And I decided to repeat it. From the beginning I ordered the equipment, servos, shock absorbers, smaller ones at the front and larger ones at the back. The photo is not very good



I found a chainsaw engine of 45 cc and 3 horsepower.
And I started making the frame. The first pancake turned out to be lumpy because I made it from a metal profile and the frame turned out to be heavy and flimsy, which did not suit me.
Then I decided to try to make something lighter and stronger. I came across a sheet of aluminum from it, so I decided to make a frame. Firstly, it’s light and durable (to some extent), its one minus is that it bends, but that’s not a problem. In order for it not to bend, I strengthened it in the center by installing 2 strips of aluminum profile. The frame turned out to be surprisingly strong; it can withstand a weight of 32 kg, which is what I need. The length of the frame was 73 cm, width 25 cm, thickness 2.5 mm. Here's the frame itself.

Then I thought about how to make a chassis, how to install the front wheels, from the beginning I wanted to use an aluminum U-shaped profile to install the suspension on it, but I couldn’t find it anywhere (I never thought that this was such a shortage D). I had to buy a 25 mm aluminum angle, but then I found out that rofil could be bought in castorama, but it was too late, this is what happened

the height of the corners turned out to be 6 cm. At the rear, I’m still thinking about how best to do it because the model will be rear-wheel drive and such a scheme will no longer work and should be done without the main parts rear suspension I’m not taking any risks because I need to make estimates. And while I’m waiting for the main package, without which this machine will never move. It comes with a set of drive axles

The receiver, just like my own, burned out due to my stupidity

and wheel adapters

Towards the end of the first part I want to show approximately what my model will look like, I’ll say right away the photos are not mine, I found them on the Internet. To be continued.

Every child wants to have a radio control car. Today, such cars are quite expensive, and children quickly break them, but there is no need to panic.

Skillful hands, imagination and available materials will allow you to independently make such a car from cardboard, which is not inferior in power and maneuverability to purchased plastic cars.
To make it we will need:
· cardboard from boxes,
· construction knife,
· pencil, ruler,
· glue,
· DC motors,
· wires,
· on and off button,
· soldering iron,
· control joystick,
· battery,
· plastic circle, plastic tubes,
· elastic bands,
· metal stick,
· plastic book cover,
· plastic covers from plastic bottles 6 items,
· wooden sticks,
· LEDs and capacitors.

First stage
To begin, take a sheet of cardboard 9/28 cm and cut out several parts in it.
On the left side at the top, step back about 1.5 cm from the side edge and cut out a 3/4.5 cm rectangle, do the same at the bottom, and on the right side from the top, step back about 4.5 cm and cut out a 2/4 rectangle, 5 cm, cut an identical one from the bottom. Between these rectangles in the middle, cut a strip of 1/4.5 cm. This part will serve as the lower part of our car.


Let's cut out the side.
To do this, you need to draw a view of the car on 9/28 cm cardboard. On the left side, step back approximately 0.5 cm from the side edge and 1 cm from the bottom, draw a line 4 cm long, and from it tilt a line in the middle 5 cm long, straight to the end of the cardboard. On the right side, swipe from the edge just below the middle horizontal line from the edge to the middle, lifting it slightly up, 7.5 cm long, and from it a line 5.5 cm, leading up and tilting into the middle. Inside this part of the cardboard you can draw windows, doors and wheels. Moreover, the wheels and windows also need to be cut out, and the doors simply need to be cut so that they open and close. It is necessary to make two such parts, because they will be the sides of our car.


Wheels
To make wheels, take 4 plastic bottle caps and make a hole in the middle. Glue a small plastic circle in the middle onto a bamboo barbecue stick, first making a suitable hole in it. Now take a plastic tube like a cotton swab and measure the size on the cardboard that will be the bottom of the machine. On the right side from the bottom cut rectangle to the middle strip, cut two such segments. Then put them on the bamboo stick close to the glued circle on both sides. Then put on the bottle caps and, stepping back from the strips by about 0.5 cm, glue them, and cut off the rest of the bamboo stick so that it does not peek out from under the caps.


