Do-it-yourself ignition installation vaz 2106. Correct ignition setting on the Six: instructions for owners

I must say "how to set the ignition on the VAZ 2106" - this is a fairly common question. About how to do this, and what is needed for this, in the article.

The content of the article:

To begin with, it is simply impossible to set the ignition on the injector. This system has an engine control unit, which, judging by the indicators from the phase sensor and the crankshaft position sensor, supplies voltage to the ignition system. Therefore, it is impossible to adjust the ignition on the injector. Not at all.

How to understand that you need to set the ignition

There are several indirect signs worth looking at. Of course, if the engine does not start, then setting the ignition is the first thing that comes to mind, unless, of course, the candles are wet. Consider the main symptoms that indicate the need to install the ignition.

Signs that an ignition installation is required:

Increased fuel consumption. Of course, this may be due to improper adjustment of the carburetor, but it also happens. For example, with late ignition, the dynamics of the car drops, to achieve the same acceleration, a larger amount of combustible mixture is required.
Loss of dynamics. With late ignition, the explosion goes after the piston, which has already gone down under the action of the flywheel inertia.
Silencer shots. When the explosion occurs in pursuit, the expansion of gases takes some time. If the piston has already reached the bottom dead center, then the exhaust stroke is next. This means that part of the fuel explosion will be transferred to the exhaust system, hence the pops.
Increased engine noise. Installing the ignition on the VAZ 2106 will be required if the engine begins to noticeably "rattle" and shake. In this case, the piston is still going up, and the explosion is already happening towards it. This makes his work very hard, unpleasant to the ear, immediately noticeable.

How to set the ignition on the VAZ 2106 - procedure

First, you need to set the ignition label. The crankshaft can be rotated either with a ratchet or with a special key for a nut. On the front cover of the engine and on the crankshaft pulley there are ebb and flow, the combination of which corresponds to a different ignition timing:

The first mark in the direction of travel is 10 degrees ahead of the ignition angle. Angle lead is a correction for the burning rate of the fuel. So, 10 degrees is the mark for 72 gasoline.
Next comes the middle mark - ahead of 5 degrees. It's for 80 petrol.
The last, short mark is a lead of 0 degrees. This means that the mixture will ignite exactly at the moment when the piston is in top dead point.

After the installation of the ignition mark is completed, you must immediately set the required clearance in the contacts, of course, where they are. To do this, remove the distributor slider and unscrew the breaker fixing screw.

Before setting the gap, it is advisable to clean the contacts with sandpaper (600-800)

The gap between the contacts of the breaker in the open state should be 0.35-0.40 mm. To do this, you will need a flat probe.

Well, now we go directly to the ignition installation of the VAZ 2106. We unscrew the distributor mount (nut by 13), after which we pull it out of the housing.

Now you need to insert the distributor into place, given a few mandatory points:

We set the top dead compression stroke in the first cylinder according to the mark, respectively, at this moment the spark should appear in it. In order to catch this moment, we put the cover on the distributor and mark the place where the armored wire enters from the candle of the first cylinder. Now you need to remove the cover and set the outer contact of the slider exactly opposite the mark. That is, at the moment when the piston is at top dead center, a spark is supplied from the central wire of the distributor through the contacts of the slider to the armored wire from the first cylinder.
Next, to set the ignition to 2106, you need to draw an imaginary line between the roof latches and install the distributor in place so that this line is parallel to the engine block. It should be said right away that it will not work to get into the slots of the drive the first time, you will have to twist the case a couple of millimeters. This is not scary, because the ignition installation requires subsequent adjustment. It is important that the distributor fully sits in its place so that it rests on the block. Next, we pull it into place.

Ignition adjustment VAZ 2106

Setting the ignition is half the battle, because then it needs to be adjusted. After the engine is started, it is necessary to warm it up, accelerate it to 40 km / h in third gear, then turn on fourth and press the gas pedal about halfway, maybe three quarters, but not to the floor. There are a couple of scenarios for the development of events, each of which requires its own solution.

