and release the accelerator pedal. So switch gears to an auto box which does not have synchronizers. If the box will switch more easily using a double squeeze, then the fault is that the gears are poorly shifted, most likely worn synchronizers.

If gears are poorly shifted when the car is stationary, the engine can only be malfunctioned in the gear selection mechanism.

Look for a breakdown in it or check the correctness of its adjustment. On the clutch and synchronizers do not even think.

For those who have a gun

If your car has a gearbox automatic. You will not hurt the knowledge of the modes in which your machine can work:

The automatic gearbox has a button on the mode lever with the inscription O / D OFF. When it is turned on, a prohibition of inclusion occurs, increasing the transmission of analogue 5 of the transmission of the manual transmission. That is, if your machine has 4 gears for moving forward, then for more dynamic acceleration it will use only three lower gears.

About the malfunction of the automatic transmission checkpoint is much more complicated than those encountered with the manual transmission, and the chances of repairing it in your garage are small. But despite this, you still need to know something about it at least in order not to harm it by improper operation.

The automatic gearbox is much more demanding on the accuracy of maintaining the oil level in it than the mechanics. She is very harmful both too low and excessively high oil levels. Both that and another can lead to its serious breakdowns. In both cases, foaming occurs. With a lack of oil due to the fact that the oil pump along with the oil begins to trap air. With an excess of oil, it foams with rotating parts, which in this case are immersed in it. Foamed oil compresses better and has low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if you operate an automatic machine with such oil, the pressure in its control systems will be low. What will lead to slipping of friction clutches and their intensive wear. Deteriorated thermal conductivity will not allow to remove all excess heat. Which in combination with low pressure will lead to the fact that the machine will fail and require serious repairs.

Foamed oil has a larger volume. Therefore, checking the oil will show a too high level. If you find that the oil level has risen for no apparent reason, you must turn off the engine and allow the oil to stand still. After that, check the level again. If it turns out to be low, you need to safely add the required porosity and repeat the test.

The oil level in the machine is checked using a dipstick or through a control hole closed with a plug.

How to check the oil level with a dipstick

Warm up the oil to operating temperature (for this you need to drive about 15 km).

Select an even horizontal platform for measurement. Put the car on the handbrake.

Move the lever to select the mode of operation of the box through all positions, lingering in each from 3 to 5 seconds, until the machine operates.
Leave the mode selector in position P, and in this position determine the oil level.
Without stopping the engine, remove the oil dipstick, wipe it dry and reinsert it into the tube until it stops, then pull it out and read the readings. The upper boundary of the oil marks on the dry dipstick should be at the mark with the inscription hot or in the area with intersecting notches.

In case of insufficient level, add oil through the tube into which the dipstick is inserted. Do not forget that the automatic transmission is afraid of dirt, so add only clean new oil. Wipe the probe with a clean cloth that does not drop any threads.

When checking the oil level, pay attention to its appearance. Dark liquid with the smell of burning indicates that not everything is in order in the unit. First, try changing the automatic transmission oil and filter. The milky color of the ATF indicates that coolant has entered the box. The coolant softens and inflates the material from which the clutches are made. Do not hesitate in replacing such oil, having previously eliminated the cause of the antifreeze getting into the box, otherwise the machine will suffer significant damage. Coolant may enter the box due to leaks in the oil section in the radiator of the cooling system. In this case, the emulsion will be observed both in the box and in the engine cooling system.

The most common malfunctions of the machine

The car does not drive forward, reverse is normal. Possible causes: clutch wear forward gear, piston defect of this coupling, breakage of the rings of the same coupling, jamming of the valve body valves.
There is no reverse speed, there are only 1 and 2 forward. Likely causes: wear of the clutch of the reverse gear, malfunction of the piston of this clutch, damage to the splined joint in the drum casing, another defect of this drum.
No back, forward everything works. Reasons: wear of the brake band, malfunction of the piston of this band or breakage of its rod, defects in the braking package.
There is no movement either forward or backward when you turn on any mode, there is a shift push, but the car stands still. Reasons: converter failure, lack of oil, filter clogged.
Only reverse, 1st and 2nd gears are included. Reasons: jamming of the valve in the valve body, low oil level, general wear of pistons and clutch clutches of gears that do not turn on.

The gearbox is a rather complex unit, requiring proper attention and diagnostics. Today, the problem of poor gear shifting is relevant for many vehicles, so it is important to understand how the unit is diagnosed and repaired. From this material you will learn why the first gear does not turn on well, what it is connected with and how you can turn on the first gear if necessary.

