If the car starts to slip under load, most likely the problem is in the clutch. It is dangerous to move with a faulty unit, so it should be changed as quickly as possible. The article gives detailed instructions, how it is carried out, which device to choose, and also attached a video demonstrating the process.

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When is it necessary to change?

The clutch system allows the car to move off smoothly, removing the load from the engine, which reduces wear on its parts and extends its service life. Overloads are caused by inertial moment generated during rotation of parts power unit, if the speed drops sharply crankshaft.

VAZ 2107 assembly diagram

There is no specific time frame for replacing the unit, since the service life of this device mainly depends on operating conditions and the driver’s driving style. It is recommended to diagnose the device after 80 thousand km.

Symptoms of a problem

The need to repair the clutch assembly is determined by the following criteria:

• extraneous noise occurs when changing speeds;
• the device slips, especially under load;
• the clutch does not disengage completely;
• rattling;
• jerking when starting to move;
• The clutch pedal falls out.

If the described signs appear, it is better not to delay repairs in order to avoid unpleasant surprises along the way.

This video shows the process of replacing a unit on a VAZ classic.

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Causes of VAZ 2107 clutch failure

Driven and driven discs are subject to the greatest wear.

Clutch failure can be caused by the following reasons:

• wear, oiling, defects on the surface of friction linings;
• too large gaps or lack thereof in the clutch release drive;
• air entering the hydraulic drive system;
• fluid leakage from the master cylinder and hydraulic drive system;
• loosening rivets;
• disc deformation;
• jamming, wear of the driven disk hub splines, clutch drive mechanism;
• bearing wear;
• malfunction of the driven disc damper springs;
• breakage of the release fork or its release spring;
• wear of the sealing rings, which impairs the seal.

To eliminate these problems, in each individual case you need to change worn parts; it is better to replace the clutch system assembly.

Visual inspection of the disk

What's the best way to change?

It is best to replace the device by placing the car on a lift, overpass or inspection groove. If this is not possible, then you can raise the car using a jack to get to the unit from below. For safety, you need to fix the wheels so that the car does not roll or put on the hand brake.

Tools

To carry out repairs, you need to prepare the appropriate tools:

• set of keys;
• screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• clean rags;
• jack;
• new consumables.

When choosing a new replacement kit, you need to buy original parts, better assembled.

Stages

The replacement procedure consists of the following steps:

1. Having opened the hood, first of all you need to turn off the power to the car. To do this, you need to remove the negative terminal from the battery.

   Engine compartment of VAZ 2107

2. Then you need to dismantle the air filter housing and unscrew the starter mounting nuts.
3. Next in the cabin, you should remove the covers from the gearshift knob, floor mats and sound insulation. Then the gearshift lever must be disconnected from the gearbox. To do this, you need to press on it and use a screwdriver to pull out the white plastic sleeve.
4. To perform further repairs, you need to move under the car.
5. When removing parts, you should carefully inspect them for wear and defects. Change them if necessary.
6. At the next stage, we disconnect the exhaust pipe, the working cylinder, the universal joint, from which the wires should be disconnected.
7. Then we dismantle the starter, which we unscrewed, and remove the gearbox. The gearbox could simply be moved to the side, but it is better to remove it to check the condition of the oil seal. If necessary, the oil seal should be replaced. It is better to remove the gearbox with an assistant, as this is a labor-intensive process. It is advisable to wash the gearbox after removal.
8. Next, you can remove the basket and clutch disc. In this case, you need to remember how the disk was installed in order to install it correctly when reassembling.

   Removing disks from a node

9. Now you can evaluate the state of the components of the node. The anthers and driven disk are subject to the most wear. The master cylinder should be replaced.
10. You can only change worn parts, or you can change the entire assembly. It is advisable to replace the clutch assembly, since, having replaced the old parts, there is no guarantee that after a short period of time you will not have to reassemble and disassemble to replace broken parts.
11. Further assembly is carried out in the same order as disassembly.

After the repair is completed, the vehicle system should be checked for functionality.

Cost of clutch assembly

As mentioned above, it is better to change the clutch assembly. The question arises, which device is better.

We can offer four options for assembled units with approximate costs:

1. Sachs – 4200 rub.;
2. VazInterService (VIS) – from 2400 rubles;
3. Valeo – 4200 rub.;
4. KraftTech – from 2400 rub.

Video “Clutch Review”

This video gives an overview of clutches.