A short-term detonation that disappears after a couple of seconds. It's okay, that's how it should be. If it passes within 4-5 seconds, then subsequent ignition adjustment is not required.
Long detonation. This indicates that the ignition is too early. In order to make it later, you need to stop, loosen the fastening of the distributor body, holding it with your hand, and then turn it one division on the body towards the “+”. Then perform the same operation if the detonation lasts longer than the time indicated above.
No detonation. This is also not very good. In this case, you need to stop and turn the distributor in the direction of "-".

How to set the ignition on a VAZ 2106 video:

Properly set ignition is the key to proper operation of the engine and its trouble-free start. Among other things, fuel consumption and the dynamic performance of the car depend on the moment of ignition; due to incorrectly set ignition, it can occur, which can lead to irreversible consequences and. To the question of how to set the ignition, each motorist has his own answer, some do it by eye, others use a strobe light, there are also those who fundamentally use the services of car services. Be that as it may, the main thing is the result, otherwise what you did it with is no longer of fundamental importance.

In order to set the ignition on the VAZ 2106 you will need:

Key on "13";
Control (voltmeter or 12 volt light bulb);
Candle key.

The ignition is set to the first or fourth cylinder, today we will consider the first option.

Ignition moment VAZ 2106 is set according to the marks on the lid, there are three marks, short, medium and long.

A short mark corresponds to a lead angle equal to 10°.
Average - 5 °.
Long - 0°.

TDC (top dead center) is marked on the rim of the pulley, and there is a special influx on the pulley opposite this mark.

The VAZ "seven" is the latest classic Zhiguli model, produced from 1982 to 2012. Moreover, the injector and electronic ignition appeared on the VAZ 2107 car already in the 90s, and all previous modifications came with a carburetor and a mechanical (contact) sparking system. Since across the countries former USSR A lot of such cars “run”, then the issue of switching to contactless ignition (abbreviated as BSZ) does not lose its relevance for their owners. It is solved without any problems, you just need to buy a set of new equipment and put it on the "seven" with your own hands, so as not to spend money on car service services.

Electronic ignition design

To put a contactless system on the "classic" VAZ 2107 with a carburetor, it is advisable to study how it works. This will help you properly assemble the circuit and successfully launch it into operation. BSZ for old Zhiguli carburetor models consists of the following elements:

distributor, it is also the distributor of the ignition system;
high-voltage coil of a new design (different from the old one, working with mechanical contacts);
a switch responsible for managing the system;
high-voltage and ordinary wires with connectors and terminals connecting the listed elements;
spark plug.

Reference. Since the new ignition system does not have a contact group, and its operation is controlled by an electronic unit, the names “contactless” and “electronic” are equally suitable for it.

The new high voltage coil has 2 windings. The primary is made of a large cross-section conductor and is connected to the car's electrical network through an ignition switch relay. The secondary winding is wound with a large number of turns of thin wire and connected by a high-voltage wire to a distributor, consisting of the following parts:

housing with a shaft mounted in the center;
a movable contact (the so-called slider) is fixed at the end of the shaft;
a cover is put on top of the case, where high voltage wires large section, going to the spark plugs;
there is a protrusion (cam) on the shaft, opposite which is the Hall sensor;
a vacuum diaphragm is attached to the side, providing ignition advance.

The switch is connected by small-section conductors to a distributor and a coil, its task is to control the timely supply of a spark to the candles.

Reference. In newer versions of the VAZ 2107, where there is an injector instead of a carburetor, there is no separate switch. There is no need for it, since the on-board computer controller controls the sparking and fuel supply.

