An article about replacing the timing belt with your own hands - when a replacement is necessary, product selection, tools, work progress. At the end of the article there is a video about the timing belt.

The content of the article:

The timing belt is designed to simultaneously rotate the crankshaft and camshaft, which ensures synchronous operation of the valves with the engine pistons. In addition, this most important element of the engine performs other important functions - it drives the water pump of the cooling circuit and the oil pump.

A modern timing belt is a high-tech product and is made of high-quality reinforced rubber based on artificial rubber (polychloroprene, neoprene) with special additives. Additionally, the high-quality belt is reinforced with a cord with strong internal threads.

Replacing the timing belt is strictly regulated and described in the “Repair and Operation Instructions” for a specific make and modification of the car. In practice, depending on the make of the car and the operating mode, the timing belt can reliably perform its functions for 50–100 thousand km, after which it needs to be replaced (preferably, together with one or more rollers, depending on the engine modification).

Sometimes, at the same time as replacing the belt, it may be necessary to replace the cooling pump.

However, some manufacturers set a clearly inadequate service life for the timing belt. For example, on some Russian Ladas operating in rather difficult Russian conditions, it is recommended to change the belt after 180 thousand km, which looks rather strange. At the same time, on Renault cars, the belts of even the most High Quality from the world's best manufacturers are designed for 60,000 km in Russia, and 120,000 km in Europe.

Replacing the timing belt should be carried out not only in accordance with the maintenance regulations, manufacturer’s recommendations or when it breaks, but also when signs of malfunction appear or in the following cases:

• The timing belt is very old (more than 5 years, even if it has not been used).
• Cracks, abrasions and “fluffing”.
• Destruction of belt teeth.
• Depressurization and leaks in the timing case (oil and coolant destroy the rubber base of the belt).
• If the belt is worn out, the engine may start and run unsteadily.
• Belt wear can cause an ignition failure, after which the engine begins to detonate and run noisily, and exhaust pipe Black smoke starts coming out.

Important! Late replacement timing belt can lead to valve deformation, camshaft failure, bending of connecting rods and piston skirts.

Choosing a timing belt, which is the most important element of the engine, is an important and responsible matter. Wrong selection belt by technical parameters or skimping on quality can lead to serious problems and costly repairs.

If the belt breaks or its teeth are critically worn, there is a high probability that the pistons will hit the valves and bend them. That's why When choosing a new timing belt, it is important to adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Don't save money and don't buy the cheapest belts(can choose average price). You should especially not save money if the car is operated in extremely harsh conditions. A high-quality, reliable belt will pay for itself many times over.
2. The best option is to buy the original, which was installed by the engine manufacturer. For greater reliability when choosing, in order to avoid mistakes in the size and shape of the teeth, it is better to remove the old belt and show it to the seller in the store so that he can select the same one. Special attention Pay attention to the width, length and shape of the belt teeth. If it is not possible to buy the original, select an analogue that is closest in quality and parameters to the original.
3. The belt should feel smooth and free of roughness to the touch., and also should not have small potholes or pores. The belt teeth must be free of sagging, only small burrs are acceptable.
4. An important property of the timing belt is its elasticity. The more elastic it is, the longer its service life will be. When purchasing, you can compare the elasticity of several different belts and determine which one is the most “oaky” (hard).
5. If possible, compare the catalog or article number of the old belt with the numbers on the new product. They should be on the back (smooth) side of the belt.
6. On the market car parts a large number of fakes are sold. To protect yourself from purchasing a low-quality part, it is better to buy a belt at retail outlets owned by official dealers. It is also recommended to purchase a complete set: a belt with rollers in one sealed package, with instructions. The most frequently counterfeited products are from manufacturers such as Bosch and Gates. To check, you can compare the numbers (on the back) of several identical products - the numbers should be different. If the numbers on all products are the same, then you are dealing with a fake.
7. Online shopping is common today, but do right choice timing belt via the Internet is very difficult.

Before starting work on replacing the timing belt, you should prepare and have the following tools ready:

• Wheel wrench (balloon).
• Open-end, socket and ring wrenches. Dimensions depending on the car brand and engine modification.
• A 5mm hex may be required.
• A wrench specifically designed for the tension roller.
• Jack.
• Flashlight.