Clutch is one of the main components of a car with manual transmission transmission Without it, normal operation of the car is impossible. It is the clutch that ensures timely separation and then smooth connection of the “box” and the engine crankshaft when changing gears and starting to move the engine. Essentially, the clutch acts as a torque switch.

Composition and features

In most cars (including domestic “classics”) the clutch consists of several main elements:

Release bearing. It is located on the input shaft, which protrudes slightly from the gearbox. In this case, the bearing is mounted not on the axis itself (as many believe), but on the protective casing. It is thanks to the bearing that the drive fork is driven. According to their own design features The release bearing can be either a pull-out or a push-action;

Friction linings. Carbon composite material, ceramics or Kevlar are used to make these components. The overlays are installed directly on the base and fixed using special rivets;

Driven clutch disc. This knot is distinguished by its round shape. Its main purpose is to connect the gearbox input shaft. The disc contains damper springs (necessary to reduce vibrations), a splined coupling, a radial base and linings;

- the “basket” (pressure disk) has an original convex shape. The diameter of the “basket” is almost comparable to the size of the flywheel. The disc is perfectly ground on one side and tightly attached to the flywheel.

The clutch mechanism is controlled from inside the car by pressing the clutch pedal. The principle of its operation is very simple. In the normal position (when the pedal is depressed), the release springs squeeze two disks together - the pressure plate and the clutch. At the same time, both of them are pressed tightly against the flywheel. As a result, the input shaft is located in a splined coupling and transmits torque.

As soon as the driver behind the wheel of the car presses the clutch pedal to the floor, the release bearing begins its work. It puts pressure on the release springs and moves the pressure plates away from the clutch disc. The gearbox input shaft stops rotating, but the power unit continues to operate.

When to adjust the clutch?

There are no special requirements for adjusting the clutch according to mileage. The car enthusiast himself must monitor the efficiency of the lever and make timely adjustments. As a rule, the need for this arises in the case of long-term use of the car and natural wear and tear of rubbing parts. This is logical, because all clutch assemblies have to withstand heavy loads. Often the need for adjustment occurs when the clutch is abused, when the driver depresses the clutch and holds it in this position for a long time.

There are situations when serious mistakes were made during the previous adjustment. In this case, you have to redo all the work again. If you ignore the problem and continue to operate the car with an unadjusted clutch, then there may be problems with shifting gears, starting to move (jerks appear), and fuel consumption (“appetite” may increase by 10-20%).

And what’s the point of delaying the adjustment if this work can be done within 30-40 minutes on your own.

Features of clutch adjustment VAZ-2107

Carrying out the entire range of adjustment work will not be a problem even for a beginner. The main thing is to act strictly according to the given algorithm:

1. Drive the car onto the overpass. If there is a hole in the garage, then this is only a plus. All that remains is to organize high-quality lighting.
2. Start working from the inside of the car. First of all, make sure that the clutch travel is within acceptable limits. For VAZ-2107 this parameter ranges from 0.4 to 2 mm. In this case, measurements are taken from the point of the highest position of the pedal until it stops directly at the cylinder piston. If everything is fine, we continue further. If not, make adjustments:

Find the lock nut that limits the clutch travel) and unscrew it using a “10” wrench;

Twist the stop (it is located under the lock nut), measuring the gap along the way. Once you are within the above range, tighten the top nut.

1. Remove the mudguard (for cars with an injector).
2. Thoroughly clean the pusher of debris and treat it with penetrating lubricant.

1. Measure the free play of the clutch cylinder pusher. This important point, because from this parameter The stroke of the release bearing itself directly depends. To carry out the test, perform the following manipulations:

Move the clutch fork as far back as possible;

Measure the free play (the normal value is 4 to 5 mm). If the spring is too stiff and does not allow measurements, then it is better to disconnect it during the test.

1. Adjust free play (if necessary). To do this, take a key set to “17” and hold the adjusting nut with it. At the same time, loosen the locknut using a wrench set to “13”.

1. Take the key at “8” and firmly fix the pusher. At the same time, using a key set to “17”, rotate the nut and set the required stroke of the pusher. According to the manufacturer's recommendation, it should be in the range from 4 to 5 mm (we have already mentioned this above).
2. After completing the adjustment, securely lock the adjustment nut with a wrench and tighten the locknut.
3. Now move inside and check the overall pedal travel. Here the norm is 2.5-3.5 centimeters. Measurements must be taken from the extreme top position until the clutch starts to disengage. If necessary, carry out the set of adjustment work again.