The principle of operation of the BSZ

Sparking with electronic control operates according to a fairly simple algorithm, which determines the reliability of such a scheme. When the driver turns the key in the ignition, a constant voltage from the on-board network goes to the primary winding of the coil, which causes a magnetic field around it. Then the system works like this:

The starter turns the crankshaft and drives the distributor shaft along with the slider.
The Hall sensor, which reacts to the passage of a metal mass nearby, registers the rotation of the shaft along the protrusion on it and sends a signal to the switch.
The electronic unit, on the signal of the sensor, turns off the voltage supply to the primary winding of the coil.
At the moment of breaking the circuit, a pulse is formed in the secondary winding of the coil high voltage(up to 24 kV). Through a thick wire, it is directed to the movable contact of the distributor.
The slider redirects the impulse to one of the fixed contacts built into the cover. From there, voltage is supplied to the spark plug of the cylinder where the piston is at top dead center.
At this point, the fuel is already in the combustion chamber in a compressed state. When a spark jumps on the electrodes of the candle, it ignites.
The slider rotates and transmits a spark to all cylinders according to the 1-3-4-2 scheme, after which the car engine starts and starts to work.

Note. In old VAZ 2107 cars, there was no switch, and the electrical circuit was broken mechanically- the shaft cam opened the contact group.

Pros and cons of contactless ignition

At the moment, 100% of manufactured cars using gasoline or liquefied gas as fuel are equipped with an electronically controlled sparking system. Mechanical ignition is outdated and a thing of the past. The reason is its unreliability during operation, frequent malfunctions and low spark power. Compared with the contact system, BSZ has the following advantages:

The absence of contacts whose surfaces constantly burn out from high voltage, causing the sparking power to drop sharply.
In distributor electronic system there are no wearing parts that had to be changed every 15-20 thousand kilometers.
Thanks to contactless circuit and a new design of the coil, the voltage supplied to the electrodes of the candles was raised from 18 to 24 kV. This had a beneficial effect on the ignition and combustion of the air-fuel mixture in the cylinders.
Reliability in work and durability.

Reference. In the past, the owners of the VAZ "classics" quite often had to remove a protrusion burning on the surface of one of the contacts, which required a flat file. But a recess formed on the second contact, which is quite difficult to clean, so manufacturers began to make contact groups with through holes.

Of the significant shortcomings of the BSZ, one can be noted - the non-repairability of the Hall sensor. If the mechanical contacts are cleaned, then the faulty sensor only needs to be changed, so it is advisable to carry it with you. On the other hand, this device is very reliable in operation and serves 40-50 thousand km without problems.

Reference. Owners of VAZ 2107 cars equipped with the first BSZ sets, in addition to the Hall sensor, also had to carry a spare switch. But after 2 years, its design has undergone modernization, which is why the electronic components have ceased to fail.

Instructions for installing a contactless system

The procedure for replacing mechanical ignition with electronic is divided into the following stages:

selection and purchase of BSZ;
preparation of tools;
removal of the old system and installation of a new one;
ignition setting.

If earlier you did not have to deal with the problems of sparking in the classic Zhiguli models on your own, then you will have to allocate about 3-4 hours for all the work.

The BSZ factory kit for the VAZ 2107, which is commercially available, includes the following parts:

switch with catalog number 36.3734 (it also happens to be 3620.3734);
main ignition distributor, marking - 38.37061;
high voltage coil, catalog number - 27.3705;
harnesses with connectors.

Note. The distributor marking is indicated for cars with engines of 1.5 and 1.6 liters. In modifications of the "sevens" with a 1.3 liter engine, the cylinder block is smaller in height, and the ignition distributor shaft is shorter. Its catalog number is 38.3706–01.

On sale there is a similar contactless kit designed for the Russian SUV VAZ 2121 Niva. In it, the distributor is marked as follows: 3810.3706 or 38.3706–10. You should not buy it for the "classics", because the element differs in technical parameters although it looks the same on the outside.

Among manufacturers producing ready-made kits electronic ignition for old VAZ models, the SOATE company, whose production is located in Stary Oskol, has recommended itself best of all Russian Federation. Feedback from the owners of the "classics" about the company's products is purely positive.

