At the VAZ “classic” from the factory, the installation of a power steering is not provided. However, the owners of these cars experience some inconvenience in driving at low speeds due to the tight rotation of the "steering wheel". To make the management easier and more comfortable, an electromechanical amplifier can be installed on the VAZ 2107.

VAZ 2107 electric power steering - is it necessary

To equip your "seven" with electric power steering (EUR) or not - depends only on your personal wishes and capabilities. In order to determine and understand whether there is really a need to install this mechanism, it is necessary to consider the positive and negative aspects of this type of refinement, and then draw the appropriate conclusions.

The main advantages of the introduction of electric power steering include:

• reliability, efficiency, compactness, which is ensured due to the lack of hydraulics;
• easier, more convenient and safer driving, especially for women and the elderly;
• simple installation;
• the ability to mount on any classic model "Lada";
• no additional care is required during operation.

The installation of the EUR can be attributed to tuning, i.e., improving the initial characteristics of the car.

Of the minuses, we can distinguish:

• material costs;
• expensive repairs;
• the need to install a more powerful generator on the car (from 100 A).

A powerful generator is required due to the fact that only the EUR engine consumes about 50 A. Therefore, if there is extra money and a desire to improve driving, then why not do it. In addition, installing an electromechanical power steering is much cheaper than a power steering.

The introduction of the power steering on the VAZ 2107 is a complex and expensive procedure that requires the use of additional components and serious modifications to the steering.

The principle of operation of the electric amplifier

Before you consider installing an electric power steering (EUR) on the "seven", you need to figure out what this mechanism is. The main elements of the node are:

• electric motor;
• mechanical gear gear;
• steering wheel sensor;
• rudder torque sensor;
• control unit (BU).

The control unit receives signals about the speed at which the car is moving and about the speed of the crankshaft synchronously with the rotation of the "steering wheel". The control unit calculates data on the magnitude and polarity of the power supplied to the electric motor. An additional force is created from the electric motor through a mechanical gear transmission, which facilitates the control of the front wheels. The force can be applied both to the steering shaft and to the steering rack, which depends on the class of the car and the specific design of the electric amplifier. Since we are talking about the classic "Lada", then on these models no steering rack was installed.

Design of an electromechanical power steering: 1-electric motor; 2-worm; 3-worm wheel; 4-way clutch; 5-potentiometer; 6-casing; 7-steering shaft; 8-pin torque sensor on the steering shaft; 9-pin motor power

The design of the EUR for passenger cars is small and is mounted directly on the steering column. The mechanism is located in the passenger compartment, which ensures its protection from moisture, dirt and dust and extends the service life. There are two main operating modes in the electric power steering, which depend on the speed of the vehicle:

1. When driving at low speeds, the device exerts the greatest effort on the steering mechanism to facilitate driving. Thus, the steering wheel becomes “light”, which allows it to be rotated with the finger of one hand.
2. Moving at high speeds, the steering wheel becomes more “heavy”, which creates the effect of the wheels returning to the middle position. This principle of operation improves traffic safety.

What EUR to put on the VAZ 2107

On the VAZ "seven" you can put one of two options for electric power steering:

• from "Niva";
• special kit.

In the first case, the purchase of the mechanism will cost 20 thousand rubles. In the second - the device is suitable for installation on any classic "Lada" and at a cost will come out about the same money. VAZ 2107 can be equipped with one and the other mechanism. However, there are complaints about electric amplifiers from Niva: some car owners complain about their unexpected failure, which is dangerous during driving, as management becomes impossible. As for the factory EUR for the "classics", then there are no complaints about them.

What is included in the package of delivery of the electric amplifier

• electric power amplifier;
• adapter plate;
• countershaft;
• shift paddles;
• wires
• egnition lock;
• steering wheel from Priors or Viburnum;
• decorative casing;
• speed sensor.

How to install

To install the EUR on the VAZ 2107, in addition to the parts from the kit, you will need a standard set of tools consisting of keys and screwdrivers. The assembly procedure is carried out in the following sequence:

1. We de-energize the on-board network of the car, for which we remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. We remove a decorative cover of a steering column, unscrewing corresponding screws of fastening.
3. Dismantle the old steering wheel and universal joint.
4. According to the instructions, we mount the new mechanism through a special plate.
5. We lower ourselves under the car, unscrew the speedometer cable from the gearbox and install the speed sensor, onto which we wind the cable.
6. We connect the wiring according to the diagram.
7. We establish a protective cover.
8. We connect the terminal to the battery and check the operability of the electric amplifier. With proper installation, problems should not arise.

Video: Installing the EUR for the example of the VAZ 21214

Inspection pass and certificates

Before you install the EUR on your "seven", it is worth considering the issue of passing inspection. The fact is that the installation of such a device is a change in the design of the vehicle, as a result of which there will be difficulties in completing maintenance in the absence of appropriate certificates. In order not to have any problems, it is necessary to install the product in a certified VAZ car service. In addition, you need to get the appropriate documents: a certificate from the manufacturer and the service where the installation was carried out. If you have all the necessary papers, then you can go through a technical inspection without nuances. If, however, conflicts arise, the employees of the inspection station need to be asked to refuse in writing, indicating the reasons.