Conclusion

It is enough to delve into the features of adjusting the clutch pedal on a VAZ-2107 for the first time, and in the future this work will take no more than 30 minutes of personal time. Now you won’t need to go to a service station for such a trifle - you’ll do everything yourself. Good luck.

The VAZ 2107 clutch is a part of the transmission mechanism that is involved in transmitting torque to the drive wheels of the car. All classic VAZ models are equipped with a single-disc clutch with a central spring. Failure of any clutch element can bring big trouble to the car owner. However, most problems can be solved on your own.

Clutch VAZ 2107

The vehicle's handling largely depends on the serviceability of the VAZ 2107 clutch mechanism. How often this mechanism will have to be repaired is influenced by the quality of the roads and the driver’s experience. For beginners, as a rule, the clutch fails quite quickly, and repairing and replacing the unit is quite labor-intensive.

Purpose of the clutch

The main task of the clutch is to transmit torque from the engine to the drive wheels of the car.

Initially, it was intended for short-term separation of the engine and the main gear during smooth starting and gear shifting. The VAZ 2107 clutch has the following characteristic properties:

• has the smallest permissible moment of inertia of the driven disk;
• removes heat from rubbing surfaces;
• protects the transmission from dynamic overloads;
• does not require a lot of pressure on the pedal when controlling the clutch;
• It is compact, maintainable, quiet, easy to maintain and maintain.

The design and principle of operation of the VAZ 2107 clutch

Clutch VAZ 2107:

• mechanical (driven by mechanical forces);
• frictional and dry (torque is transmitted due to dry friction);
• single-disk (one slave disk is used);
• closed type (the clutch is constantly on).

Cohesion can be roughly represented in the form of four components:

• driving or active part (crankshaft flywheel 6, basket with casing 8 and steel pressure disk 7);
• driven or passive part (slave or passive disk 1);
• inclusion elements (springs 3);
• shutdown elements (levers 9, fork 10 and pressure bearing 4).

The basket casing 8 is bolted to the flywheel, connected by damper plates 2 to the pressure disk 7. This creates conditions for transmitting constant torque from the flywheel through the casing to the pressure disk, and also ensures that the latter moves along the axis when the clutch is turned on and off. The driving part rotates constantly when the engine is running. The passive disk moves freely along the splines of the input shaft 12 of the gearbox. The hub is connected to the driven disk through damper springs 3 and due to this has the possibility of a certain elastic rotation. This connection dampens torsional vibrations that occur in the transmission due to engine operation at different speeds and corresponding dynamic loads.

When the pedal 5 is depressed, the passive disk 1, with the help of springs 3, is clamped between the flywheel 6 and the pressure disk 7. The clutch is engaged and rotates together with the crankshaft as a single unit. The rotational force is transmitted from the active to the passive part due to the friction that occurs on the surface of the friction linings of the driven disc, flywheel and pressure plate.

When pedal 5 is pressed, the hydraulic fork moves the clutch with the pressure bearing towards the crankshaft. Levers 9 are pressed inward and pull pressure plate 7 away from driven disk 1. Springs 3 are compressed. The active rotating part is disconnected from the passive one, no torque is transmitted, and the clutch is disengaged.

When the clutch is engaged, the driven disc slips relative to the smooth surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate, so the torque increases gradually. This allows the car to move away smoothly and protects transmission components during overloads.

Clutch hydraulic drive device

The transmission of torque from the engine to the drive wheels is carried out using hydraulic drive.

The hydraulic drive plays an important role when starting the vehicle and changing gears. It includes:

• pedal;
• master and slave cylinders;
• pipeline and hose;
• pusher;
• clutch engagement and release fork.

The hydraulic drive allows you to smoothly engage and disengage the clutch without exerting much effort when pressing the pedal.

Clutch master cylinder

The clutch master cylinder (MCC) increases the pressure of the working fluid when you press the pedal. Due to this pressure, the clutch fork rod moves.

The pusher piston 3 and the master cylinder piston 5 are located in the main cylinder body. The use of an additional pusher piston reduces the radial force on the main cylinder piston when the pedal is pressed. In this case, the sealing ring 4 is pressed against the walls of the cylinder mirror and improves the sealing of the pistons. To ensure tightness inside the cylinder, there is an o-ring 12 located in the groove of the piston 5.