Advice. When planning to put the BSZ on the "seven", in parallel, replace the spark plugs (brand - A17DVR) and high-voltage wires to them. They are not included in the delivery set, but for stable and economical operation of the engine with new system sparks are very useful.

What tools will be needed?

For mounting electronic block and other elements of the BZS, you will need a simple toolkit available in the garage of any skilled motorist:

screwdrivers with flat and Phillips slots;
open-end wrenches 8, 10 and 13 mm in size;
ordinary pliers;
candle wrench, equipped for convenience with a cardan;
hand or electric drill with a drill with a diameter of 3-3.5 mm.

Note. With the help of keys, the terminals, fasteners of the distributor and coils are unscrewed. You will need a drill to make 2 holes for mounting the switch. In some machines, you can find ready-made holes designed for mounting electronics, they are located on the left side member (in the direction of the car).

It’s good if you manage to find and borrow for a while a special key designed to turn the VAZ 2107 crankshaft by grabbing the ratchet nut. Another option is to rotate the crankshaft with a conventional 30 mm open-end wrench or by turning a posted rear wheel with 4th gear engaged.

Perform installation and configuration work contactless ignition You can do it anywhere you like, as long as the weather permits. Since you do not need a viewing hole, a flat and well-lit area will do.

Installation of BSZ on a car

Before installing the electronic ignition, you need to remove the old system from the car, proceeding in this order:

Lift the hood cover of the "seven", disconnect the battery from the on-board network and remove the high voltage wires from the candles.
Turn out the candles and turn the crankshaft to bring the piston of the 1st cylinder to the top dead center (TDC). A long screwdriver inserted into the candle well will help you with this. Make sure that the notch on the crankshaft pulley is opposite the first mark on the cylinder block (it is the longest of the three).
Unlock the metal latches of the ignition distributor cover and remove it together with the wires. To be sure, put a mark on the valve cover of the engine opposite the movable contact of the slider.
Disconnect all wires from the distributor and a thin tube that connects it to the fitting on the carburetor. Loosen the nut holding the distributor skirt to the cylinder block and unscrew it. Remove the old distributor, making sure that the gasket is not lost (it stands between it and the block).
Disconnect the wires from the contacts of the high voltage coil and note where they are connected. Unscrew the coil bracket and remove it from the body.

Start the installation of the BSZ with the installation of an electronic unit equipped with an aluminum mounting plate with holes (it serves as a cooling element for the device). If there are ready-made holes on the left side member, screw the switch to them with two self-tapping screws. Otherwise, find a free place near the coil, drill holes and fix the control box.

Advice. Do not place the switch under a reservoir of flushing fluid windshield. If it leaks, it will flood the delicate electronics and the ignition will stop functioning.

Mount the elements of the contactless system in the following sequence:

Take a new distributor, remove the cover from it and put on the gasket. Install it in the socket on the cylinder block so that the moving contact is opposite the chalk mark drawn on the engine valve cover. Lightly press the skirt of the distributor with the fixing nut so that it does not accidentally turn.
Screw the high voltage coil back into place (fixings match). Connect the wires from the ignition lock relay, tachometer and switch to its terminals. The wire coming from contact "1" of the electronic unit is connected to the terminal marked "K" of the coil, and the wire from contact "4" is connected to terminal "B".
Having set a gap of 0.8-0.9 mm between the electrodes of the candles, screw them into the holes of the cylinders. Put the cover on the distributor and connect all the high voltage wires, including the central one leading to the coil. Connect the vacuum tube, after which you can start the engine and adjust the timely sparking.

Advice. When mounting a high-voltage coil, the terminals are interchanged, which causes some inconvenience. The issue is solved by loosening the nut of the mounting clamp and turning the coil body by 180 °, after which it can be put in place.