Additionally, you should take into account the recommendation of car manufacturers - when replacing the timing belt, also change the rollers, and, if possible, the water pump. Although if the pump rotates perfectly and has minimal play, then you don’t have to buy a new one, but leave the old one.

Also, some engine modifications may have 2 belts, which are recommended to be changed both at once. Therefore, when preparing to replace your timing belt, you need to be aware of how many belts to buy.

You also need to prepare the car itself:

• Place the car on a level surface.
• Pull (raise) the handbrake.
• Place safety chocks under the wheels.

Before starting work, please note that 16-valve engines have 2 camshaft with a separate toothed pulley (gear) for each. The belt for a 16-valve engine is always longer than that of an 8-valve engine, since in addition to the water pump gear and tensioner, the belt additionally passes through an auxiliary support (guide) roller.

Where the timing marks are located, and what type they look like, look in the “Operation and Repair Manual” of your car.

1. Raise the hood and disconnect the battery terminal “to minus” (the key in the ignition switch should be “off”) so that the brake lights do not light up in vain and “just in case”.

   Important! Before removing the terminal from the battery and turning off the power to the car, you need to study the “Operation and Repair Manual” of the car. In some cars, you cannot disconnect the terminal from the battery (!), as the adaptations in the electronic control system will be reset. In this case, you need to work more carefully with a car that is not de-energized.

2. To ensure free access to the necessary mechanisms, you will need to remove the wheel, engine cover, protection, and generator belt. Depending on the make of the car and engine modification, work may require removing the power steering fluid reservoir or adsorber, or the air conditioner bracket, intercooler with terminals, air intake (or something else).
3. Using a hexagon, unscrew the screws securing the belt and gear guard.
4. If there is a crankshaft position sensor (CPS), disconnect the connector with wires from it.
5. Unscrew the bolt and remove the timing belt tensioning roller. Also remove the support (guide) roller, if there is one.
6. Remove the old timing belt.
7. Check the position of the mark on one camshaft gear (on an 8-valve engine) or on two gears on two camshafts (on a 16-valve engine) in relation to the marks on the timing case. If the marks do not coincide, to set them in the desired position (against each other), you need to turn the camshaft with a wrench using the bolt securing the gear to the camshaft.
8. To check the alignment of the mark on the crankshaft gear with the mark on the oil pump housing, unscrew and pull out the crankshaft toothed pulley with a special washer. If the pulley bolt does not unscrew, then you can rest the handle of the L-shaped key against the rod, put on the negative terminal of the battery (if it has been removed) and turn it with the starter. After unscrewing the bolt, remove the terminal back.

   You can also use a pneumatic impact wrench or have an assistant engage the highest gear and apply the brake while you unscrew the bolt. If the gear mark is set incorrectly, then screw the fastening bolt into place and turn the gear by this bolt with a wrench until the mark on the crankshaft gear is correctly aligned with the mark on the oil pump housing.

9. Install the support (guide) roller, if equipped.
10. Place the new timing belt over the gear first. crankshaft, place it on the support roller, then on the camshaft gear (or two gears, if there are two camshafts) and then on the pump gear. In this case, you need to control the position of the marks on one or two camshaft gears. If the marks are lost, they must be set correctly immediately.
11. Install the tension roller and tighten it loosely, without tightly tightening the bolt until it stops.
12. Check the evenness of the belt pad. Then tighten the belt using a special key for the tension roller, turning the roller counterclockwise (or in the direction of the arrows on the roller body). Next, holding the roller with a special key in the desired position, fix the position of the roller by tightening the fastening bolt until it stops, with a little force.
13. You can check the belt tension with one hand by turning the belt lengthwise with your fingers. A well-tensioned belt should not turn more than 90°.
14. On final stage reinstall and secure all dismantled elements in the reverse order.