For additional sealing of the piston, an axial hole is drilled in its guide part 9, connected to the ring groove by 12 radial channels. As the pressure in the working space of the GCS increases, it reaches the inner part of the ring 12 and expands it. Due to this, the tightness of the master cylinder piston increases. At the same time, ring 12 acts as a bypass valve, through which the working part of the cylinder is connected to the reservoir with the working fluid. When the pistons reach their extreme position at the plug 11, the sealing ring 12 opens the compensation hole.

Through this hole, when the clutch is engaged (when the RCS piston creates excess back pressure), part of the fluid passes into the reservoir. The pistons are returned to their original position by a spring 10, which presses with one end on the plug 11, and with the other on the guide 9 of the piston 5. All internal parts of the GCS are fixed with a retaining ring 2. On the mounting side, a protective cover is put on the GCS, protecting the working part of the cylinder from dirt. .

Most often, the o-rings on the master cylinder wear out. They can always be replaced from the repair kit. In case of more serious malfunctions, the GCS changes entirely.

If the compensation hole becomes clogged, excess pressure will be created inside the drive system, which will not allow the clutch to fully engage. She will slip.

Clutch slave cylinder

The clutch slave cylinder (CLC) is attached with two bolts to the gearbox housing in the area of ​​the clutch housing. This arrangement of the RCS leads to the fact that dirt, water, and stones often get on it from the road. As a result, the protective cap is destroyed and wear of the O-rings is accelerated.

When you press the pedal, pressure is created in the clutch hydraulic drive, which is transmitted to piston 6. The piston, moving inside the cylinder, moves the pusher 12, which, in turn, turns the clutch engagement and release fork on a ball joint.

It is very important to observe the dimensions of the internal mirror of the main and working cylinders. When factory assembled, they are equal to each other - 19.05+0.025–0.015 mm. Therefore, the sealing rings on the pistons of both cylinders are completely interchangeable. If you need to make the clutch pedal softer, you need to buy a foreign analogue of the working cylinder with a smaller diameter of the working cavity. If the diameter is larger, then the pressure on it will be less. Therefore, in order to overcome the elastic force of the basket friction springs, greater force must be applied. Therefore the pedal will be tighter.

Composition of the VAZ 2107 clutch kit

The VAZ 2107 clutch kit consists of:

• baskets;
• driven disk;
• pressure bearing.

According to VAZ regulations, these elements are not repaired, but are immediately replaced with new ones.

Basket

The basket has the most complex device in the clutch kit. It consists of many parts that require correct and precise assembly. The basket is assembled only in factory conditions and is not repaired even in specialized car repair shops. If wear or serious defects are detected, the basket is replaced with a new one. Main cart malfunctions:

• loss of elasticity due to sagging springs;
• mechanical damage and fracture of damper plates;
• the appearance of wear marks on the surface of the pressure plate;
• kinks and cracks in the basket casing;
• other.

The service life of the clutch is determined by the life of the basket, driven disk or pressure bearing. Therefore, to avoid the cost of repeated repairs, the coupling is always replaced as a set.

Driven disk

The driven disk is designed to transmit torque from the engine flywheel to the transmission input shaft and can briefly disconnect the gearbox from the engine. The technology for manufacturing such disks is quite complex and requires the use of special equipment. Therefore, it is impossible to repair the disk yourself. It is replaced with a new one when:

• wear of friction linings;
• wear of the internal splines of the hub;
• detecting defects in damper springs;
• loosening the sockets under the springs.

Pressure bearing

The pressure bearing is designed to retract the pressure plate from the driven one and is activated when the clutch pedal is pressed. Its malfunctions are usually accompanied by whistling, knocking and other sounds. When the rollers jam, the support wears out work surface or the seat in the glass, the pressure bearing is changed in the assembly.

Clutch faults VAZ 2107

The main signs of a faulty VAZ 2107 clutch are:

• it is difficult to change gears;
• the driven disk slips;
• vibration appears;
• The pressure bearing whistles;
• the clutch is hard to disengage;
• The pedal does not return from the lower position.

Almost any malfunction is accompanied extraneous sounds- noise, knocking, whistling, etc.