Despite the apparent complexity of such a device as an electric power steering, its installation and connection will not take much effort and time. You need to prepare a set of mechanisms with the necessary tools, and then follow the step-by-step instructions according to which you can install and connect the device.

Before installing the power steering on the VAZ 2107, it is worth studying the design and the main task of this element. The function of the part is to create additional force on the wheels of the car when entering a turn. This is achieved due to the presence of an electric drive, which is supplied with most modern cars.

1 Power steering: its advantages and disadvantages

A hydraulic booster is a component of the steering mechanism that is designed to facilitate the process of driving. The part is designed to increase the stability of the machine control system. In this case, if the electric amplifier fails, the car continues to maintain control and a given trajectory. However, turning the steering wheel will become much harder.

Almost all mechanics with experience in working with the VAZ 2107, highlight the following advantages of the hydraulic booster for this car model:

• high degree of reliability;
• increased informational content;
• modest oil costs;
• convenience in adjusting the technical characteristics of the part.

When choosing a hydraulic amplifier, you should pay attention to its circuit. The first of the two possible is the transfer of effort to the steering rack, and the second to its roller. Drivers distinguish 2 systems of such amplifiers. The first is characterized by the presence of parallel drives, which transmit the force from the motor to the steering wheel. In this case, both the roller and the steering rack receive additional traction. The second system is equipped with two gears connected to one mechanism. The design of such an amplifier includes an asynchronous motor. The steering rack is equipped with two bands of teeth, one of which is the drive of the amplifier.

In addition to the advantages, an electric amplifier has its drawbacks. These include the considerable cost of the part and the complexity of the installation. In addition, the installation of the element dramatically changes the principle of operation of the machine control system. Do not also forget that the VAZ 2107, equipped with a hydraulic booster, needs regular inspections and maintenance. If you ignore even the slightest malfunction, this may lead to the need for a major overhaul of the entire machine control system.

2 The design of the hydraulic amplifier on the "seven"

Each hydraulic type amplifier has a specific design, due to which it is suitable for specific car models. The detail that the domestic "sevens" are equipped with is no exception. The element consists of a pump that provides pressure and fluid circulation. The design also includes a distributor with a steering gear, which sucks in air. Air drives oil into the hydraulic cylinder or back to the tank. The hydraulic cylinder itself is designed to convert the pressure of the working fluid into the movement of the rod and piston.

The coordinated operation of the amplifier is ensured by oil, which is designed to transfer the force of the pump to the hydraulic cylinder, as well as to prevent friction of the elements. Oil is poured into the tank, in which there is a filter and a partition to indicate the liquid level. All hoses connected to the tank pump oil under high pressure, creating additional force for the steering wheel. Thanks to this design, the power steering on the VAZ 2107 provides stable operation of the machine control system when cornering at low and high speeds.

After leaving on a flat road, the amplifier automatically returns the wheels to their middle position. Based on this, experts advise installing the electric power amplifier on the domestic "seven".In addition to its basic functions, the element is capable of measuring the angle of rotation of each of the wheels. This is possible thanks to sensors that capture information and transmit it to the hydraulic booster. That, in turn, transmits torque to the steering gear. Maintaining a stable operation of the entire control system helps the electronic circuit of the manual and sensors.

3 Mounting a hydraulic amplifier

In most cases, the installation of an electric power steering is performed as an addition to. As we mentioned above, self-assembly of a part is not an easy task. However, knowing the principle of operation of the control system of his machine, each owner of the "seven" will be able to install the power steering.

To equip the car, you can use electric amplifiers from Priors   or Niva, but, as practice shows, such details often break, which leads to jamming of the steering wheel. In addition, the design features of these parts make their installation very difficult. Therefore, we will consider the self-installation of the original electric amplifier, manufactured by VAZ specifically for the "seven". In addition to connecting the amplifier, you will need to configure the gearbox speed sensor, otherwise the result of installation will be almost invisible in small gears.

If the speed sensor on the car is missing, then it is worth to purchase and install separately.

It is necessary to start installation by replacing the gearbox. To do this, carefully make a hole in the instrument panel of the machine and replace the wiring. To install the gearbox, it is necessary to mount an additional bracket to which the electric power pump is screwed. After that, we fasten the gearbox and proceed to replace the pulley on the crankshaft, and also connect the drive to the pump. It is also worth taking care of the placement of an expansion tank for oil. After you have chosen the best place and connected all the hoses to the tank, you can fill in the liquid.

In the process of installing an electric amplifier, it is worth checking regularly with the instructions. This will help to do the job correctly and not damage the car control system. The speed sensor is best connected to the gas pedal block of the machine. He should receive his power from the transmission circuitry.

