The electric fan of the VAZ-2114 engine cooling system is activated only by a signal from the coolant temperature sensor. But the connection does not occur directly, but through a relay. Two fuses protect this electrical circuit. If the temperature gauge needle creeps into the red zone of the scale, then let off the gas, turn on full power interior heater fan and look for a place to stop.
The serviceability of one of the fuses, located in the mounting block and protecting the electrical circuit of the fan, can be checked by simply pressing the horn button. If the signal works, then everything is in order with the fuse, since it also protects the electrical circuit of the sound signal. If it malfunctions, we open the mounting block and look for a 20-amp fuse F5, but before replacing it, you need to find the reason for its failure, otherwise the newly installed one will burn out in the same way.
To check the second fuse, you will have to remove the console trim on the passenger side. There you will see three relays and next to each of them there is a fuse. You will need to pull out the middle one to check. And again, if it burns out, you need to look for the cause of this phenomenon. If the fuse is working, we check the middle relay, since the fan motor is turned on through it. Having pulled it out of its socket, inspect its contacts for oxidation. You can check it with an ohmmeter; if you don’t have one or don’t know how to use it, you’ll have to try to replace it with a working one.
Next, open the hood, disconnect the block with wires from the fan motor and, if there is a pair of wires, connect it directly to battery. If the fan starts working, then the cause of the malfunction will have to be looked for in the temperature sensor, or a relay and another fuse located next to this relay. Well, if the fan does not work when connected directly, then you will have to look for the fault in it yourself.
The fan may not work due to a failure temperature sensor turning on the fan. It is located on the cylinder head, above the thermostat. If there is no ohmmeter, we check by replacing it. Only the fan switch sensor should not be confused with the sensor that works with the coolant temperature gauge.
The fan serves to generate air flows that are directed to the engine radiator. This is necessary in order to cool the liquid that circulates through it.
If the car is moving at high speed, the fan is not particularly required, since everything required cooling the motor receives from oncoming air flows. But when the car goes into slow driving or idle mode with the engine running, the role of the propeller becomes indispensable.
Searched device
Switching on occurs after the corresponding signal is given from electronic block management. The ECU, in turn, learns about the need to turn on the fan from the temperature sensor. The switching threshold is 103-105 degrees Celsius.
In the case of the VAZ 2114, the fan (propeller) is located in the engine compartment on the back side of the radiator.
Why doesn't it work
There are several reasons why the propeller may not turn on when the temperature situation requires it:
- The electric motor of the fan, that is, the drive, has failed;
- The fuse broke and burned out;
- Relay failed;
- The wiring is broken;
- The sensor connectors have lost contact;
- The sensor has failed.
Finding the fault
|
Problem search area |
Explanation |
|
Propeller check |
The connector on the propeller is disconnected and connected directly to the battery. If the fan starts working, everything is fine with the drive. If the propeller still does not spin, the problem is in the electric motor. |
|
Wiring and contacts |
If the propeller does not work, you must check the condition of the wiring and make sure that the sensor contacts are working properly |
|
Fuse |
You can find these two elements in the engine compartment on the left, closer to the driver inside mounting block. The fan is supplied with a fuse designated F4 with a rated current of 20A. The test can be performed by pressing the horn button. Why? Yes, because it is also connected to this fuse. Or check with a tester |
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It is located in the same place as the fuse. For an effective test, it is best to take a relay that you are 100% sure is working, install it in place of the old one and check |
|
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To test the sensor, disconnect power from it. If it works, the propeller will start working in emergency mode, that is, it will blow constantly. Disconnect the connector and turn on the ignition. If the propeller spins, then the sensor is broken. Need a replacement |
When to change
If the fan itself is the cause of all the problems, it is not necessary to change it, since in some cases it can be repaired. Failures are often associated with bearings or brushes.
If the cause of the breakdown is the failure of the electric motor due to a broken wiring or short circuit, it is not worth the risk of repairing it. It is easier and better to replace the entire drive.
Checking for open circuit
If you drive a car that does not have a cooling propeller, this will lead to overheating of the coolant and destruction of pipes, rubber elements, gaskets of the main cylinder block and valve covers. It is not far from destroying the components of the piston group.