Stages of ignition installation in photos

The position of the slider with aligned marks Before setting marks, you need to remove the distributor cover Unscrewing the wires of the old distributor Removing the central high-voltage wire from the coil When all the wires are removed and the fastening nut is unscrewed, the distributor is removed from the block After installing the new coil, the wires are connected to the same terminals guided by the numbers on the cover The switch is mounted on 2 self-tapping screws to the side member

Video on replacing the ignition with electronic

Ignition Setting Instructions

If you clearly followed the instructions given, connected all the wires according to the diagram and did not knock down the combined marks, then the motor will start without problems. To adjust the ignition, you need to achieve stable operation of the engine, so first warm it up for several minutes, without letting it stall by pressing the gas pedal.

Advice. If the engine start fails, and even pops do not appear when the starter is turned on, then you probably messed up with the wiring. Check everything again according to the diagram attached to the factory set of electronic ignition parts.

There are two ways to perform adjustment on a warm engine:

without the use of special devices - "by ear";
precise adjustment with a stroboscope.

A stroboscope is a device with a light bulb that flashes simultaneously with the transmission of an impulse by the Hall sensor. When the included stroboscope is brought to the flywheel of the crankshaft with the engine running, the position of the notch becomes visible. Hence the possibility of fine adjustment.

To set up, connect the power of the stroboscope to battery, and a thick core - to the high-voltage wire of the spark plug of the 1st cylinder. Loosen the distributor nut and bring the flashing lamp to the pulley. Slowly turn the distributor housing until the notch on the pulley is opposite the short notch, then tighten the nut.

Tuning in a folk way "by ear" is performed as follows:

Start the engine and loosen the nut holding the ignition distributor.
Smoothly and slowly rotate the distributor within 15 °. Find the position where the motor runs most stably.
Tighten the fastening nut.

Advice. When you turn the ignition distributor by hand, try not to touch the high voltage wires so that you do not get an electric shock. The best option- take hold of the body of the membrane mechanism, where the tube from the carburetor is connected.

It is quite natural that after installing a contactless ignition system idling engine will rise to 1100-1200 rpm due to increased power sparks. Set the rate to 850-900 rpm by tightening the screw idle move on the carburetor and guided by the tachometer. On VAZ 2105-2107 carburetors of the Ozone type, this screw is located in the lower section of the unit on the right side and differs big size. In VAZ 2108 carburetors of the Solex type (these were also placed on the "seven") there is a long plastic handle protruding to the right (in the direction of travel). The second screw, which regulates the composition of the air-fuel mixture, cannot be turned.

Advice. If during a sharp press on the accelerator a loud knock is heard from the engine, then you have set the ignition timing too high and the mixture flares up earlier than necessary. Loosen the distributor nut and rotate the housing a couple of degrees clockwise.

Video about adjusting the ignition on the "classic" Zhiguli

The best indicator of the successful installation and configuration of a contactless ignition system is to check the VAZ 2107 on the go. It is worth driving a car for several kilometers to check it under various modes - acceleration, driving in a straight line and coasting with the gear engaged. You will surely like the behavior of the machine, and the hateful cleaning of contacts will be forgotten forever.

The stability of the engine, its power, fuel efficiency etc. Normally, on four-stroke engines, the fuel-air mixture should ignite at the end of the compression stroke, that is, just before rising to top dead center. This moment of ignition is due to the fact that the mixture takes a certain time to burn, after which the energy of the expanding gases pushes the piston down and the working stroke begins.

Late or early ignition should be understood as a delay or advance in the activation of the ignition system in relation to the position of the piston in the cylinder. In other words, a spark plug spark forms and ignites the air-fuel mixture not at the optimal moment when the piston approaches TDC, but sooner or later than this moment. This phenomenon is called early or late ignition. For this reason, the owners Vehicle, in which the possibility of self-adjustment of the UOZ (ignition advance angle) is realized, they often face the need to adjust the ignition.