"Russian Mercedes" or a VAZ 2107 car was at one time (1980s) one of the most popular domestic passenger cars. Currently, a car of this brand is a favorite object of our auto-craftsmen's experiments. The main task of tuning a VAZ 2107 car is to increase safety, increase comfort, convenience, and technical parameters of the car.

Also included is the refinement of the steering system. The design of the steering system of the VAZ 2107 car is built as a worm-roller. This design is not able to provide the necessary effort on the steering wheel and the "sharpness" of control.

We select the electric power steering on the VAZ 2107

To "sharpness" and reduce the gear ratio of rotation to the stop, it is necessary to modernize the steering and pendulum bipod. This makes the steering wheel heavier. To turn on the VAZ 2107 and so it is necessary to rather actively rotate the steering wheel, while the steering wheel stroke cannot be called "easy". In such conditions, steering comfort is achieved primarily by power steering.

You can apply, but it’s much better to choose electric power steering on the VAZ 2107. In particular, the electric power steering mechanism is suitable, it can be easily adapted to the VAZ 2107 without any difficulties.

Also for 16000-19000 rubles you can buy a special set of electric power steering on the VAZ 2107. Such an electric power steering on the VAZ has a fundamentally different operation scheme from the power steering. In addition, it functions more adequately, since it does not work directly from the motor, but from its own electric motor.

Electric power steering on VAZ 2107 effectively reduces the force required to rotate the steering wheel, improves the stability of the car, especially in emergency situations, relieves driver fatigue, reliable.

It does not require much effort for installation and maintenance. No special tools and equipment are also required, everything can be delivered independently. In this case, it is important to properly debug the operation of the speed sensor, which is placed on the gearbox.

In practice, after installing the electric power steering on the VAZ 2107, the effect of it did not appear when it was needed: at the moment of the start of movement, when driving at low speed. Normally, the electric booster began to work only after gaining speed. After debugging the speed sensor, everything began to work as it should.

The presence of an electric amplifier on a VAZ 2110 car allows you to improve the quality of the reaction to changes in the angle of rotation of the steering wheel, to improve maneuverability and handling. The practice of drivers proves that with electric power they feel more confident.

An important advantage is that in the presence of an electric amplifier, it is necessary to apply less effort to enter a turn, to make a maneuver. This has a positive effect on the human condition during long trips.

  A bit of history

The first electric amplifiers were released in Japan, the famous Toyota automaker. This happened in 1990, which was already quite distant for us.

Only 12 years later, in 2002, domestic engineers from Novosibirsk University began the development of the Russian electric power amplifier. After the completion of the project, for several years the unit was finalized and tested at the AvtoVAZ plant.

The task of the engineers was to create a worthy analogue of foreign amplifiers, to provide the unit with the necessary advantages, durability and reliability. At the same time, unlike imported analogues, our electric amplifiers were much cheaper.

Today, these devices are releasing Berdsk Electromechanical Plantlocated in Russia and a subsidiary of AvtoVAZ.

The main advantages of the first EU

An electric amplifier would not be so popular and popular without the obvious advantages that it brought along with its appearance. The strengths of this steering system include:

• The unit operates even when the power unit is turned off;
• The unit allows you to partially save fuel, which has a positive effect on fuel consumption;
• Manageability improves in all components;
• Reliability of maneuvers at the highest level;
• Excellent safety performance during regular use.

  Operating principle

An electromechanical amplifier is used to reduce the efforts made by the driver. Plus, the device allows you to actively return the wheels and steering wheel to its original position after the maneuver. That is, the EU quickly returns the car to straightforward movement, which positively affects safety.

The EU is a modular design integrated into the steering column. The module itself includes two main components:

• Synchronous power unit;
• Controller.

For owners of the VAZ 2110, it is important to install such a system if they want to use wide wheels that differ from the factory by several sizes. Anyway, if you want to feel real comfort and enjoy driving, and not with the last effort to turn the steering wheel, put the electric power. He will react even to the slightest touch.

Although this is against the rules, but now you don’t have to hold onto the steering wheel with both hands. The car will become more than obedient and controllable when moving with one hand.

Numerous trials have shown that EC machines are safer on the road..

Technical specifications

When installing the EU on your VAZ 2110, it is important to consider its technical characteristics. The node has certain requirements in this regard. Therefore, for the "tens" should choose a device that matches the parameters specified in the table.

Parameter	Indicator
Maximum torque compensation
The consumed amount of current (at Mmax 35 Nm and a rudder rotation speed of 360 degrees in 1 second)
Operating temperature range	from -40 to +85 degrees Celsius
Unit weight	9.5 kilograms
Electronically controlled motor	Inductive Reactive
Direction of rotation	Reversible
Number of phases
Worm gear	With three approaches
Worm shaft	Made of 40X steel
Worm wheel	Made of carbon fiber brand UPA 6 / 30-2

Having familiarized with the specified parameters, you will be able to choose the electric amplifier corresponding to your car. Do not forget that this is an electrical unit, so you should work with it very carefully.

Installation Benefits

If you decide to put a modern electric amplifier on your VAZ 2110, you need to know in advance what benefits you will get from such manipulation. This can further convince you of the correct decision.