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What are the reasons for interruptions?

The gearbox is not only one of the most complex, but also one of the most basic units in any vehicle. The causes of malfunctions, which first gear is tightly engaged in, can be associated with both improper use of the unit and driving on poor roadway. In any case, if you do not know why speed does not turn on well, then this indicates a certain breakdown of the unit itself.

It should be noted that a similar problem is often found in older cars that are bought with hands, and not in car dealerships. Therefore, if you purchased a used car, then you should not be surprised at such a problem, especially since any malfunctions will appear in any car sooner or later. In addition, if you try to turn on the speed and this happens, but very badly and with great difficulty, then the unit selector may eventually cease to respond to any motorist commands at all. Naturally, not every driver will be able to constantly start moving from the second speed, so it is important to understand the reasons why the first gear is tightly engaged.

The following is a list of failures, as a result of which the gear lever will switch gears poorly:

The problem is - the mechanism turns on poorly, the shutdown is incomplete. Often this problem occurs in domestic cars and in most cases it is associated with the fact that a mechanical clutch cable flies from the attachment point. In fact, it is not particularly difficult to identify this - if the cable breaks, the pedal will be sunk into the floor and will not move. This, as you understand, is directly related to the clutch, and not the gearbox.
There was a malfunction in the operation of the traction drive of the control mechanism of the gear shift. Then not only the first, but also the rear, as well as the remaining speeds, will turn on poorly.
Breaking jet thrust unit.
For unknown reasons, the mounting bolts located on the side dish or selector lever of the gearbox mode selector have loosened. The problem is solved by tightening the bolts.
The gearbox gearbox was incorrectly adjusted.
The plastic elements in the gearbox control drive have failed or worked out their service life.
The link was poorly adjusted. As you know, the purpose of the scenes is very important in connecting the gearbox and the gear selector, so incorrect adjustment may well be the cause of the problem. In addition, plastic sleeves could wear out or fail on this curtain.
Failure of synchronizers can also be called one of the most common breakdowns in the gearbox. Unit synchronizers are brass bushings needed to more easily switch unit modes. Since brass in itself is a soft material, during the operation of the vehicle it can be washed and worn out. For the correct diagnosis of the condition of the synchronizers, attention should be paid to the operation of the gearbox - if a rattle or an unpleasant sound appears when shifting gears, then the problem is in them. Moreover, this sound will appear constantly when trying to turn on the first gear. In the event that only sound appears, but the gearbox selector is switched on in one mode or another without problems, then a malfunction will arise soon.
Failure of gearbox bearings. Such a malfunction is not so common, one might even say that it’s rare, but any motorist can run into it anyway. If you own a car with mechanical transmission, then the bearings could jam in it, as a result of which the shaft ceases to rotate along the path. In such cases, the first gear is heavily engaged, at other speeds the problem usually does not occur.
The shaft of the box is out of order. The unit shaft is usually not subject to operational wear or very heavy loads, but a malfunction may be caused by a factory defect. In the event that even not very large mistakes were made in production, the shaft may well break. If so, then the problem of turning on the first speed can only be the beginning of a big breakdown that you have to face. As practice shows, often in such cases the unit itself breaks completely.
The problem of failure of the clutches is relevant for owners of cars with automatic transmission. There are cases when, when the clutches are not functioning properly, when the first speed is turned on, a jolt occurs, but then everything works fine. The fault is solved only by replacing the clutches.

You, as a motorist, need to understand that failure of the shaft of the unit or bearings cannot be diagnosed at home. To understand this reason only experience and equipment will help. Accordingly, if there are problems with the inclusion of the first speed, it is advisable to immediately contact a professional.

How to engage first gear without harming the box?

Often, inexperienced motorists, including the gearbox selector from second speed to first, can notice how some difficulties appear, in particular, how hard the first gear is engaged. In such cases, the novice driver often tries to turn on the speed, using force, simply driving the selector into the desired position. In no case can this be done, since such actions can be fraught.

Actually, having noticed such a shortcoming in the manual transmission, motorists have developed a rule - the first speed should be included only in order to start. In all other cases, second, third and fourth gears are engaged. Especially often experienced motorists use this rule, but we want to say from ourselves that this is basically wrong.