Fuse
Operating a vehicle with a broken fan is strictly prohibited.
Issue price
Before starting to solve the problem of a radiator propeller not working, it is important for many people to learn about the cost of components and labor.
A new element today will cost approximately 1.5-2.5 thousand rubles, depending on the model and region. Cost of replacement at the station Maintenance will be from 400 rubles and above. Although it is not necessary to spend money on this, since self-replacement It will take you no more than half an hour. Yes, and there is nothing particularly complicated here.
temperature sensor
Replacement
In order to replace the fan cooling propeller with your own hands, you will need a fairly small set of tools, which includes:
- Crosshead screwdriver;
- 8 mm socket wrench;
- 10mm socket wrench.
If you are ready, then let's get started.
- Place the car on a level surface, turn on hand brake. Just in case, you can put additional supports under the wheels of your VAZ 2114. It never hurts to take precautions.
- Raise the hood and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
- Using a 10 mm wrench, the housing fasteners are dismantled air filter.
- Armed with a screwdriver, loosen the clamp from the air duct located on the mass air flow sensor. This way you can remove the corrugation. Do it.
- There are screws on the air filter housing cover that hold it in place. They are unscrewed with a screwdriver, after which the filter component is removed from its seat.
- Now take an 8 mm wrench and use it to remove the air intake fasteners, and then remove the air intake itself.
- Now, using a 10 and 8 mm wrench, remove the fastening nuts on the fan casing around the entire perimeter. In total you will find 6 nuts there.
- Unplug the wire from the connector of your broken fan.
- Remove the fan casing, while also grabbing the drive, that is, the electric motor.
- Armed with a 10 mm wrench, you need to remove the three mounting bolts that hold the electric motor to the casing.
- Install the new fan in place of the old device.
- We return all the fasteners to their places, connect the connectors, and perform the assembly in the reverse order.
After installing new equipment, be sure to turn on the engine and let it run for a while. Until the fan turns on and the propeller starts spinning. This will take no more than 5 minutes. Soon the fan should turn off on its own. If it does not stop, turn off the engine. Repeat the experiment.
It rarely turns out that after replacement the fan still does not work. Even if this happened, this is due to two possible events - other elements of the cooling system were damaged, or you purchased a non-working fan. Alas, given the number of fakes on the market, the second option cannot be ruled out.
VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115 cars considered
Fuses for the VAZ 2114 injector and VAZ 2115 injector are also described on this page.
Where are the fuses and relays located?
The main part of the fuses and relays is located in the mounting block of the engine compartment.
To get to the block you need to press two latches and remove the cover
Using pliers installed in the block, remove the fuses
On the inside of the cover there is a diagram of the location of fuses and relays.
Mounting blockfuses2114-3722010-60
Decryption
K1 - Relay for turning on headlight cleaners, K2 - Relay-breaker for turn signals and alarm, K3 — Windshield wiper relay, K4 — Relay for monitoring the health of brake lamps and side lights, K5 — Relay for power windows, K6 — Relay for turning on the sound signal, K7 — Relay for turning on the heating rear window, K8 - On relay high beam headlights, K9 - Headlight low beam relay, F1 - F16 - Fuses, F1 - F20 - Spare fuses
fuse no. | Protected circuits |
|---|---|
Fuse for fog lights VAZ 2114, 2115 - rear fog light lamps and rear fog light indicator lamp |
|
Direction indicators, relay-interrupter of direction indicators and hazard warning lights (in hazard warning mode) Hazard warning lamp |
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Front interior lamp. Central interior lamp. Lamp lighting luggage compartment. Illumination lamp for the ignition switch. Lamp for monitoring the engine management system. Brake light bulbs. Trip computer(if installed) |
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Socket for connecting a portable lamp. Relay for turning on the heated rear window (contacts). Rear window heating element |
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Sound signal. Horn relay. Cooling fan electric motor. Fan fuse. |
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Electric windows. Power window relay (contacts) |
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Heater electric motor. Heater fuse for VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115. Electric motor for windshield washer. Headlight wiper motors (in operating mode) Cigarette lighter fuse. Lighting lamp glove box. Rear window heating relay (winding) |
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Fuse for fog lamps VAZ 2114, 2115 - Right fog lamp |
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Fuse for fog lamps VAZ 2114, 2115 - Left fog lamp |
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Side light lamps on the left side. Indicator lamp for turning on the side light. License plate lamps. Engine compartment lamp Instrument lighting switch. Fuse for backlight lamps of switches, instruments, cigarette lighter, ashtray, heater control levers |