After completing all the work, you need to start the engine and check the work by ear. If the belt is installed and tensioned correctly, there should be no abnormal sounds. If you hear a hum or whistle from the roller, it means the belt is a little too tight. A slight loosening of the belt can be done using the same tension roller by turning it clockwise (or counter-arrows on the body of the roller itself).

If, after replacing the timing belt, the car begins to pull poorly, the engine will detonate a little and run unevenly. idle speed(and the tachometer needle will jump), and there will be a black exhaust - this means that when replacing the timing belt, the marks were set incorrectly. Everything will have to be repeated all over again.

Conclusion

Above was perhaps the simplest (classic) example of replacing a timing belt. However, the labor intensity of replacing the timing belt may differ and be of varying degrees of complexity. It depends on the make and modification of the car, as well as on the modification of the engine. But, in general, the principle is the same everywhere.

Before you begin to replace the timing belt yourself, it is strongly recommended that you study in detail the “Repair Instructions” for your car. And this needs to be done in advance, and not just before the start of work - so that there is time to calmly figure out where everything is, what it looks like, what will need to be removed and how, etc.

November 11, 2017

Timing Belt, as one of the main parts of the car, guarantees the correct operation of the engine. At the same time, not every novice driver knows where he is and what he looks like. In fact, drivers become aware of its existence when it breaks down and requires replacement. The worst thing is when it breaks down on the way, in which case you will have to change it yourself without outside help. This is exactly what we will talk about in this article.

With the help of a gas distribution mechanism (GRM), the inlet of the fuel mixture and the emission of exhaust gases are ensured in a timely manner. The gas distribution mechanism (GDM) includes:

• camshaft,
• mechanical programmer,
• drives, links,
• valves and other elements.

Of course, this information will not affect the replacement of the belt itself, but I think it will not be superfluous.

Remember, the correct operation of the gas distribution mechanism is affected by the synchronism of the camshaft and crankshaft. Moreover, the timing belt plays an important role here, since with its help the camshaft rotates with a certain speed, which is half the angular speed of the crankshaft. In addition, thanks to the timing belt, engine pulsation is evened out. internal combustion and ensures uniform operation of the pulleys.

WHY DOES THE TIMING SHAFT ROTATE?

Under the camshaft pulley, if you look there, there is a pair of rollers - the one on the right is a support roller, and the one on the left is a tensioner. The support roller has a hole slightly offset from its axis. If you are replacing the timing belt yourself, then this fact must be taken into account during adjustment. This way you can properly debug the operation of the engine using the belt.

When setting the valve timing, pay attention to the special marks applied to various parts - pulleys, oil pump housing, etc.

REPLACE YOUR OWN TIMING BELT

Let's look at the process of replacing a timing belt with your own hands using the example of a car. Ford Focus.

Taking into account the data specified in the documentation, the belt needs to be changed periodically, and not in case of damage to its integrity. In this case, installing a new belt is recommended after every 160,000 km. Since the car has a complex design, the cost of replacing this part will be higher. Therefore, it is cheaper to change the timing belt yourself.

To change a damaged belt, you will need to prepare necessary tools. You can't do without:

• a special key for adjusting the tension roller;
• spanner wrench (17);
• crowbar or large screwdriver;
• key for 15;
• tool with which the retaining rings will be removed.

When does a timing belt need to be replaced?

You can visually assess the condition of the belt and whether it needs to be replaced - to do this, bend the casing. To fully inspect the belt, the engine must be cranked. If there are cracks or threads on the inspected part, it will require immediate replacement. Otherwise, serious problems with the engine will arise.

It is also recommended to install a new belt:

• if there are defects;
• if it is clearly visible that the belt teeth have worn out from the inside;
• if there are oil stains on the belt.

How to remove the old belt?

The first step is to remove the timing case, which is usually secured with two bolts - unscrew them. Then we proceed to unscrewing the bolts intended for attaching the crankcase protection. Here we use keys No. 17 and 13. Removing the motor protection is carried out to simplify access to the drive, which needs a thorough inspection.

After this, unscrew the mounting bolts on the compressor and remove the compressor belt.

To de-energize all contacts, remove the terminal located on battery. To protect yourself completely, it is better to place the terminal in a rubber case. Next, we proceed to removing the power steering fluid tank and coolant pipes.