Read in this article

How to understand that the ignition is late or early

The ignition of the working mixture of fuel and air in the cylinders with an advance or delay leads to certain malfunctions in the engine. In the list of the main signs by which an incorrectly installed ignition can be identified, the following should be highlighted:

difficult engine start;
a noticeable increase in fuel consumption;
the engine loses throttle response, power drops;
unstable idling is noted;
responsiveness to pressing the gas pedal disappears;
engine overheating and detonation occurs;

An incorrect ignition angle can manifest itself in the form of characteristic pops that are given to the exhaust system, etc. It is quite obvious that further operation with a knocked down ignition timing can lead to more serious breakdowns engine, especially in the event of sustained detonation.

Consequences of an incorrectly set ignition angle

Both late and early ignition negatively affects the operation and life of the engine. It should be added that not only power and fuel consumption depend on the correct ignition timing. If the spark does not form before the set time, then the pressure of the expanding gases begins to oppose the piston rising to TDC (early ignition). Ignition of the working mixture after the piston has begun to move down from TDC leads to the fact that the released energy of the fuel “catches up” with the piston and enters the outlet, and does not useful work(late ignition).

In the case of early ignition, the rising piston needs to apply a lot of force to compress the resulting gases as a result of premature combustion of the mixture. The load on and in such conditions increases significantly.

Signs of early ignition are manifested in the form of the following symptoms:

the appearance of a metallic sonorous overtone during engine operation, which is localized in the area of the cylinder block;
idle speed floats, the engine is unstable;
after pressing the "gas" there is a pause, the engine does not "pull" and overuses fuel;

Late ignition also causes significant damage to the engine. The combustion of the mixture in this case occurs under conditions of a decrease in pressure and an increase in volume in the internal combustion engine cylinder. The very process of combustion of the fuel-air mixture is disrupted, which burns out during the stroke of the piston. As a result, signs of late ignition are:

the engine loses power, for acceleration you need to put a lot of pressure on the gas;
there is a significant increase in fuel consumption;
the motor is heavily coked with deposits and soot;
improper combustion of the mixture leads to overheating of the engine;

Setting the ignition timing with your own hands

Correctly set ignition timing involves adjusting the UOZ. It is necessary to correct the ignition angle at idle. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the optimal idle speed is considered to be within 850-900 rpm. The angle of inclination of the ignition moment is also within certain limits from -1 (negative) to +1 (positive) degrees. The indicated degree is a degree relative to TDC.

Most often, a stroboscope is used to set the ignition timing. This solution allows you to achieve accuracy during installation. In the absence of the device, you can also use the control light.

The specified lamp is connected to the positive terminal on the ignition distributor, and also connected to ground. Next, we will consider the main available methods for setting the ignition using the following example of a domestic “classic”:

Strobe ignition setting

the engine must be warmed up to reach operating temperature;
the stroboscope is connected to the on-board network;
the fixing nut of the cover of the distributor-interrupter of ignition is unscrewed;
the alarm signal sensor is put on the high-voltage wire of the first cylinder;
if there is a vacuum corrector hose, it will be necessary to remove and plug the specified hose;
the glow of the strobe is directed to the crankshaft pulley;
the engine starts and runs at idle;
the distributor housing is rotated;
the position of the body of the breaker-distributor is fixed in such a way that the pulley mark coincides with the corresponding mark on;
after the marks are aligned, the fixing nut is tightened;

Setting the UOZ by the control light

If the light bulb ignition method is used, then it is necessary to turn crankshaft engine so that the mark on the crankshaft pulley matches the mark on the timing cover. In this case, the slider on the ignition distributor should point to the spark plug wire of the first cylinder.

Next, the distributor nut is loosened, after which one wire from the bulb is connected to the wire that goes to the ignition coil from the distributor. The second wire from the lamp is installed on the ground. Then you need to turn on the ignition and rotate the distributor housing clockwise until the control lamp stops burning. After that, you should carefully turn the distributor housing back, that is, counterclockwise. Having determined the position at which the bulb lights up, it is necessary to fix the distributor housing in this position. Fixing is done by tightening the distributor nut.