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Side light lamps on starboard side |
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Right headlight (low beam) |
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Left headlight (low beam) |
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Left headlight (high beam). High beam indicator lamp |
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Right headlight (high beam) |
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Direction indicators, relay-interrupter for direction indicators and hazard warning lights (in turn indication mode). Light lamps reversing. Relay for monitoring the health of lamps. On-board control system display unit. Instrument cluster. Indicator lamp insufficient pressure oils. Power indicator lamp parking brake(brake light fuse). Level indicator lamp brake fluid. Low battery indicator lamp. Trip computer (if installed). Generator field winding (in engine starting mode) |
Fuse mounting block 2114-3722010-18
K1-relay for turning on headlight cleaners; K2-relay-breaker for direction indicators and hazard warning lights; K3 - windshield wiper relay; K4-relay for monitoring the health of lamps; K5-power window relay; K6 - relay for turning on sound signals; K7-relay for turning on the electric heating of the rear window; K8-relay for high beam headlights; K9-relay for low beam headlights; F1-F16 - fuses
fuse no. | Decryption |
Right fog lamp |
|
Left fog lamp |
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Headlight cleaners (at the moment of switching on). Relay for turning on headlight cleaners (contacts). Headlight washer activation valve |
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Headlight cleaners (in operating mode). Relay for turning on headlight cleaners (winding). Heater fan motor - heater fuse Window washer motor. Rear window wiper motor. Rear window washer timing relay. Valves for turning on the windshield and rear windows. Relay (winding) for turning on the electric fan of the engine cooling system. Relay (winding) for turning on the heated rear window. Rear window heating indicator lamp. Glove compartment lamp |
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Direction indicators and relay-interrupter for direction indicators and alarms (in direction indication mode). Control lamp of indexes of turn. Rear lights (reversing lamps). Gearmotor and windshield wiper activation relay. The excitation winding of the generator (when starting the engine). Brake fluid level warning lamp. Oil pressure warning lamp. Carburetor choke control lamp. Parking brake warning lamp. "STOP" light display lamp. Coolant temperature gauge. Fuel gauge with reserve warning lamp. Voltmeter |
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Rear lights (stop lights). Interior lighting |
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Power windows for front doors. Power window relay |
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License plate lights. Engine compartment lamp. Instrument lighting lamps. Indicator lamp for external lighting. Heater lever illumination display. Cigarette lighter lamp |
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The electric motor of the engine cooling system fan, and its activation relay (contacts). Sound signal and relay for its activation |
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Left headlight (side light). Left rear light (side light) |
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Right headlight (side marker). Right rear light (side light) |
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Direction indicators and hazard warning relay-breaker (in hazard warning mode). Hazard warning lamp |
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Rear window heating element. Relay (contacts) for turning on the heated rear window. Plug socket for portable lamp. cigarette lighter |
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Right headlight (high beam) |
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Left headlight (high beam). Indicator lamp for high beam headlights |
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Left headlight (low beam) |
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Right headlight (low beam) |
Fuse diagram for VAZ 2114, 2115, description of the main elements of the fuse mounting block.
Click on the image to enlarge.
Connection diagram of the mounting block VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115 (the outer number in the designation of the wire tip is the number of the block, the inner number is the conventional number of the tip): K1 - relay for turning on the headlight cleaners; K2 - relay-interrupter for direction indicators and hazard warning lights; Short circuit - windshield wiper relay; K4 - lamp health monitoring relay; K5 - power window relay (in the vehicle version); K6 - relay for turning on sound signals; K7 — relay for turning on the heated rear window; K8 - headlight high beam relay; K9 - relay for low beam headlights; F1-F16 - fuses
Removing the mounting block VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115
Disconnect the negative cable terminal from the battery. From the passenger compartment (under the instrument panel on the left side) we disconnect the five wiring harness blocks from the bottom side of the block. Remove the cover of the mounting block. For clarity, the removal of the mounting block is shown with the hood removed.