Find out why your car may jerk when starting from a stop:

Gears won't shift

If the gears are difficult to shift, an experienced driver will immediately tell that the clutch is moving. In other words, the clutch does not disengage completely. As a result, when starting from a stop, it is difficult to engage first gear, and when the pedal is pressed, the car moves slowly. The reasons for this situation may be:

• Increased distance between the thrust bearing support surface and the heel of the basket. It must be set within 4–5 mm, changing the length of the working cylinder rod.
• The spring sectors of the driven disk are warped. The disk needs to be replaced with a new one.
• The thickness of the driven disk has increased due to the stretching of the rivets securing the friction linings. The disk needs to be replaced with a new one.
• Jamming of the driven disk on the splines of the gearbox drive shaft. Both parts are defective and, if necessary, replaced with new ones.
• Lack of brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir or accumulation of air bubbles in the hydraulic drive system. The working fluid is added to required level, the clutch hydraulics are being pumped.

The clutch is slipping

The clutch may start to slip for the following reasons:

Such malfunctions are eliminated by adjusting the drive, replacing oil seals, cleaning the channel with wire, and identifying and correcting the causes of pedal sticking.

Clutch is jerky

If the clutch starts to jerk, it may be caused by the following:

• the driven disk is jammed on the splines of the gearbox drive shaft;
• oily areas have formed on the friction linings;
• the clutch hydraulic drive is not adjusted;
• the steel disk of the basket is warped, some friction springs have lost their elasticity;
• The driven disk is faulty.

In such situations, it is most often necessary complete replacement clutch.

Noise when engaging clutch

The appearance of grinding and rattling noises when releasing the clutch pedal may be due to the following:

• the pressure bearing is jammed due to lack of lubrication;
• The gearbox drive shaft bearing is jammed in the flywheel.

In both cases, the problem is solved by replacing the bearing.

Noise when disengaging the clutch

When you press the clutch pedal, you hear a knocking, clanging, rattling sound, and you can feel vibration on the gear lever. The reasons may be the following:

In all cases, worn elements should be replaced with new ones.

The pedal returns but the clutch does not work

Sometimes it happens that the clutch does not work, but the pedal returns to its original position. This may be due to the following situations:

• air entering the hydraulic drive system;
• wear of the sealing rings of the main and working cylinders;
• lack of working fluid in the tank.

In these cases, you should bleed the hydraulic drive, replace the rubber rings with new ones and add working fluid to the reservoir.

Tight grip

The softness of the clutch is determined by the force of pressure on the heel of the basket to retract the pressure plate. The magnitude of the force depends on the elasticity of the damper springs. Baskets from many manufacturers, including foreign ones, are suitable for the VAZ 2107 clutch. Stiff pedal signals to the driver that the basket's life is coming to an end.

The pedal disengages the clutch at the beginning/end of its stroke

When you press the pedal, the clutch may disengage at the very beginning or, conversely, at the very end. In such situations, adjustment of the free and working travel of the pedal will be required. The free stroke is regulated by changing the length of the pedal limit screw, and the working stroke is regulated by changing the length of the working cylinder rod. In addition, increased free play may be a consequence of wear on the driven disk linings.

Video: main clutch problems and their solution

Replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch

Rapidly changing loads high revs, different angles of inclination - all these operating conditions place special demands on the quality of manufacture of the VAZ 2107 clutch and its individual parts, which are centered and balanced only in the factory. Replacing the clutch is a rather complex and time-consuming procedure, performed on an inspection pit or overpass. To work you will need:

• a set of open-end wrenches, spanners and heads;
• slotted and Phillips screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• clean rags;
• new clutch kit (preferably original version).

Dismantling the gearbox

To gain access to the clutch, the gearbox must be removed. Dismantling the box consists of the following steps:

1. IN engine compartment remove the negative terminal from the battery, air filter and the top starter bolt is unscrewed.
2. In the cabin, the gear shift lever is pulled out.
3. From the inspection hole, the exhaust pipe of the exhaust system is unscrewed from the box and the cardan from the main gear. In this case, it is necessary to make chalk marks on the flanges of the cardan and the rear axle gearbox.
4. From the inspection hole, the cross member of the rear gearbox support is unscrewed from the bottom.
5. The remaining starter bolts and the four bolts securing the box to the rear of the block are unscrewed.
6. The wire is removed from the reverse gear sensor and the speedometer cable is unscrewed using pliers.
7. Unscrew the two bolts securing the working cylinder.
8. The box is moved to such a distance that its drive shaft comes out of the clutch basket. The exhaust pipe of the exhaust system can be used as a support for the box. If it is necessary to lower a box weighing 28 kg to the ground, it is necessary to unscrew the receiving pipe from the manifold in advance and disconnect it from the resonator pipe.