Place an elastic band in the middle where the plastic circle is glued. Now glue the wheels in the place intended for them on the right side of the cardboard, the elastic should be in the middle hole. For the next two lids, you need to insert plastic tubes into the hole, glue them, and then cut the plastic tube to the height of the lid itself. We cut two 2.5 cm pieces from the body of the ballpoint pen. We put them on a metal stick and use pliers to bend this stick. The result should be: a horizontal metal pin approximately 3 cm long, at an angle of 90 degrees.
Source: zen.yandex.ru

DIY radio controlled tracked tank

Let's take a little break from radio-controlled flying toys and go down to the ground. Today I’ll tell you how to make a platform for tracked vehicles on R/U. On the platform you can put a tank, an excavator, a bulldozer, or anything else that comes to your mind.
Homemade radio controlled crafts are a very entertaining hobby.

Materials

We will need a 2-channel transmitter, a control panel (joystick), two 9G servos, an old bicycle tube, a sheet of plastic and 8 ice cream sticks. And yes, don’t forget about the Li-Pol 3.7 V 150 mAh battery.
We take glue, pieces, a knife and scissors on the shelf.

Preparing the engines

Servo drives will be used as motors. It is necessary to disassemble and cut off the stops on the gears. We cut off the standard wires and solder 2 wires for each motor (+ and –, respectively).

From plastic we cut out a plate 40 by 100 mm and two plates 20 by 100 mm. We mount servos in small plates. And using glue we assemble the frame.

We also make rollers from plastic: we painstakingly and carefully cut out 12 circles with a diameter of 20 mm and 8 circles of 30 mm each. Glue together 3 small circles, and 2 large ones at the edges. So we get 4 rollers. We fasten it to the frame with bolts, drilling holes in the rollers and in the frame.

Caterpillars

From an old bicycle inner tube we cut out two strips 25mm long and 6mm wide. Glue each strip together.
Yes, the glue will hold up, there won’t be much load on the joint.
Cut the ice cream sticks into 14 mm strips and glue them lengthwise onto the manufactured caterpillar.

All the most difficult stages are completed. We put the tracks on the rollers. We solder the wires from the servos to the transmitter and connect the battery.


Profit. The homemade product is ready.
The cross-country ability was amazing. Then it's up to your imagination to give the base a certain appearance!


Thank you for your attention and many thanks to the author of the homemade product Creative Chanel.
Source: zen.yandex.ru

Mig 29 made of EPP foam radio controlled

Greetings to all lovers scale models and models on RC (that is, on the control panel). In October 2017, I bought myself a radio-controlled MIG-29 fighter from a work colleague. My colleague made this fighter himself from EPP foam (foam that bends) and carbon slats that hold its shape. In addition to the plane, he gave me spare servos with rockers as a gift, as well as a 500 mAh battery. I bought it because I am a novice aircraft modeller and, like any novice aircraft modeller, I am afraid of breaking my first plane.
I chose this plane because of its material, as it is made of EPP foam. And EPP foam does not break but bends, thereby reducing the chance of my model crashing. Since I already had the control panel and receiver, I didn’t have to buy all this.
(photos were taken on a phone, so the quality of the photos will not be the best)


On this fighters, as expected, RC models work:
– elevators,
– rudders
– electrons,
- engine
I have demonstrated everything below.




And here are the servos themselves, so they are mounted on the wing, they drive the ailerons:


Naturally, what sets the plane in motion is an electric motor of type 2205. On my model, the motor is located on the nose, although on such models it is located in the middle of the plane. Here's what it looks like:


There is a regulator on the way to the motor; it is responsible for the number of revolutions on the motor and, therefore, for the speed of the model itself. Here's what it looks like:


All this is powered by batteries; this plane has a 450mAh Li-Po battery. Here he is:


It is attached with Velcro (like on shoes). This is what the battery mount on the model body looks like:


Since the model is made of EPP foam, when it flies it will not be able to hold its shape (since EPP foam is flexible) and so that it holds its shape and does not bend, carbon slats and spokes are glued in. Here they are in black:

Well, he seemed to tell and show everything about the plane, oh, but he didn’t tell me about the propellers, well, we still need to pick up the propellers, although there are a couple lying around in stock. In addition to the plane itself, I also received spare components for it. Here they are all:


Below I will show them in more detail; by the way, some of them are not yet on the plane, but I still have to connect and configure them.
1) Screws, you may ask why 2 screws, because this is a part that often breaks when an airplane crashes, and everyone has crashes. Therefore, they are often sold in sets of several pieces.