Any car instructor will tell you that the choice of speed should be based on the driving speed and engine speed. In principle, even parking normally is only possible at first speed. If you try to park at second speed, you will have to maneuver very quickly, and a strong load will affect the grip in such cases. Actually, like the gearbox itself. Accordingly, for yourself, you must learn one simple rule - you can only engage first gear when driving only if the speed is small and the speed crankshaft low.

Gearbox theory

Every motorist who understands the structure of the gearbox knows that all modern cars with a mechanical transmission are equipped with synchronizers. This element is one of the important components of the unit. The purpose of synchronizers is to equalize the speed of all the shafts of the gearbox. In addition, these elements are responsible for gearless and gearless gear shifting.

It should be noted that immediately while the driver pushes the gear selector when switching from second gear to first, you can feel an obstacle. This obstacle prevents the activation of the first speed, and it is this obstacle called the synchronizer. In the event that the gearbox is relatively new or a synchronizer has recently been installed on it, then you will not feel problems with the transition from high speed to low speed. The inclusion of the first gear will be carried out without any barriers.

But if your vehicle has already passed more than a hundred thousand kilometers, then this will directly affect the functioning of some elements of the unit. In particular, in the first place, synchronizers will stop working normally - they simply will not be able to carry out the tasks assigned to them initially. Then the motorist is forced to perform various "tricks" that our grandfathers told us about - these are all kinds of relocations with and so on.

When performing such tricks, the gas will perform the function of the equalizer of the gears conjugated to each other. Thus, if the difference in angular speeds is high, and the synchronizers are worn out quite strongly, then the driver will have to gas even more. In the case when the angular speeds will be the same, the motorist will immediately understand this - the gearbox selector can easily switch from high speed to low speed. Thus, to make efforts will no longer be advisable.

First gear shifting methods

So, if the modes in your vehicle turn on poorly and you have already figured out the reasons and theory, then we will move on to the most important thing - the methods for engaging the first gear. Most simple method in this case, the first gear will be activated when driving. You need to push the unit selector forward without any effort and do this until the corresponding synchronizer comes into operation. However, it should be noted that this method is relevant for most cars and some freight vehicles.

It should be noted that in most old trucks this will not work, since the device of the unit itself does not allow this, since they simply do not have synchronizers. In addition, you need to take into account that this method of activating the first speed is hardly relevant if the synchronizer has already worked out its service life on your vehicle. It will be simply impossible.

Then the motorist will only have to wait for a while until the car practically stops to turn on the desired speed. Or, using force to engage the gearshift lever. In principle, neither the first nor the second method can be called the optimal solution to such a problem. As practice shows, it will be best to use the very old-fashioned method with gas rebuilding.

How to do this - you can find out below:

So, moving at the second speed, start to squeeze the clutch pedal.
When depressing the pedal, shift the gear selector to the neutral position. By doing this, you can disable the clutch pedal, you can disable it.
Then, when the pedal is fully lowered, you need to not give a lot of gas with your right foot by depressing the pedal. In this case, pay attention to the tachometer, which shows the number of revolutions. You need to bring the revolutions to two and a half thousand per minute, that is, the arrow should be on the number 2,500. Here, also pay attention to its one important nuance - the greater the difference in angular speeds of the gears of the gearboxes coupled, the higher it is necessary to raise the number of revolutions. That is, the indicator of 2,500 is the minimum; add gas if necessary.
Then depress the clutch pedal again.
Next, the box selector should be moved to the activation position of the initial mode, that is, the first speed. Here also pay attention to the fact that if the selector does not enter the correct position correctly, then most likely you just gave little gas. If so, then repeat the steps, just add more gas.
In the end, you need to smoothly release the clutch pedal, not abruptly. If you did everything correctly, then the lever of the box without any problems, pushes and extraneous sounds will engage in the required position.

If you didn’t succeed in doing this, then do not be discouraged - the first time it is rare that anyone succeeds in double-shifting. Repeating the procedure several times, you can remember everything that needs to be done to properly enable the first speed. Actually, the same methods allow you to activate the first gear when driving in the third, for example, if in emergency situation need to brake the motor. In this case, the higher the ride speed, the longer you will need to wait for synchronizers to help you. Or you need to press more on the gas.

But do not regard double relocation as a way out of the situation. This method can be called a temporary solution, but the unit will still have to be repaired. Since replacing synchronizers is a rather complicated process, we recommend contacting specialists for help. If you still decide to perform this procedure yourself, then the instructions provided below will come in handy.