Other ways to set up and check the ignition on a car

You can also set the ignition to a spark or independently choose such an angle when the engine will work most stably and smoothly. The simplest and least accurate way is to install based on the operation of the motor. To set up the engine, start it, after which the nut fixing the distributor housing is loosened. Next, you need to turn the distributor housing clockwise and counterclockwise, finding the position at which the engine runs smoothly and the twentieth speed is the highest. After that, turn the breaker housing a couple of degrees clockwise and tighten the distributor nut.

When setting the ignition by spark, the marks on the crankshaft pulley and the timing should be aligned, and the mark on the slider should point to the wire of the first cylinder. Then the distributor housing nut is loosened, after which the central high-voltage wire should be removed from the distributor cover.

Then the wire contact should be placed near the "mass" (distance of about 5 mm.) And turn on the ignition. After that, the breaker housing should be rotated 20 degrees clockwise. Now the case must be rotated back until a spark appears between the "ground" and the wire contact. In this position, the distributor housing must be fixed with the breaker mounting nut.

At the end, it is necessary to check the correctness of the UOZ in motion. On a warm engine, the car should be accelerated to 40-45 km / h, after which the fourth gear is engaged and the gas pedal is fully pressed. Next, you need to evaluate the degree of detonation. It is considered normal when, immediately after turning on the 4th gear, detonation is briefly present (2-3 seconds), but disappears with the acceleration of the car. If detonation continues after acceleration, then there is a high probability of early ignition. If there is no detonation at the moment the 4th gear is engaged, then the ignition is later. In such cases, the adjustment of the VOC should be repeated to obtain the optimal result.

What is "Ignition Advance"

Ignition advance refers to the ignition of the air-fuel mixture before the piston reaches top dead center (TDC) during the compression stroke. This factor has a great influence on the operation of the engine. Between the moment the spark occurs and the moment when the gas pressure in the cylinder reaches its apogee, a certain time passes. Although this period of time is extremely short, due to the high speed of the crankshaft during the ignition of the mixture, the piston can go a long way from the moment of sparking to the explosion of the mixture. With a correctly set advance angle, the mixture explodes at the moment when the piston is at TDC and is ready to move down. If the mixture ignites earlier (“early ignition”), it explodes during the piston lift phase and prevents the piston from moving (engine detonates). It leads to premature wear parts and deterioration of engine performance. If the ignition is made late (“late ignition”), the mixture explodes after the piston has left TDC, which leads to the burning of the fuel already in exhaust manifold, a decrease in gas pressure in the cylinder and, therefore, power losses and a decrease in efficiency. Therefore, installing the ignition on the VAZ 2107 is an important and necessary procedure. Sparking should occur at the most appropriate moment, which depends on the position of the gas pedal and the crankshaft speed.

What causes an incorrectly set ignition on a VAZ 2107

An incorrect lead angle causes the following problems:

Engine overheating. Early ignition causes detonation, which changes the temperature regime in the operation of the motor. At the same time, the load on the crank mechanism increases, reducing their service life.

Decreased vehicle dynamics. Early and late ignition of the VAZ 2107 leads to the fact that fuel energy is not optimally consumed. The explosion of the mixture must occur exactly at the moment the piston is at TDC.

Valve burnout. With late ignition, the mixture continues to burn during the exhaust phase, causing the valves to overheat and the exhaust manifold to “pop”.

What is needed to adjust the ignition of the VAZ 2107 (carburetor)

To set the ignition and adjust the gap of the distributor breaker, you will need:

key for 13;
screwdriver;
emery;
candle key;
special key for the crankshaft;
voltmeter or "control" (lamp 12V).

Ignition marks VAZ 2107

When adjusting the lead angle, it is necessary to focus on the marks made on the crankshaft pulley and on the front cover of the engine.

The engine pulley is marked with a notch, which must be aligned with one of the three marks on the cover, depending on the fuel used.