Having unscrewed the bolts holding the generator, we proceed to remove the terminal. In this case, it is removed along with the chip located on the right. You also need to remove the generator itself - this is done after unscrewing the bottom bolt. This way you will have the opportunity to reach the timing belt.

Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bolts and remove the pump pulley.

Now comes the most important point– removing the belt protection. To do this, you will need to get rid of five bolts located at the top, bottom and center (in that order).

Install new belt

So you removed the old belt with your own hands, now you have to install a new one. It is worth noting that the cost new part may vary, its cost is determined by the manufacturer.

Before replacing the harness, it is worth fixing the flywheel - this will prevent it from moving when you install a new belt. To do this, you need to remove the starter and replace it with a device that fixes the flywheel. When performing this type of work, professionals do not need to remove the starter - they get by by unscrewing the bolt in its lower part.

When setting the clutch, the gearbox should be in “neutral”, while the clutch turns 11 times clockwise. After this, in place of the plug we screw in the bolt that secures the crankshaft. Don't forget to mark the position of the flywheel; this mark will be useful if adjustments are necessary.

To remove the motor mount, use a jack and unscrew the 4 bolts, then remove the mount holder.

Inspect the unscrewed crankshaft bolt for wear and replace it if necessary.

While rocking the pulley holder, remove the pulley itself. And do not forget to secure the butterfly mounted on the coupling.

The timing belt and rollers should be changed only after the cover has been removed toothed pulley. After loosening the timing belt tension roller, a pin is installed, which makes it easy to remove the rollers and belt.

Now let's move on to the replacement itself. After installing a new timing belt, you need to tighten the tensioner. If the rollers are worn out, they are replaced.

After tightening the crankshaft bolt, be sure to check the mark on the flywheel, after which the parts are assembled in the order in which disassembly was carried out. At the end of the work, it is checked how the machine works.

It is not difficult to carry out such repairs yourself. It is clear that for this you need to have basic knowledge in the field of car repair and at least a little understanding of its “stuffing”. If you do not know this, then it is better to use the services of a car service.

And motorists, not bad knowledgeable about the device their car, they will cope with the task without much difficulty. Moreover, if you follow the instructions, it will be easy to do.

In the end, I would like to note the importance of regularly replacing the timing belt, since ignoring the manufacturer’s recommendations will lead to engine failure. And its repair will cost much more. You should constantly monitor the condition of this part, since it premature exit failure can be influenced by various factors - for example, driving style, road and climatic conditions.

The car requires constant care, only then can the owner hope for its reliability and safety.

On car engine Attachments are installed (generator, air conditioning compressor), driven by a poly-V-belt. Over time, the product will wear and crack, which can lead to rupture. The need to change the alternator belt yourself may arise if a problem occurs on the road and away from a service center.

[Hide]

When should you change the alternator belt?

The frequency of replacing the electric generator drive belt is indicated in the vehicle maintenance instructions. It should be remembered that the period on the same machine supplied to different markets may differ. This is due to different climatic conditions and dust levels in the air, which additionally destroy the material of the product.

For example, the Volvo company recommends making an initial replacement after 80 thousand km, and each subsequent change is performed after 60 thousand km. At the same time, on cars from the European market, the belt is changed every 180 thousand km. On VAZ cars, the product rarely lasts more than 30 thousand kilometers.

A typical sign of a stretched belt is a whistling sound that occurs when starting the engine or after driving through a puddle. The source of the sound is the strap material sliding along the surface of the pulley. Usually the whistle quickly disappears and appears again when starting the engine or after another puddle. In this case, the owner needs to check the belt tension and try to bring it to the standard.

Worn belt (right)

What affects wear?

Factors influencing the life of the drive belt:

1. Product operating conditions. Ingress of dust, abrasives or chemical substances significantly reduce the life of the strap. Long-term use has a negative effect on the material. low temperatures air.
2. Condition of pulleys. The appearance of beating or deformation leads to the destruction of the tracks and edges of the belt.
3. Tension. If the tension is too low or too high, the belt will wear out at an accelerated rate.
4. Belt release date. Rubber is susceptible to aging, so the strap may break down while in packaging in the warehouse. Violations of storage rules have an additional negative impact.
5. Belt manufacturer. There are products made by small companies from low-quality materials. Such straps can break after several thousand kilometers.