The clarity of gear shifting and the operation of the entire shift mechanism often worries car owners with mechanical gearbox. A common problem is that after starting the engine one or several gears are engaged with great effort or not completely, there is no way to turn on the speed, extraneous noise is heard at the moment of turning on, extra vibrations appear, etc.

Such malfunctions appear unexpectedly, as well as difficulties in shifting gears can increase gradually. Speeds may turn poorly on “cold” and / or “hot”. It is noteworthy that often the gears in the manual transmission on a drowned motor switch normally.

Read this article

The gears on the started engine are switched on poorly: possible reasons

At the very beginning, it should be noted that the lack of the ability to turn on the transmission on an unoccupied engine may indicate a serious gearbox malfunction, which consists in the failure of the synchronizers. The second reason may be wear or damage to the gears. It is also possible to jam nodes and mechanisms responsible for the transmission of force from the lever in the passenger compartment to the gearbox when selecting a gear.

For an accurate determination of the reasons in the first case, it will be necessary to remove the box for disassembly and subsequent troubleshooting, in the second it is necessary to identify and replace the broken nodes. In some cases, it is enough to carry out their prevention: removal, lubrication and careful adjustment.

As for the problem switching when the internal combustion engine is running, then in the list of the most common faults note:

lack of gear oil at the checkpoint;
clutch problems;

Low gearbox oil

The insufficient amount of oil in the box makes the gearshift process extremely difficult, but the speeds must be engaged. With such a shift, a metal crunch is heard, while the gearbox starts to make a lot of noise and "howl" when driving in the engaged gear.

The complete lack of lubrication in the gearbox will not allow shifting gears, since without oil, the synchronizers will not be able to work properly, and gears in the gearbox will not engage.

Any manifestation of these symptoms requires the immediate discontinuation of the vehicle and checking the level of gear oil in the gearbox. You must also inspect the gearbox for damage to the case, oil leaks through oil seals and gaskets.

It should be noted that for manual transmission of many cars, oil in a box from the factory is filled for the entire service life. In practice, replacement is recommended every 60-80 km. run.

Clutch failure

If it is simple, the clutch is a mechanism that serves to transmit the engine's torque to the transmission, and also disconnects the engine and transmission so that the gear can be shifted. Failure of the individual components of this unit may make it impossible to shift gear precisely with the engine running.

Brake fluid leaks

Construction of many modern cars assumes that the clutch fluid is brake fluid. If there is not enough fluid in the hydraulic clutch actuator, then the clutch will not fully engage.

Transmissions in this case will turn on tight or not turn on at all. For an initial check, take a look at the fluid level in the tank. At a low level, it is necessary to check for leaks, eliminate defects and bleed the clutch.

In the event that the fluid level is normal and there are no other reasons, it will be necessary to remove the gearbox to inspect the clutch elements. Usually when trying to turn on speed and breakdowns this mechanism no loud grinding metal sounds from the gearbox itself are heard.

Transmissions may not turn on or not turn on fully if the malfunction is related to the clutch basket. Also, the release bearing may be the cause. In the event that the specified bearing does not move freely on the input shaft or is jammed, then replacement of the part is necessary.

It must be added separately that the primary sign of problems with the clutch release is the appearance of a rustle or a distinct hum in an established car. Noises only occur when the clutch pedal is squeezed to the floor. Such extraneous sounds can be present both on a cold machine and on a warm one. After releasing the clutch pedal, the noise should disappear. A jammed clutch release will not allow the clutch to engage, which complicates gear shifting, and can also lead to rapid wear and destruction of other elements of the clutch mechanism.

Basket failures are often associated with critical wear on the petals. Depreciation means that the basket ceases to fulfill its functions with heating. The increase in temperature leads to the fact that by means of the clutch basket it is not possible to completely carry out the removal of the pressure disk. The result is a very difficult speed change after a slight warm-up of the engine.

After removing the box, it is necessary to inspect the basket for deformation, traces of overheating and other defects. In case of detection, the element must be replaced.

Another reason that the gears are not engaged on the wound-up machine or are engaged with force may be a worn clutch disc.

After parsing, it is necessary to inspect the friction linings on the disk. They should not be critically worn out, burned or damaged, and deformation of the disk is not allowed. Additionally, during the inspection of the clutch, a check of the diaphragm springs is required. After replacing failed clutch elements, the box must be well centered during subsequent assembly, and the clutch must be pumped.