2) Li-Po batteries. I already talked about batteries above, but I also have 2 of them, basically they always take 2 of them, since one quickly discharges. One battery lasts for 10-20 minutes of flight. One I have is 450 mAh and the second is 500 mAh.


3) Servo machines with rockers. As I said above, servos operate the moving parts of the aircraft, namely:
ailerons,
elevators,
rudders


4) Receiver with plug. I'll tell you about the plug when I talk about the control panel and I'll tell you about the receiver. The receiver's task is to catch the signal from the radio control panel and transmit it to all devices. All devices are connected to it, namely: a speed controller with a motor and all servos. Here's what it looks like:


Well, I told you about the plane later, I’ll tell you about the control panel, I’ll devote a whole post to it. (if I missed something, I will definitely add it). Well, to find out about the control panel, subscribe to me. And you will definitely find out!

I got this one from my nephew radio controlled car toy. The range is only about 15 meters, the electronic part is weak, i.e. The front wheels barely turn and the drive pulls very weakly.

Having nothing else to do, I decided to pump up this radio-controlled car a little. Having rummaged through the bins I found a 40 MHz receiver and two servos, one HS-311 in working condition and one powerful digital MG946R with a burnt out motor. HS-311 fitted the steering wheel to replace the original, frail design, and MG946R took only an electronic control board. In place of the servo motor, I connected the traction motor of a radio-controlled car, and in place of the servo variable, I soldered a 4.7 kOhm tuning resistor.

Setting up a radio-controlled car

Remade radio controlled toy When you turn on the transmitter for the first time, it starts spinning its wheels. To stop them, you need to:

• Connect the gas servo to channel 2 (RV channel)
• Configure if you need to reverse the channel
• Use a trimmer to stop the wheels from rotating

Next, we set up the expansions (we set the gas to 100%), costs and trim the steering wheel. For power, I used 5 cans of NICD batteries, converted radio controlled car emerged powerful and nimble. There were some problems, the original traction motor turned out to be rather weak, it gets very hot and stinks, I think it won’t have long to live. But in general, the modification was a success, now the car drives under the remote control

I must say that on modern market There is an overabundance of radio-controlled cars today, but it is filled with models, usually made in China, although among them you will find a product for almost every taste. However, there are always craftsmen who are not satisfied with the current proposals or who believe that a radio-controlled car, assembled with their own hands, will always be better than even good assembly-line copies. It is for beginner craftsmen that our article today is written. Let's start with necessary tools, and then we will describe the operating procedure and give some useful tips.

How to assemble a radio-controlled car: tools

So, we will need the following:

• the model of any car, even the simplest one, any manufacture - be it Chinese, domestic, American or European;
• VAZ door opening solenoids, 12-volt battery;
• radio control equipment - AGC (not to be confused with Automatic Gain Control, since the abbreviation is the same);
• batteries with chargers;
• radiator;
• electronic measuring equipment;
• soldering iron with solder and metalworking tools;
• a piece of rubber (needed to strengthen the bumper).

Radio controlled car diagram

Well, now let’s move on to the diagram, that is, to the process of creating a high-quality model of a RC machine. First, let's assemble the suspension - that's why we need a basic model and a 12 V battery. It will look something like this:

Now we take VAZ solenoids and plastic gears and assemble the gearbox. We cut threads on the studs and body so that gears and solenoids can be hung. Everything should look something like this:

Now we connect the gearbox to the power supply and check it, after which we install the gearbox in the car if it passes the test. We install a radiator to protect the circuit from overheating. By the way, the radiator plate can be very securely fastened with bolts. After this, we install the power driver and radio control microcircuits. They are clearly visible in this photo:

Well, then we completely assemble the body of our car. After this, you can begin test runs of the car. And now some tips.