Signs of belt wear and product replacement are demonstrated in a video filmed by Vladimir Bazekin.

How to check the belt?

The condition of the belt should be checked not only when a whistle appears, but also periodically. Most car manufacturers recommend visually checking the condition of the strap and tension every 6 months or 25 thousand km. It doesn’t matter whether the car is in use or parked.

Approximate check sequence:

1. Open the car hood. located on the crankshaft pulley side. It is necessary to check the condition and tension carefully, keeping your hands away from the cooling system fans. This is due to the fact that the fan can start at any time, even on a cold engine.
2. The visual condition is checked by turning the inner part of the belt towards the light. Cracks, abrasion and delamination of the product are unacceptable. If damage appears in a small area, the belt is considered unsuitable for further use. The element is pulled by turning the crankshaft behind the central nut.
3. The tension is checked by measuring the deflection under a load of 10 kg. When the distance between the pulley axes is up to 300 mm, the deflection should be 6 mm. When the distance between the axles is within 300-450 mm, a deflection of 12 mm is allowed.

You can check the tension of the generator belt by applying the maximum load, i.e. by turning on all energy consumers except the starter. If the whistle does not occur, then the tension is sufficient.

How to tighten a belt

If there are no cracks or tears on the surface of the belt, then you can try to tighten it. A similar procedure is relevant for cars Russian production and foreign cars equipped with a mechanical manual tensioner, which is often the generator itself. The belt is tensioned until it stops slipping along the pulleys. At the same time, the car owner must remember that excessive tension loads and disables them.

If the tension of the strap does not allow for normal operation, the part must be replaced. It is prohibited to install spacers under the tension rollers, which will allow you to select an excessive belt length.

Instructions for replacing the drive belt

Replacing the alternator drive belt does not cause problems for most car enthusiasts. After removing a worn strap, it is recommended to inspect the wear pattern. If there is damage to the edges and contact part, this may indicate misalignment of the pulleys. In this case, you need to find the damaged element and replace it. Installing a new belt on a damaged pulley is pointless, since the rubber will quickly wear out on sharp edges. When replacing a belt, you must follow the sequence of steps recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.

When replacing the alternator drive belt, it may be necessary to install a new tension pulley and associated fasteners. Information on the list of parts to be replaced can be found in the vehicle repair and operating instructions.

What will be needed for replacement?

Before changing the alternator belt, you will need to prepare a set of tools and materials (the maximum list is given):

• wrenches and sockets;
• new belt and tension roller;
• rod for fixing the roller;
• mounting blade for removing the belt;
• protective gloves;
• a sheet of paper and a pencil for drawing an installation diagram.

A new non-original drive belt may be several millimeters longer than the standard product. The difference in length will be compensated by a tensioning device.

Scheme

Installing the belt on engines with two or three pulleys is not difficult. The situation changes when the belt is installed on a motor equipped with a large number of pulleys. In this case, it is recommended to draw a diagram of the installation of the product. Such an event will speed up the installation process and avoid errors.

Example of belt routing on a Chevrolet Cobalt

Circuit designations:

• 1 — crankshaft pulley;
• 2 — generator pulley;
• 3 - guide roller;
• 4 — air conditioning compressor clutch;
• 5 — pump pulley and additional drive pulley for the amplifier pump;
• 6 - belt;
• 7 - tension roller.

Algorithm of actions

The procedure differs depending on the engine design and quantity attachments. Below are step by step instructions replacing belts on common cars. On others vehicles the operation uses a similar technology.