1. Installation does not require a lot of experience, knowledge. Do it yourself in a few hours.
2. A small amount of electricity is required to operate the unit. This will not adversely affect the state of the battery or other components of the car.
3. EU has no negative impacts on the environmental friendliness of the exhaust.
4. Positive effect on parametric indicators.
5. It does not require complex and regular care during operation. Installed and enjoy the comfort.
6. Under low temperature conditions, the electric booster works better than the hydraulic booster.

Some believe that the operation of the electric power is slightly weaker compared to the hydraulic power. But in practice and on our roads you will not feel this. Therefore, this only drawback is more than controversial.

  Preparation for installation

Alas, not every “ten” has its own electric power amplifier. But this is not a problem, since the unit can be installed with your own hands. The work is not very difficult, because if you follow the instructions, you will do everything perfectly.

The main advantage of self-assembly is impressive cash savings. The unit itself is expensive, and installation at the service station will cost almost the same amount.

At the preparation stage, you should pre-purchase and prepare tools and materials:

• New electric power;
• Plate;
• Set of wiring;
• Prom;
• Casing and steering wheel;
• A set of different screwdrivers;
• Drill;
• Ruler.

Since we are talking about an electrical device, all kinds of oils and greases are not required here.

Mounting

When everything is ready, and you are set to work, you can proceed to install the EU.

1. Remove the standard terminal from the block and insert it into the block on the harness.
2. Now the free terminal, which moves away from the harness, is put in place of the standard drive adjacent to the block. This will allow the standard wire to pass between the two harnesses. The wire coming from the pads has a nominal value of 50 amperes.
3. Next, disconnect the shaft cover, and then dismantle the ignition switch. Be sure to separate the switches. This stage is carried out carefully and slowly so that the casing does not crack.

1. Turn off a fixing bolt of a steering rack and dismantle it.
2. Measure the lap in length. If necessary, use the adjustment plate. We recommend recording the received parameters.
3. An electric booster must now be installed on the freed area.
4. Choose the shaft of the right size, as it cannot fit onto the steering rack. To fit the shaft, you need a plate and a regrind under the shaft from Priora. By the way, when installing the EU, elements from the Priora model are perfectly suitable. Take note of this.

1. After fitting the plate, drill a larger recess than it is now. A shaft is a hollow structure, so any drill bit for metal can easily cope with the task.
2. The plate is placed on the amplifier and the obtained depth indicator is checked. If everything fits, tighten the structure with a small bolt.
3. Return all the switches to their places and start working with wiring.
4. From the cabin you want to bring two wires going directly to the battery. This is done through the left wing.
5. Remove the washer fluid reservoir and take a piece of wire. It will be required in order to fix the wires brought to the battery. They are attached to the end of the opposite, carried out and stretched both at once.
6. Remove the dashboard and remove the red colored shoe. Gently tighten the wiring into the underpanel space.
7. Now it extracts orange postings from the red box.

1. To this wiring, the red shoe is fixed and combined with the wiring from your electric power amplifier. Do not forget to lay the end of the wiring with the bare terminal from the amplifier on the freed-up regular wire located in the red block.
2. In the same way, an operation is performed with gray wiring, which is also located in the red shoe. She is pulled to a regular place and fixed with terminals.
3. Next, we move to the battery, securely fix the black negative wire on the pink wire - positive.
4. It remains to combine all the wiring from the EU and run it.
5. On this installation is almost complete. You should definitely assemble all the components, return the units to their original position - switches, cover, steering wheel, etc.

Customize EU

If you do not have experience in such work, you will definitely need to adjust the electric amplifier after completion of installation work.

The fit includes the following activities:

• Steering wheel alignment;
• Elimination of all cracks formed between the parts;
• Reducing the length of the power cable;
• Checking the installation of LED sensors for diagnosis of EU;
• Replacing worn or damaged items if necessary and if any.

Having finished work, get behind the wheel, carefully inspect the front of the operations performed. Start the car, check the new steering wheel in action. Be sure to bring the panel and steering wheel in order, clean the surfaces. After that, you can begin direct operation.

  Is repair possible

According to the manufacturer, that is, AvtoVAZ, the electric power amplifier is not repairable, but only completely replaced in the assembly.

In general, it is possible to repair an electric power amplifier, only in this case the owner of the car takes all the risks. We strongly recommend that you avoid self-repair, otherwise mistakes made can lead to serious negative consequences.

  Issue price

Wanting to install an electric power plant on the VAZ 2110, many car owners are interested in how much the installation will cost them.

We can’t say the exact prices of such services at car services, since each service station has its own pricing policy. If you plan to do the installation yourself, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the approximate price list for everything that you need in the process.

Component	Cost
New electric power	13-18 thousand rubles
Used electric power	2-6 thousand rubles
Steering shaft	about 1 thousand rubles
Brackets	about 1 thousand rubles
Wiring harness for connection	1,5 thousand rubles
Simulation of the speed sensor (necessary for carburetor "ten")	about 1.6 thousand rubles

It is obvious that the presence of an electric amplifier gives many advantages to the owners of the VAZ 2110, like any other car model. But do not risk installing the unit yourself, even if you do not have even the slightest experience and concepts about working with wiring. In this case, it is better to overpay, but entrust the installation to specialists.