Video: dismantling the VAZ 2107 gearbox

Removing the clutch

Removing the gearbox provides access to the VAZ 2107 clutch. To remove it, you need to unscrew the six bolts securing the basket casing to the flywheel. To avoid damaging the casing, all bolts are first loosened evenly by 1–2 turns. First, the basket is removed, and then the driven disk.

Inspection of clutch elements

After removing the clutch, you must carefully inspect the basket, driven disc and pressure bearing for damage and signs of wear. Special attention should be noted:

• at the driven disk - on the condition of the friction linings, damper springs and sockets, as well as the hub splines;
• at the basket - on the condition of the damper plates, springs, casing and pressure plate;
• at the pressure bearing - for the play of the rollers and the cup seat.

Individual clutch elements cannot be repaired, but are replaced as a set. If traces of oil are found on the working surfaces of the flywheel, driven and pressure disks, you should check the condition of the crankshaft seals and the gearbox input shaft. Worn and damaged rubber elements must be replaced. In addition, you should carefully inspect the clutch fork. If there are signs of wear at its ends, the fork must be replaced.

Clutch installation

Installing the clutch on a VAZ 2107 is carried out in the following order.

Gearbox installation

The gearbox is installed in the reverse order of removal. Before this, it is necessary to lubricate the smooth and splined part of the input shaft of the CV joint 4 box or with grease. If the driven disk is centered correctly, the gearbox will easily slide into place.

Clutch selection

On different models The VAZ 2107 manufacturer installed carburetor (2103 with a volume of 1.5 l) and injection (2106 with a volume of 1.6 l) engines. Despite the external similarity, the clutch of these models has certain differences. The diameter of the basket pressure plate in both cases is 200 mm. But for the basket for 2103 the width of the pressure plate is 29 mm, and for 2106 it is 35 mm. Accordingly, the diameter of the driven disk for 2103 is 140 mm, and for 2106 - 130 mm.

Some car owners install a VAZ 2121 clutch on their VAZ 2107, which is noticeably stiffer and more reliable than the original one.

For all VAZ models with rear wheel drive Clutch kits from classic cars famous brands.

Table: clutch manufacturers for VAZ 2107

A country	Manufacturer's brand	Advantages and disadvantages of clutch	Weight, kg	Price, rub
Germany	SACHS	Reinforced, so a little tough. Reviews are excellent	4,982	2600
France	VALEO	Great reviews, very popular	4,322	2710
Russia, Tolyatti	VAZInterService	Installed on the assembly line, good reviews	4,200	1940
Germany	LUK	There are dampers on the pressure and driven disks. Reviews are good	5,503	2180
Netherlands	HOLA	Noisy, short-lived, many negative reviews	4,810	2060
Germany	KRAFT	Soft, reliable. Reviews are good (many fakes)	4, 684	1740
Russia	TRIAL	Excessively hard. Reviews 50/50	4,790	1670
Belarus	FENOX	Difficult, bad reviews	6, 376	1910
Türkiye	MAPA	Medium hardness, reviews 60/40	5,370	1640
China	AUTOTECHNIK	Difficult, reviews are not very good	7,196	2060

Clutch adjustment

Necessary after its repair or replacement, as well as after bleeding the hydraulic drive. To do this you will need:

• open-end wrenches for 8, 10, 13 and 17;
• ruler with divisions;
• pliers.

Adjusting the pedal free play

The pedal free play should be 0.5–2.0 mm. Its value is measured inside the car with a ruler and, if necessary, adjusted by changing the length of the pedal travel limiting screw.

Adjusting the working cylinder rod

The working cylinder rod is adjusted from the inspection hole or on a platform. In this case, it is necessary to achieve a clutch play value (the distance between the end of the pressure bearing and the fifth basket) within 4–5 mm. Adjustment is carried out by changing the length of the working cylinder rod.

After both adjustments have been made, the clutch operation is checked. To do this, on a warm engine with the pedal depressed, try to engage all gears, including reverse gear. There should be no noise, the speed lever should move easily, without jamming. Starting off should be smooth.

Video: bleeding the clutch VAZ 2101–07

Despite the complexity, the work of replacing and adjusting the VAZ 2107 clutch is quite simple and does not require any special equipment, skills or knowledge. Even a novice car enthusiast, having a standard set of locksmith tools and recommendations from specialists, will be able to complete all operations without any problems.

If there are malfunctions in the clutch mechanism of the “seven”, repair or adjustment of the clutch is required, which should bring this important mechanism of action of the transmission and power plant into working condition, or, as gunsmiths say, into normal combat.