Disconnect the wiring harness block from the top side of the block.
Using a 10mm socket with an extension, unscrew the nut of the left fastening of the mounting block.
We disconnect four more wiring harness blocks from the bottom side of the block.
And remove the mounting block. Installation is reverse to removal.
Fuse box of VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115 in the cabin.
This block is located at the bottom left under the glove compartment on the center console.
On different modifications car block may vary. The location of the fuel pump fuse for VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 may also differ.
How to get there and a description of the block is shown in the pictures.
If you don't see the numbers, click on the image.
1 - fuel pump relay
2 - main relay
3 - fan relay
f1 - fuel pump fuse VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115
f2 - main relay circuit fuses.
f3 - electronic control unit fuse
The numbering order of the plugs in the connecting blocks of the mounting block 2114.
A - area of the mounting block located in the car interior;
B - area of the mounting block located in engine compartment car.
location of block Ш11.
Diagram of internal connections of mounting block 2114.
Block | Plug no. | Color | Electrical circuits |
BG | window control buttons |
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ignition switch (cl. 15/2) |
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MS | ignition relay |
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ZhG | heater motor switch |
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ignition switch (terminal 30) |
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KR | ignition switch (cl. 30/1), ignition relay |
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door lock control unit |
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ignition switch (terminal 50) |
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BG | rear window wiper switch |
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Turn signal switch (right) |
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brake light switch |
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BC | lamp continuity indicator |
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IF | |||
GB | left front door |
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— | reserve |
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AF | high beam warning lamp |
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— | reserve |
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OC | rear fog light switch |
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GP | fuel reserve warning lamp |
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IF | fuel level warning lamp |
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warhead | dome light |
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KG | hand brake warning lamp |
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MS | Turn signal switch (left) |
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— | reserve |
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weight " - " |
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speed sensor |
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state of emergency | hazard warning switch |
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GC | direction indicator switch |
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Sat | oil level warning lamp |
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weight |
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RB | washer fluid level warning lamp |
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RF | brake lining wear warning lamp |
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outdoor light switch |
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ZhZ | |||
PG | portable lamp connection socket |
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reinforced concrete | windshield wiper and washer switch |
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RK | windshield wiper and washer switch |
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ZhP | outdoor light switch |
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fog light warning lamp |
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— | reserve |
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SG | oil pressure indicator |
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— | reserve |
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windshield wiper and washer switch |
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SO | windshield wiper and washer switch |
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windshield wiper and washer switch |
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reserve |
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RFP | incl. and indicator lamp for heated rear window |
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GB | headlight switch (high beam) |
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OG | windshield wiper, instrument cluster |
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ZhP | exterior light switch, parking light switch |
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Instrument lighting rheostat |
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reserve |
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BW | windshield wiper and washer switch |
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terminal Ш4 - 3 |
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MF | horn switch |
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brake light switch |
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— | reserve |
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joint venture | headlight switch (low beam) |
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ZhP | steering column light switch |
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reserve |
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off headlight cleaner |
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WG | brake fluid level warning lamp |
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ZB | coolant temperature gauge |
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KB | battery charge indicator lamp |
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fog light switch |
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GO | coolant level warning lamp |
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KP | tachometer |
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high beam (right) |
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AF | high beam (left) |
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MF | low beam (left) |
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GP | starter (cl. 50) |
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electric radiator cooling fan |
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low beam (right) |
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— | reserve |
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MS | Turn signal (left front) |
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reserve |
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— | reserve |
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reserve |
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headlight cleaner relay, electric relay headlight washer motor |
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side light (right front) |
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warhead | off engine compartment lamp |