Many motorists familiar with old VAZ cars know how difficult it is to drive them, especially in the parking lot - because they were not equipped with any power steering! Fortunately, later the cars began to be equipped with power steering (GUR), which greatly facilitated the situation, making cars more comfortable and safe.

However, the global automotive industry towards the end of the twentieth century went far ahead of the Russian in all respects. If we talk only about the components of the steering, then already in 1990, Japanese engineers from Toyota invented the electric power steering (EUR), a more efficient unit than the power steering.

• Differences between GUR and EUR
• The principle of operation of the EUR
• EUR: advantages and disadvantages
• Preparation for installation
• Installing the EUR to the VAZ 2110
• Can I repair and how much does it cost?
• Conclusions and recommendations

Russian designers were able to create such a device only in 2002, adapting it for use in the most comfortable car factory model at that time - the VAZ-2110.

Unfortunately, the power steering was the standard equipment for the “tens”. Therefore, if you want to improve the controllability of your car, you will have to do it yourself. What is needed for this and how to install correctly, we will describe in this article.

To begin with, we will understand how the ESD differs from the power steering. These units are structurally completely different. If you do not go into details, then the main unit of the latter is a pump driven by a crankshaft, which is combined into one unit with a number of other parts, and everything is tied to hydraulics there. And now let's figure out how the electric power steering is arranged? The ESD consists of an electric motor, a steering shaft with a torsion shaft, several sensors and an electronic control unit (ECU), and therefore the principle of its operation differs significantly from that of a hydraulic booster.

The principle of operation of electric power steering (EUR)

• The driver rotates the steering wheel;
• The torsion shaft begins to curl;
• Sensors record this, as well as a number of other parameters;
• ECU analyzes the received data;
• Upon completion of the analysis, the computer sends a command to the electric motor to create the necessary compensation force.

Electric power steering advantages and disadvantages

So why did the electric booster gain such popularity? There are several reasons:

1)    It also works when the engine is turned off (power steering - no);

2)    It has smaller dimensions than the hydraulic booster;

3)    Almost no maintenance;

4)    It practically does not create a load on the motor, which helps to save a little fuel;

5)    In conditions of negative temperatures it works more reliably than power steering.

However, he also has certain disadvantages:

1)    The EUR is structurally more complex and therefore more expensive;

2)    In some cases, the ECU may issue incorrect commands (a good example is the story with the 1st generation “Lada Kalina”);

3)    It has less power and therefore is only suitable for cars;

4)    With long driving on a bad road, it can overheat and turn off for a while until it cools down.

Preparation for installing the EUR on the VAZ 2110

First of all, you should find a garage where you will carry out all the work if you do not have it. Then go to the car shop and purchase all the necessary materials:

• Special plate;

• An intermediate steering shaft from "Lada Priora";

• Steering wheel for the "tens" of a new sample or from the "Lada Kalina", the column cover (optional, if you carefully remove the old one).

From the tools you will need:

• Screwdrivers (flat and cross);
• Ruler;
• Bulgarian (optional);
• Drill;
• Drill for metal.

How to install the EUR on the VAZ 2110: step-by-step photo repair

So, when everything is ready, you can proceed with the installation.

1)    Take the purchased wires and remove the standard terminal from the block, then install it in the block on the harness.

2)   The terminal that moves away from the harness is installed where there was a wire adjacent to the block (standard). All these manipulations are needed then, so that you can skip the regular wire between the bundles. By the way, the wire from the pads is 50A, and the fuse must match this power (can be taken from the Chevrolet Niva).

4)   Turn off a bolt of fastening of a steering rack and dismantle it.

5)    Compare the length of the old and the new countershaft. Depending on the results obtained, it will be necessary to adjust the plate and shaft. Here you will need a ruler. Dimensions are best recorded.

6)    The shaft is adjusted by turning it, you need to do this on a special machine, so you have to turn to specialists.

7)    The plate is adjusted by re-drilling some holes to a greater depth. It is not difficult to do this, since the shaft is hollow inside. You will also probably need to trim the corners of the plate with a grinder and put gaskets between it and the body.

8)    Try to install the EUR to the assembly with the plate and steering rack. It is likely that the standard rail mounting bolt will not work, and it will have to be replaced with a smaller analogue. This will entail the need to install a makeshift limiter so that the shaft is stationary.

9)    Set the switches (or rather, their central part).

10)    The next step is to pull 2 \u200b\u200bwires from the passenger compartment to the battery through the left wing. Remove the washer reservoir and find the long copper wire. Open the fuse box, find the wires going under the hood. Put the wire in there (be careful not to damage the wires!). She will come out through the hole in the left wing. Attach the wires to the end of the wire, which is in the passenger compartment, and then pull the wire all the way into the engine compartment.