Labels on the lid different lengths- short, medium and long. The first corresponds to a lead angle of 10 degrees, the second - 5 degrees, the third - 0 degrees (the mixture is ignited at TDC).

High octane fuel burns faster than low octane fuel. VAZ 2107 is designed for gasoline with an octane rating of 92-95, so the optimal lead for it is 5 degrees.

How to set the ignition on the VAZ 2107

It is not even necessary to adjust the ignition garage conditions. You can literally set the lead angle in the presence of tools on the street. The procedure is as follows:

Let the engine cool down (if it is hot). This will avoid burns during operation.
Remove high voltage wires from spark plugs.
Unscrew the spark plugs (you can limit yourself to the spark plug of the first cylinder, but with all the plugs unscrewed, there is no compression in the cylinders and it is much easier to rotate the crankshaft).
Close the spark plug hole on the first cylinder with your finger (this will help determine the beginning of the compression stroke in the cylinder).
Using a special wrench, turn the crankshaft to the start of the compression stroke (the finger should feel air pressure).
Continuing to rotate the crankshaft, align the mark on the pulley with the second mark on the front cover of the engine.

Note: if the engine is operated on high-octane fuel (92 or 95 gasoline), it is necessary to set the advance angle to 5 degrees (middle mark on the engine). If 76 or 80 gasoline is used, the advance angle must be zero (long mark on the engine) to avoid detonation.

Remove the distributor cover by unfastening the fastening brackets. With the marks set, the “slider” must be turned with its outer contact to the wire terminal of the first cylinder on the distributor cap. If this is not the case, it is worth checking the position of the crankshaft - perhaps the first cylinder is at TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke, not compression).
Check the position of the distributor cap latches. They must be on a line parallel to the motor axis.
Loosen the distributor fixing nut so that its body rotates freely by hand.
Connect a voltmeter or a 12 volt lamp to ground and to the ignition coil terminal going to the distributor's low voltage wire.
Turn on the ignition.
Smoothly rotate the distributor housing clockwise until the control lamp goes out (the voltage on the voltmeter disappears). If the lamp does not light immediately after turning on the ignition, it is not necessary to rotate the distributor.
Slowly turn the distributor counterclockwise until the control lamp comes on.
Stop rotation and tighten the distributor fixing nut.
Switch off the ignition.
Install the distributor cover in place.
Connect high voltage wires.

Checking the ignition timing

First of all, you need to start the engine. If it previously started, but after adjustment it didn’t, it’s worth checking once again that the lead angle is set correctly. If the engine is running, it is necessary to check the advance angle on the go:

Accelerate the car to 45 km / h.
Engage 4th speed.
Press the gas pedal sharply.
Detonation should occur for 2-3 seconds, and then, after the car accelerates, it should disappear.

If the detonation does not disappear after speeding up, the ignition is “early”. If detonation does not occur at all, the ignition is “late”. To reduce the lead, unscrew the distributor fixing nut and turn it clockwise a little less than a division of the scale. You can increase the lead by turning the distributor counterclockwise.

Tip: when the ignition is perfectly set, paint a mark on the scale. This will make subsequent ignition adjustments easier.

Adjusting the gap of the distributor breaker VAZ 2107

The quality of the spark depends on the gap between the contacts of the breaker and the condition of the contacts themselves. To adjust the VAZ 2107 distributor, you must perform the following operations:

unfasten the fastening brackets and remove the cover of the distributor;
unscrew the screws securing the slider;
remove the slider;
clean the breaker contacts with emery (in order not to damage the contacts, it is necessary to use emery with a grain size of no larger than 600).
loosen the screw fixing the breaker contacts;
by turning the adjusting screw, set the gap to 0.4 mm using the appropriate feeler gauge;
tighten the fixing screw;
install and secure the slider;
fix the cover of the distributor.

In addition to adjustment, it may be necessary to repair the VAZ 2107 distributor. It consists in cleaning the contacts on the distributor cover or replacing the cover itself, replacing the slider, resistor or contact group.