By car VAZ Granta

You can replace the belt on a VAZ Granta car without a tensioner according to the following algorithm:

1. Cut off the old strap using a knife.
2. Turn the generator mounting bolt from below 3-4 turns.
3. Unscrew the top mounting bolt completely and remove it from the hole.
4. Push the generator forward until the mounting ear is inserted into the bracket.
5. Secure the mechanism with wire or other means.
6. Place the belt on the generator pulley and top part crankshaft pulley. Some car owners use an additional device that holds the strap on the device while putting it on.
7. Turn the motor shaft with a wrench to fully install the belt.
8. Fix the generator in its original place. Check the operation of the components at full load of the generator and at different crankshaft speeds.

On Kia Sid

You can change the alternator belt as follows:

1. Remove the fixing bolt located on the top of the generator.
2. Lift the clamp up, removing the bolt from the guide groove.
3. Rotate the device relative to the bottom bolt. If the mount is “stuck”, then the generator is turned by light blows with a hammer applied through a wooden block.
4. Remove the worn belt and pressure roller.
5. After this, you need to mount a new roller and only then can you put on the belt.
6. Tension the strap as recommended in the operating instructions. Check the operation of the unit, if a whistle appears, increase the tension slightly.

For Volkswagen Polo Sedan

An example of replacing a belt on a Volkswagen Polo Sedan engine equipped with an automatic tensioner:

1. Loosen the belt tension by releasing the tension roller fixing bolt. Nut size 16 mm.
2. Turn the roller mounting bracket counterclockwise. Turning takes place with effort as the tension spring is compressed.
3. Carefully remove the belt from the crankshaft pulleys and drive units.
4. Remove the roller using a 16 mm socket inserted into the recess under the generator. If the tension roller does not change, then it is fixed in the spin position using a metal rod inserted into the hole in the housing.
5. Place the belt on the pulleys, then carefully release the tension roller. The tensioner automatically adjusts the tension level of the product.

Video “Maintenance and replacement of the alternator belt”

Maintenance and replacement of the alternator belt are shown in a video tutorial filmed by the avto-blogger channel. ru.

• How often should the V-belt/ribbed belt be replaced and how to choose a suitable replacement?
• Modern belt technology and the benefits of Bosch components
• Recommendations from Bosch Auto Service network specialists for replacing belts

What is the function of the accessory drive belt?

Despite its name, the drive belt auxiliary units plays an important role in the operation of the car - without it, it is impossible to reliably supply the car with electrical energy. In addition, the power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, water pump or engine cooling fan.

During operation, the drive belt is subject to wear. Over time, it loses its original properties, requiring timely replacement. And if you could still put up with the lack of air conditioning in the event of a belt break, then if the power steering suddenly fails, an emergency situation may arise! Therefore, the condition of the poly V-belt or V-belt must be monitored. Don't wait for it to break.

How often should the accessory drive belt be replaced?

The accessory drive belt usually does not have a fixed service life. The regulations only define the interval for periodic checking of the belt. After all, the drive system of auxiliary units may be under different operating conditions, so components are replaced when defects are detected during the inspection process - extraneous noise, kinks or cracks in the belt, its contamination or damage, malfunctions of rollers and tensioners. Condition monitoring is usually carried out every 30 or 60 thousand kilometers of the vehicle.

How to choose a new belt?

To correctly select products, Bosch recommends using the single online spare parts catalog Bosch Automotive Catalog, where suitable components can be selected by make, model, year of manufacture and modification of the vehicle.

Modern production technologies and advantages of Bosch components

The use of high-quality synthetic materials in the production of Bosch belts allows for reliable operation of the drive system and long service life. In research centers, scientists and developers are using the latest polymer bases, and are also developing methods for connecting different structures into a single external form. Bosch produces both poly-V-ribbed and bevel-toothed belts, which provide a high coefficient of friction and transmission of the required torque. Engines modern cars are becoming more and more compact. Reflecting this trend, manufacturers are increasingly eliminating tensioners in accessory drive systems, preferring to use high-tech multi-V belts with an elastic backing. They became suitable technical solution and are used in many modern models cars.

As a company with direct contacts with engine developers and car manufacturers, Bosch has the most up-to-date information on technical requirements to drive systems. That is why the characteristics of Bosch belts clearly correspond to factory parameters.