11)    Remove the dashboard and find the red shoe. Then drag the wiring from the EUR to the space under the panel.

12) Disconnect the orange wire from the red shoe and put on the shoe from the power kit wiring kit. Dock it with the orange wire from the EUR (1st leg in its block, 12V). Insert the remaining end with the terminal into the place of the standard wire in the red shoe.

13)    The same manipulation must be carried out with the gray wire (it is also from the red shoe).

14)    The wires pulled out under the hood must be connected as follows: black on “-”, and pink on “+”. That's all, all that remains is to put the casing and the steering wheel back.

Fit after installation

After reassembling, it may turn out that there are some shortcomings. Perhaps they will be completely indifferent to you, but if you decide to do everything perfectly, the following additional work may be required:

• Align the steering wheel if it is crooked after installation;
• Remove all too large gaps between the steering column cover and the front panel;
• Install the sensor for diagnosing the EUR;
• Replace the cracked steering column cover with a new one if necessary.

In addition, it is important that you have to slightly adjust your driving style - at first it might seem that the steering wheel is spinning very easily. It’s also not worth “pawning” the car into a turn, since the steering force with the steering wheel is weaker than with the power steering or, especially, without it.

Is the electric power steering repaired and the issue price

If suddenly the electric power steering fails for some reason, it is useless to contact the service, since this part is not repairable, and therefore it changes exclusively in assembly. So, self-repair of the ESD is carried out strictly at your own peril and risk, because any unqualified intervention in its design can easily lead to accidents with a probability of death.

Now let's talk about the issue price. Installing the EUR, frankly, will cost a considerable amount. Judge for yourself:

• The new EUR, depending on the region of delivery, will cost about 13,000 - 18,000 rubles. It is ordered both through online stores, with subsequent delivery by mail to any city, and directly from the factory;
• You can save by purchasing a used part at a cost in the region of 2000-6000 rubles. Look for ads on the Internet, newspapers, etc., but remember that you are buying a pig in a poke.

If we talk about other details, without which it is impossible to install, then they are also not cheap:

• An intermediate steering shaft adapted for the installation of the EUR - from 2000 rubles. and more;
• Bracket for installation - about 1,000 rubles .;
• Wiring for electric power - approximately 1,500 rubles .;
• If the car is carbureted, then you will also need a speed sensor simulator - this is still around 1,500 rubles.

Which of the above can be concluded? On the one hand, the installation of the EUR on the VAZ-2110 carries many positive aspects, the main of which is much more comfortable handling, which is especially noticeable if your car did not have any power steering at all. You will be less tired in the process of driving, and when hitting a large pit, the steering wheel will not break out of your hands, as if alive, which increases traffic safety. In addition, it will not be necessary to regularly monitor the liquid level and be wary of leaks, as is the case with power steering.

On the other hand, an electric power amplifier is a very expensive pleasure, especially in the current crisis times. And to install it is quite difficult, except that it takes a lot of time.

In addition, the EUR is completely unrepairable, and if it breaks down, the car gets on the joke, while with the leaking power steering it is possible to ride for a while until a new one is bought. Is it worth it to put the EUR in its "top ten" - you decide. And that's all for today. See you soon!

Many probably heard that you can install electric power steering from Priora to VAZ 2110. How difficult is it to do this job with your own hands? What is the price of EUR Priory and where can I order it? I tried to answer all these questions in this article.

There are two types of mechanisms that make steering easier: power steering (hydro power steering) and power steering (electric power steering).

Pros of the EUR:

Cons of the EUR:

Approximate the price of the EUR for the VAZ 2110   per set:

Total: 15000 rub.

Where to buy a set of EUR Priors   ? It is possible to order directly from the factory in Kaluga. In the online store ‘Everything for Auto’

Is it worth it to install the EUR on our tens ? A question without a clear answer. To say that this is a waste of money is impossible. Since the effect of installing the EUR is also very good. The rotation of the steering wheel really becomes easy. But it cannot be said that there are no negative sides. For example, the price of the EUR set of Priors is about 15 thousand rubles. not many will like it. In addition, the kit also needs to be installed, and this is a separate very difficult story with sawing, drilling and cursing for a whole day. After installation, not everything will go smoothly with gaps, steering wheel adjustment in height, etc. In general, see how others install the EUR on the VAZ 2110 themselves and understand everything: Install the EUR from Priora to the VAZ 2110. Photo report from Realmatroskin Realization of the installation belongs to Realmatroskin ' at.

On dismantling, I got a steering wheel from viburnum with a small bonus

I bought the EUR, here it is in the box, the control unit, the marking of the EUR itself

Pads are the same as on the 10th EUR. Electric power instruction included.

Then I bought a prom from priors with a tricky mechanism

I measured the length of the gaps. The difference was 4 cm with an error in the larger direction. The length was torn to 25.5 cm in the maximally unfolded form.

Then the ordered wiring came in. This is how the pads look, that is, there will be no need for twists, I removed the terminal from the block, inserted it into the cable in the cable harness and inserted the free cable terminal into the place where the standard wire was removed, it’s already at 50A.