Adjusting the clutch of a VAZ 2107, the video instructions for which are posted on our Internet resource, is carried out in the case when the pedal of the mechanism does not work correctly - there are sharp dips when it is pressed, activation does not occur in full mode, the product loses its elasticity during its operation. A set of tools necessary for repairing and adjusting the clutch mechanism:

• a set of locksmith tools;
• WD-40 solution or equivalent;
• fluid for operating the hydraulic clutch;
• rubber hose;
• storage tank;
• scale bar.

Clutch adjustments

Clutch adjustment is usually carried out after installation work to replace the clutch mechanism. Correct adjustments will make it possible to continue operating the unit components without failure. Before starting these technological operations, it is necessary to test the hydraulic drive system of the unit for the presence of air in it. If there is an “air lock” in the system, it must be removed. In this case, it is better to replace the vehicle's hydraulic fluid.

The principle of carrying out such adjustment measures is to create the required dimensions between the rod and the piston of the mechanism cylinders, as well as the required dimensions between the release bearing and the friction ring on the drive disk of the unit. In the drive mechanism of the unit, the following adjustments are made to the VAZ 2107 clutch:

1. Setting the required clearance in the master cylinder (MCC) in the amount of 0.1-0.5 mm in the pusher-piston pair. It is necessary to adjust the clutch to operate in full cycle, which passes when installing the pedal stop. These dimensions are adjusted by moving the clutch pedal in the free range, which is within the measurement range of 0.4 to 2 mm.
2. Setting the required size of movement of the pusher in the working cylinder (WCC) in free mode, which is 4-5 mm. It is achieved by adjusting the nut pair, the top of which is secured with a lock nut. The linear dimension of the pusher movement value is determined by a special standard.

After making the above-mentioned clutch adjustments, the pedal travel in free movement should initially be 0.25-0.35 cm. Adjusting the size between the “release bearing-friction ring” pair on the basket is also necessary. The correctness of such clutch adjustment is determined by measuring the stroke of the control rod in free movement (4-5 mm).

Regulatory actions are carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. We press out the fork, holding the RCS rod. In this case, the fork should move without interference at a distance of 4-5 mm.
2. If the size does not match, it is corrected.
3. To do this, slightly loosen the locknut with wrenches “13” and “17”.
4. Holding the rod with an “8” wrench, we carry out adjustments to move the stroke in free mode, rotating the nut to adjust.
5. When making adjustments, the output stroke should be within 0.25-0.35 cm.
6. After the test measurement, the locknut must be tightened.

Clutch adjustment in an injection VAZ 2107

The clutch adjustment carried out on the VAZ 2107 injector is somewhat different from the similar operation on the “Seven” with a carburetor engine. The point is that on vehicles with injection power plant An additional shield is installed to protect against mud deposits formed from road dirt. In the frontal projection, the protective casing is secured with bolted connections, and in the rear projection - with 2 self-tapping screws.

To dismantle this protective casing, use an 8-type socket wrench to unscrew the 4 fastening bolts. We also dismantle 2 self-tapping stern fastening screws. To carry out such a technological operation as adjusting the clutch pedal of a VAZ 2107, the following work cycle is required:

1. Using a scale ruler, measure the distance from the pedal to the surface of the driver's mat. Using the force of your palm, press the pedal until the resistance force of the reverse action of the pedal begins to act and measure the length of free movement of the pedal. It should be 1-3 mm.
2. If the measured value does not fall within the required dimensions, then: loosen the lock nut, give the bolt a rotational movement, carry out an adjustment followed by tightening the lock nut.

After carrying out the adjustment work, tighten the fasteners, after which you need to tighten the locking nut. We turn the pusher until the desired stroke value is determined, and finally tighten the locking nut. Care must be taken to maintain the position of the pusher in relation to the main center coupling.

Upon completion of the adjustment of the VAZ 2107 clutch pedal, it is necessary to clarify that the desired length of free movement is normal. Data for control: the stroke of free movement of the pedal is 1-3 mm. The length from the driver's floor to the pedal is 90 mm.

5 minutes to read.

Everyone is accustomed to the fact that the clutch is a simple pedal located under the left foot. In fact, this is a complex system that requires constant attention and care.

The VAZ 2107 clutch is a part of the transmission mechanism that is involved in transmitting torque to the drive wheels of the car. The clutch is located between the gearbox and the car engine and transmits rotation from the engine to the gearbox. When the pedal is pressed, the clutch is released and the engine is separated from the gearbox. When the pedal is released, the connection is restored again. The clutch ensures smooth starting of the car and silent gear shifting.