Taking into account the specifics of vehicle operation, the temperature and chemical stability of the materials used in the manufacture of belts is taken into account. Bosch components perform just as reliably in the hottest climatic conditions of the equator as in polar latitudes. In the latter, maintaining the vehicle’s energy balance is a primary task for service station repairmen. Bosch drive belts have proven their worth over many years of use around the world. best qualities. In addition, Bosch belts meet the highest demands on wear resistance. This ensures uninterrupted operation of the auxiliary drive system for a long time.

V-belt or poly-V-belt and generator are the most important components of a single system

Speaking about the accessory drive belt, one cannot fail to note another component of the drive system - the generator. Modern generators are devices that work in close cooperation with all electronic systems. Today, when you open the hood of many cars, you will see a Bosch generator there. Depending on the application model, these devices are adapted to operate in 12 or 24 volt networks. This makes it possible to expand the market and coverage of products not only for passenger cars, but also trucks and special equipment. Designers also pay great attention to the unification of generators in relation to various lines of engines. As a system supplier, Bosch also provides the widest range of spare parts for generator repair shops.

The production of generators allows Bosch to offer consumers belts that best suit the requirements of the drive system - whether a car or cargo equipment.

Recommendations from Bosch Auto Service network specialists for checking and replacing belts

When inspecting the drive system of auxiliary units, first of all, you should pay attention to the weakening of friction forces - belt sagging, lubricant on the pulleys and belt, abrasive ingress, etc. You should pay attention to the components of the drive system if there is increased noise or whistling of the belts, often manifests itself after starting the engine in the cold season.

Bosch has released a special poster that clearly demonstrates the types of belt damage that require belt replacement, indicating possible reasons occurrence of malfunctions and methods for solving them.

When replacing a belt, carefully review the drive system configuration. It would be useful, just in case, to take a photograph or, for example, sketch a diagram of the correct location of the belt.

To remove the old belt, you need to loosen its tension. Modern drive systems typically use an automatic tensioner to ensure proper belt tension. But there are also systems in which it is adjusted manually. Tensioner-less systems using elastic ribbed belts are also increasingly being used. It should be noted that if an elastic belt is installed in the original configuration, it cannot be replaced with a regular one, and vice versa. In addition, the installation of such belts must be done using special tools, for example Bosch Elastic Tool Kit 1.0 and Elastic Tool Kit 2.0.

Before installing a new belt, it is recommended to compare it with the dismantled one to ensure accuracy of selection and full compatibility with other drive components. It is also necessary to pay attention to checking the condition of the rollers, tensioners and other drive components. If any of them are faulty, it can affect the operation of the entire system. For example, if the alternator, air conditioning compressor, or idler bearings are worn or not working properly, this can cause accelerated wear and rapid failure of the new belt. If necessary, replace faulty components.

When installing a new belt, it is necessary to ensure its correct installation and tension. At the same time, it is very important not to use unsuitable tools, so as not to damage the pulleys of the drive system units. Deformation or misalignment of the pulleys will lead to rapid wear of the belt, increased vibrations and the appearance of extraneous noise. The belt tension should be adjusted according to the type of tensioner and the manufacturer's instructions.

Correct selection components and qualified belt replacement can be carried out at the nearest Bosch Auto Service network station. All necessary information on belt replacement is available to service specialists at software Bosch ESI, which is used in conjunction with diagnostic equipment Bosch.

Good day to all! In our material today, I propose to discuss such a topic as replacing the alternator belt.

If there is severe wear and tear, the generator may simply stop working because its drive belt has failed. Do not forget that in some cases the fault lies not in the wear of the belt itself, but in the components of the entire assembly. For example, motorists are often faced with the need to replace the tensioner pulley bearing. But some cars provide for the use of alternator belts without a tensioner.

In practice, changing the node is not difficult. It is much more important to notice problems in a timely manner so that a breakdown does not take you by surprise, at the most inopportune moment.

Checking for wear and its signs

Before you try to change the unit yourself, you need to make sure that it has actually exhausted its resource, does not perform the functions assigned to it and requires replacement.