EUR connectors and harness pads in them

By wiring too - you can do without a special harness - there you just need to extend two power wires from the battery with a cross-section of 4 squares, a 50 A fuse from Shniva, the rest is all low-current - to the tachometer, to the speed sensor, + 12V after ZZ, ground, to -line and wire to the control lamp.

But since there was no adapter plate and it is not known when it will come, I decided to cut it ourselves. We take the workpiece, mark it and saw it out with a jigsaw. Thickness is approximately 4mm.

Remove the casing, switches, ignition.

We adjust the plate in place (photo 1-2). We put the shaft on the EUR, put the EUR in place and see that the shaft is small. It literally fits 1 mm on the rail, I had to shoot and think. It did not work out over the drain shaft, since it had to be hollow with a plate and a priori. Priorov has undergone changes in this part (photo 3-4)

Well, I had to re-drill the plate in order to drive the EUR even deeper, it didn’t give a special arrival, I put spacers between the plate and the body. So the EUR is installed, the shaft more or less climbed onto the rail, but not completely, the bolt is not inserted. I had to take a smaller bolt and clamp it to death and sculpt the stop on the shaft so that the cardan could not in any way move back.

The next step is our wiring. It is necessary to stretch two wires to the battery from the passenger compartment, it is necessary to stretch through the left wing, for this we open the CE (fuse block) and look for a bunch of wires going under the hood.

The bottom photos show:

We remove the dashboard, pull out the red shoe, drag the wiring into the underpanel space and remove the orange wire from the red shoe.

We hook onto it a block that came with wires. We connect with the EUR wiring, with the orange wire (this is the first leg in the EUR block, + 12V power) And we poke the end with the bare EUR wiring terminal in place of the regular one in the red block.

We do the same with the gray wire of the red shoe. The gray end (this is the 3rd leg of the EUR block, the signal from the speed sensor) and the brown-red white pad (this is the 2nd leg of the EUR block, the low voltage signal from the tachometer)

Well, everything is ready, attempt No. 1

Start. Turn the steering wheel to see - nevermind. I swear for a long time at the manufacturer and myself, then we calm down and remember that the power ends are not connected. We go to the battery and cling pink to PLUS black to MINUS.

Attempt number 2 - joy full pants. Twists with one finger.

The steering wheel is comfortable for me.

You need to get used to the EUR, do not lay in the turns according to the old habit, but you quickly get used to the good.

Well, finally a good plate came. I digested the lag to the desired length using the stock shaft as a donor and bought a casing. Here's what happened: The length of the gap is 27.8 cm. The joint of two shafts (prior inserted into the drain and welded)

No modifications could be made to maintain height adjustment, I had to grind the edges

I put gaskets between the plate body, as a result, the distance from the bed of the policeman 51cm to the seat was 21 cm

Having finished it, put it in place and close it with covers. After installation it turned out like this In the upper position (photo 1-2), in the lower position (photo 3-4)

Then tied the wires, do not pay attention.

There is a gap, it is necessary to think something up.

That's what remains of the old management

The casing has a defect, there was a control tape recorder.

A wheel with dozens of a new sample and a casing for it, a stock shaft for the 10th rail, a guarantor.

On-board computers. Ukraine Multitronics from the official representative office: sale, service, warranty, delivery. Address and telephone number multitronics.com.ua

Installation time 4-5 hours. Installation of the EUR from Priora to the VAZ 2110. Photo report from McLaren_ The implementation of the installation belongs to McLaren_’.

He took off everything old. There were difficulties with the column bolts, one did not want to unscrew.

He began to customize the plate for the EUR:

After I screwed the sharpened plate and tried on the EUR. Not suitable: skews. The whole difficulty is that the EUR itself is heavy, and when it is also uncomfortable, it is generally difficult. And it still needs to be put on the steering shaft and the studs. ? I fitted the covers, I have them VAZ 2112

Well, that’s all, I collected the rest.

CONCLUSIONS:Nothing fits! No steering wheel height adjustment at all! Even 5mm! somewhere around 1mm walks. The steering wheel is always at the very bottom, like in a trolley bus! Horse gaps all over the steering casing and panel! The steering shaft is right up to the bottom, near the EURA, there is no possibility to put a coupling bolt on the shaft, it is not included because the shaft is not sitting properly. Even judging by the holes in the plate and the EUR, it does not stand correctly. IMHO the thing is in the steering shaft, it should be shorter by about 2 centimeters then everything will fall into place and everything will be fine.

In general, everything needs to be redone, it’s no good! Another bonus to the steering column and the contact group of the signal was lithol, and now they gently switched so that it’s just a holiday. Well, we don’t have any blocks for the viburnum signal. Now I’m driving without a signal.

Installation of EUR from Priors to VAZ 2110. Elorn photo report The installation is owned by Elorn’s.

Today, there are mainly Kaluga ‘Auto Electronics’ amplifiers on the market.