So you have an RC car, how do you make it maneuverable and reliable? Firstly, do not overload the model with unnecessary parts and systems. Sound signals, glowing headlights, opening doors - this is all, of course, good and beautiful, but creating a radio-controlled car is already a rather difficult process, and making it even more complicated can negatively affect the basic “driving” qualities of your model. Therefore, the main thing you need to concentrate on is to do good suspension and ensure reliable signal transmission. Well, in improving maneuverability and optimization speed characteristics You will be helped by fine-tuning the systems during test runs. As for specific schemes, it is simply not possible to describe even a hundredth of them in this article, so I refer you to

This article is a modeler's story about making a homemade radio controlled model four-wheel drive vehicle Range Rover from a plastic model. It reveals the nuances of manufacturing axle drives, installing electronics and many other nuances.

So, I decided to make a model car with my own hands!

I bought a regular stand model of Range Rovera from the store. The price of this model is 1500 rubles, in general it’s a bit expensive, but the model is worth it! Initially I thought of making a hummer, but this model is much more suitable in design.

I had electronics, well, I took some spare parts from a trophy store called “cat”, which I had not needed for a long time and was disassembled for spare parts!

Of course, it was possible to take other prefabricated models as a basis, but I wanted just such an off-road jeep.

It all started with bridges and differentials that I made from copper pipes and soldered with a regular 100w soldering iron. The differentials here are ordinary, the gear is plastic, the rods and drive bones are iron from a trophy car.

Such tubes can be purchased at any hardware store.


I took the differential gear from a regular printer. I didn’t need him for a long time and now I decided that it was time for him to retire.

Everything turned out quite reliably, but the soldering iron is quite inconvenient to work with!

After I made the differentials, I needed to cover them with something, so I covered them with pill caps.

And painted it with regular auto enamel. It turned out beautifully, although it’s unlikely that a trophy fish needs beauty.

Then it was necessary to make steering rods and install axles on the frame. The frame was included and to my surprise it turned out to be iron, not plastic.

It was quite difficult to do this since the scale of the parts is very small and it was not possible to solder here, I had to screw it in with bolts. I took the steering rods from the same old trophy car that I dismantled.

All differential parts are on bearings. Since I made the model for a long time.

I also ordered a gearbox with a reduction gear; the gear will be activated by a microservo machine from the remote control.

Well, in general, then I installed a plastic bottom, cut a hole in it, installed a gearbox, cardan shafts, a homemade gearbox, an ordinary collector engine for such a small model, there is no point in installing a BC and the speed is not important to me.

The engine is from a helicopter, but in the gearbox it is quite powerful.

The most important thing is that the model does not move jerkily, but smoothly without delay; the gearbox was not easy to make, but I had a heap of parts; the main thing is ingenuity.

I screwed the gearbox to the bottom and it held up perfectly, but I had to tinker with the bottom to attach it to the frame.

Then I installed the electronics, shock absorbers, and battery. At first I installed the electronics rather weakly and both the regulator and the receiver were a single unit, but then I installed everything separately and the electronics were more powerful.

And finally, painting, installation of all the main components, decals, lights and more. I painted everything with regular plastic paint in 4 layers, then painted the wings brown and sanded the parts to give it a shabby and worn look.

The model's body and color are completely original, I found the color on the Internet and took a photo of the real car, everything was done according to the original. This color combination exists on real car and they were painted that color at the factory.

Well, here are the final photos. I’ll add a video of the test a little later, but the model turned out to be quite passable, the speed was 18 km/h, but I didn’t make it for speed. In general, I am satisfied with my work, but it’s up to you to evaluate it.

The car is not large, scale 1k24 in size and that’s the whole point of the idea, I wanted a mini trophy car.

The model is not afraid of moisture! Germet everything himself simply coated the electronics with varnish, very reliably, no moisture is a problem.

Micro park servo from an airplane, 3.5 kg.

The battery lasts for 25 minutes of riding, but I will install more powerful electronics and a battery, because this one is not quite enough.

Even the bumpers are the same as on the original. And the fastenings on them too. The drive on it is not 50 to 50%, but 60 to 40%.

In general, the Range Rover turned out to be in a rustic style; I didn’t even think that it would be possible to paint it so well because I don’t really know how to paint, although it’s not difficult at all!

I forgot to add, for beauty, I also installed a safety cage and a full-fledged spare tire. The spare tire and frame were included with the kit.

More about radio-controlled models:

Mishanya comments:

Tell me how it works four-wheel drive, what is inside the bridge besides the transfer case? There must be rounded fist after all.