Basic faults

The slave cylinder has several rubber seals, which often become unusable or become oily, causing the car’s clutch to “slip.” Replacing old seals with new ones will require using a lift or inspection hole, since the main cylinder is located in an inconvenient place.

When replacing seals, do not forget that there is brake fluid in the system; it must first be drained.

It is advisable not to touch the flare nut, otherwise additional adjustment will be required later. In order to replace the gaskets without removing the master cylinder, certain skills and experience are required.

Another cause of clutch malfunction may be wear of the release bearing. To replace it, you will have to dismantle the gearbox. Linings wear out just as often brake disc, this is easy to notice by the characteristic noise when the pedal is released. And the most common problem with a clutch malfunction is air getting into the system. Air can be removed by bleeding.

Leveling up

To bleed, you will need brake fluid and a container for draining it, as well as a transparent hose with a diameter of 5mm. and an assistant who will have to press the clutch pedal until heaviness appears in it. After this, it must be clamped, and a second person at this time must unscrew the fitting and drain all brake fluid. Air bubbles will be visible in the hose. The procedure should be repeated until these same bubbles disappear. Also, do not forget about the fluid level in expansion tank.

Adjustment

Clutch adjustment on a VAZ 2107 is carried out by adjusting the clutch drive, or rather, the adjusting bolt, which is located at the end of the cable in the engine compartment. Incorrect adjustment causes the clutch to slip.

1. The car is installed on an overpass or inspection hole.
2. In the cabin, the free play of the clutch pedal is checked and, if necessary, adjustments are made. To do this, use a 10mm wrench to loosen the locking nut of the pedal stop and set the required gap, approximately 0.4-2 mm.
3. The pusher is cleaned of dirt and a penetrating lubricant is applied.
4. The working cylinder is checked for free play of the pusher, on which the free play of the release bearing depends. To do this, push the clutch fork back by hand until it stops, while the free play of the pusher should be within 4-5 mm.
5. Adjustment of the free play of the pusher is done with a 17 wrench, which will keep the adjusting nut from turning, and with a 13 wrench, loosen the tightening of the lock nut.
6. The pusher is held with a key at 8, at the same time with a key at 17
7. The adjusting nut is loosened and the required free play of the pusher is set, this is approximately 4-5 mm.
8. The locknut is tightened by holding the pusher adjusting nut.
9. Inside the car, the total free play of the clutch is checked, which should be approximately 25-30 mm. from the top position of the pedal to the start of switching on. If necessary, the entire operation is repeated several times until it is felt that the clutch is no longer slipping.

Replacing the master and slave cylinders

The master cylinder is replaced in the following sequence:

1. Liquid is drained from the reservoir. This can be done using an ordinary syringe, or by removing the hose from the master cylinder fitting.
2. The pipe fitting leading to the clutch slave cylinder is unscrewed.
3. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two nuts on which the main cylinder is attached.

Replacing the working cylinder:

1. The spring is removed from the working cylinder.
2. Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the tube connecting the master and slave cylinders.
3. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two bolts of the working cylinder and remove them together with the plate.

After replacement, the working cylinder must be bled.

Replacing the clutch yourself

When replacing the clutch, you should carefully inspect all the parts being removed; it is quite possible that you will not need to replace the entire assembly; it will be enough to change only some parts.

The clutch is replaced in the following sequence:

1. The battery terminals are disconnected.
2. The gear shift lever is disconnected from the transmission.
3. Disconnects from the resonator exhaust pipe, then the working cylinder is disconnected from the gearbox housing. The cardan is disconnected from the gearbox itself.
4. The bolts securing the starter to the transmission housing are unscrewed, but before doing this, the two lower nuts that secure the transmission to the engine block must be loosened.
5. The gearbox is removed, then the clutch basket is dismantled. After removing the basket, the clutch disc is released
6. At this stage, if necessary, the master cylinder and other components are replaced, for example, the clutch fork or antennae on the basket are changed.
7. Assembly and installation of the unit is carried out in the reverse order.

When assembling, all parts must be thoroughly washed, but under no circumstances should this be done in gasoline or oil. Lubrication is carried out only with brake fluid.

The clutch is one of the most important components in a car, without which it simply will not move. Therefore, this complex system requires proper attention and care. Malfunctions in the clutch operation can lead to spontaneous movement of the car, and this is a direct threat to the lives of others.