The minimum required kit consists of:

If for good, then you need:

I followed the minimal program. Everything is removed: covers, switches, steering wheel, lock ..

Further, the column itself: we unscrew the bolt with a nut by 13, which tightened the spline connection of the industrial shaft with the steering. We unscrew 2 more nuts by 13 from the studs on which the columns hang and ... 2 shear bolts, again, and even on the grovers. Tormented, but unscrew. We take out the column, it remains to unscrew another bolt in the area of \u200b\u200bthe floor to remove the stock industrial shaft. There is no point in putting it on it. If the EUR will then sit on the plate, which is generally unlikely, it will stick out too far. Plus, the existing rubber connection (xs how to call it correctly), inserted into the stock shaft section will now receive a large load, since the angle of the steering shaft will change, and the shaft will have to bend in this 'rubber' joint, which can quickly damage it . Better not take the risk.

Well, it’s also worth adding that the length of the EUR shaft is about 3 cm longer than the drain. From here it is worth dancing, choosing a prom. shaft: it should be shorter by at least 1 cm, so that the steering column sat on studs without problems. Well, 2cm of the margin for selecting the shaft along the length of the arms Personally, it is more convenient for me when the steering wheel is closer, the stock position was far away.

Everything is assembled easily and naturally, in comparison with the previous process. As they say: to break - not to build. We need to be able to do this. We set the industrial shaft, we fix the adapter plate. Next, we put the EUR, checking the strength of our hands.

We stretch the necessary wires (‘+’ with a fuse of 50A and ‘-‘ to the battery and three information wires (12V, engine speed, speed sensor) to the tidy). We put the lock, put the steering column connector, steering wheel, connect everything.

To my great regret, a couple of years ago I was in a hurry, buying Kalino-wheel ‘under ten’. It was necessary to take a pure viburnum with a new lever connector and a prior-casing. Having received technical satisfaction from the work, I realized that I aesthetically fake on the full program. Why? Yes here:

Therefore, a new casing is needed, and now it is not at all clear how it will become on this creation.

An important aspect of comfort is vibrational loading. She touches the steering wheel in the same way. Here the vibrations (especially horizontal) of the steering column from entering large pits disappeared, which sometimes reached incredible values \u200b\u200band responded with a knock (many treat it by squeezing balls or balls into the gimbal). This applies to poor roads or primers / gravel. Virtually no hesitation, knocks, nothing but information on the steering wheel that the wheels actually go along a fig road. In this case, it seems that a different industrial shaft is affecting (without a clutch, but with a second cardan from the rail), which does not transmit lateral vibrations further due to additional. degrees of freedom.

Well, the EUR itself plays its role, or rather its weight, because we remember that its weight is more than 9 kilograms, while an ordinary rail weighs no more than 2 and has a bunch of flimsy joints.

The test drive ended with arrival in Moscow time at three in the morning, therefore this morning was met with absolutely no joy, with pain in my back and arms, a desire to still sleep, and not go to work or do anything at all ...

As practice has shown, the use of the 1118 Kalina rudder under the VAZ-2110 is fraught with great difficulties in terms of installing the steering column cover. The most optimal set when installing the EMURU (this in this case applies to the Kaluga production amplifier, as I do not know with others) :

• Steering wheel 11183-34020xx (the last digits in the catalogs differ, you need to look so that the steering wheel is for Kalina, and not dozens);
• Switch connector 2123-3709320 (well, the switches themselves are from Kalina / Shniva and the like, if you do not already have them);
• The steering column cover is either 2112, or Kalina, or Priora.

‘Either’ because any of them will require working with a file to one degree or another. 2112, for example, used by me, demanded trimming of plastic in the upper part in the area of \u200b\u200bmounting the plate and in the lower, where it rested on the electric motor case.

At the same time, this casing will be short for two reasons:

Here's how it all came to me after a series of the above improvements:

The continuation of the guidance of the aesthetic marathon follows ... but not very soon, due to the lack of time and rational ideas.

Spent the time to install the EUR - all day.

Installation of electric power steering from Priora to VAZ 2110. Killer Speed \u200b\u200bphoto report The installation is owned by Killer Speed.

I bought an adapter plate. I decided to paint it in the color of a car. As it turned out later - it was better to paint it black - after installation, it sticks out a bit from under the torpedoes. There is an idea how to hide all this beautifully - but you need to get to the auto parts store.

Removing the steering column is quite simple and is described in the Murzilka. The only advice is that in order to easily remove the shaft from the steering rack, after unscrewing the bolt with a chisel, slightly open the clamp ears to the sides. And yet, the stall bolts deliver hassle, and so everything is not complicated. They removed it, now we compare our column and the Priors column with the EUR. On top of the column with the EUR and the adapter plate. It can be seen that the shaft sticks out more into the cabin.

We unscrew the intermediate shaft from the column with the EUR; we fasten the native (long) one. We fasten the adapter plate. Instead of the stall bolts, I put the usual M6 - one figs all these stall bolts are only from honest people protection. Example of a steering column with EUR