The most important sign of wear is the appearance of a characteristic whistle during generator operation. This whistle can be heard by applying an appropriate load to the generating equipment. In practice it looks simple. You need to start the air conditioner or just turn on the high or low beam headlights. Next, the engine starts and the gas pedal is pressed. If at this moment a sweat appears from the engine compartment, the belt is loose.

Whistling and loosening of tension does not indicate complete wear. In some cases, it is only slightly damaged, but still suitable for further use.

A whistle does not signal a critical failure of the unit. But this is an obvious sign that the element will soon have to be changed.

When the device wears out and the tension decreases, the generator continues to function. Even if its efficiency decreases and the charge may be partially supplied, you can still get to a car service center or your own garage. But as soon as you find out what the price of work at a service station is for such a procedure, you will probably want to personally understand the nuances of replacing the alternator belt. There is nothing complicated here. But you will gain additional experience and save a significant part of your budget.

The constant noise from the generator is considered much worse than whistling. Moreover, it can appear under load and without any impact load from electrically dependent equipment.

When replacement is required

As you already understand, there are several ways to diagnose problems with the alternator belt.

There are several basic checking methods to get an answer about the current state of the node.

• Determination method by ear. So you may hear whistling and constant noise. The first symptom is not fatal, but already indicates the poor condition of the belt. In the second case, everything is much more serious;
• Visual inspection. When examining the condition of the belt, you can find breaks, cracks, traces of abrasions, frayed edges, pulley displacement, threads that have appeared, oil stains on the belt surface, etc.;
• Simple logic and observation. Many motorists know that initially a low-quality belt was used in the generator unit. You shouldn't expect long-term work from him. Also, some cars have a sensor that monitors the condition of the generator.

The belt may wear out due to natural reasons during operation. But problems often arise from the tension mechanism. As a result, the belt itself, as well as the components associated with it, suffer.

A simple replacement is not enough here. More serious repairs will be required with partial or complete replacement of generator parts.

Cope with self-replacement such a unit as a generator belt is not difficult. Owners of many cars took everything into their own hands.

You often come across advice from car owners themselves who talk about personal experience generator repair using an example:

• Renault Logan 1.6 8 valves;
• Lada Kalina;
• Lada Priora 16 valves with air conditioning;
• Ford Focus;
• VAZ 2110;
• Lada Granta;
• VAZ 2107;
• VAZ 2114;
• Mitsubishi Lancer 9;
• VAZ Classic;
• Daewoo Lanos;
• Chevrolet Aveo, etc.

When replacing, be sure to purchase a part of the same type. Products come with tracks of different quantities. If you choose a belt that does not match your generator, problems will arise during its installation and further operation.

If the car is designed to use a poly-V-belt, a V-belt is unlikely to be suitable. But this is a completely different issue that requires separate consideration.

Features of the replacement procedure

I strongly advise you to look at the operating and repair manual for your particular vehicle. The regulations clearly indicate the diagram and provide instructions on how to correctly change the belt. Although the cost of the unit is insignificant, you are unlikely to want to buy a product and immediately ruin it.

But I can give some general tips and recommendations, which may be enough to correctly understand the essence of replacing such a component of the generator assembly.

• To remove the belt, you need to reduce the degree of its tension;
• Cars use various tensioning mechanisms or simply a tensioner;
• In some cases, this is something like a bolt, or a semicircular element;
• Before removing, be sure to write down or draw a diagram of the belt location. This is extremely important, since the new one must be installed in exactly the same way;
• When adjusting the tension with a bolt, you need to start turning it in the right direction;
• Each rotation of the device reduces the degree of tension;
• As a result, after several rotations the belt can be easily removed by hand;
• Carefully compare the dimensions, thickness and structure of the new and old belt. It is extremely important to use the correct part for your vehicle;
• Now the new belt is placed on the generator;
• The tensioner is turned by the tension mechanism in the direction opposite to removal.

Be sure to control the tension. Under no circumstances should the element dangle or droop. But you can also tighten it, so dose the applied force.

After finishing the installation, be sure to start the engine and turn on the generator maximum load. To do this, you should turn on all the devices in the form of headlights, audio system, air conditioning, etc. If you feel a slight whistle, you simply did not tighten the belt to the desired degree of tension.