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ZhCh | side light (left front) |
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Turn signal (right front) |
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reverse light switch |
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WG | brake fluid level sensor |
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— | reserve |
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ZhG | email f r cleaner engine |
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email headlight cleaner motor |
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reserve |
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Sat | oil level sensor |
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MF | sound signals |
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speed sensor |
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ZB | coolant temperature sensor |
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generator (cl. 61) |
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BUEM (cl. 5) |
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warhead | engine compartment lamp switch |
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RB | washer fluid level sensor |
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RF | brake pad wear sensor |
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joint venture | BUEM (cl. 6) |
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KP | ignition coil |
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RZ | coolant level sensor |
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MF | fog light relay |
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ZhP | fog light relay |
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ZhCh | fog lamp (left) |
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fog lamp (right) |
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GP | ignition coil, BUEM (cl. 4) |
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generator (cl. 30) |
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generator (cl. 30) |
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starter relay |
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RF | fog light relay |
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reserve |
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Turn signal (right rear and side) |
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BG | email rear window wiper motor |
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OC | rear fog lights |
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MF | rear door limit switch |
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IF | front right door limit switch |
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warhead | dome light |
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KG | Parking brake warning light switch |
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MS | Turn signal (left rear and side) |
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rear window heating elements |
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license plate light |
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GB | front left door |
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dome light |
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brake lights |
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side light (right rear) |
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reversing light |
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ZhCh | side light (left rear) |
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ZhG | rear window cleaner |
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rear window heating element |
|||
Ш11 | RB | washer pump |
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RF | rear window washer valve |
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— | reserve |
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carburetor limit switch |
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warhead | engine compartment lamp |
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joint venture | carburetor electric valve |
||
reserve |
|||
engine compartment lamp |
|||
windshield wiper motor |
|||
reserve |
|||
SG | emergency oil pressure sensor |
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reserve |
|||
windshield washer valve |
|||
SO | wiper motor |
||
wiper motor |
|||
reserve |
|||
reinforced concrete | wiper motor |
||
reserve |
Overheating of the engine leads to serious problems: the pistons may jam, the cylinder block gasket may break through, which leads to the need to repair overhaul motor. To protect power unit from overheating, it is important to maintain stable operation of the cooling fan. In this article we will discuss the principle of operation of the device, its connection diagram, self-diagnosis and repair, as well as modernization of the control circuit. The instructions are fully suitable for VAZ 2115 and VAZ 2113 cars.
Operating principle
A fan is a device that allows you to increase the efficiency of a cooling radiator. The radiator takes heat from the engine and releases it into the air. This process is accelerated by blowing through the blades of an electric fan.
The coolant flows through a closed, sealed system. Its task is to remove excess heat from overheated engine parts. Hot antifreeze flows into the radiator, is cooled here and returns back. While in the radiator, the coolant passes through a system of thin tubes. The incoming air flow while the car is moving helps to quickly remove excess heat from the engine compartment.
But when the car is stuck in a traffic jam or running Idling, the air flow stops cooling it. In this case, the cooling system may not cope with its task. An electric radiator fan is designed to create air flow artificially. The temperature for turning on the fan on a VAZ 2114 is 85 degrees Celsius.
Having received a signal that the permissible temperature value has been exceeded, the sensor starts the device’s operating mechanism. An artificial air flow is created that removes heat from the radiator. The mechanism operates until the temperature level drops to an optimal state.
The thermal switch then receives a signal that the normal temperature has been reached and turns off the fan.
The device consists of four plastic blades that are mounted on the EDF shaft. A special controller regulates the automatic operating mode. The thermostat is equipped with a solid filler that is sensitive to temperature changes.
There are main and additional valves. When the temperature reaches 85 degrees Celsius, the main valve opens.
Wiring diagram
Where is the fan relay
It is located in an additional block.
4 - electric fan relay;
5 – electric fuel pump;
6 – ignition relay.
Relays and fuses may have a different order. Therefore, you need to focus on the color of the wires. The main relay is always located at the bottom. Find the relay that has a thin pink wire with a black stripe coming from it. It comes from the main relay through pin 85. Be careful! Do not confuse this with the red thin wire, which also has a black stripe and extends from the controller. And find a thick white wire with a black stripe (pin 87). This is where the cooling fan relay is located. There is always a fuse next to it. It is an element of the chain.
Cooling fan diagnostics
If on dashboard signals appear that the permissible temperature level in the cooling system has been exceeded, this may indicate that the fan on the VAZ 2114 is not working. The main symptom of the malfunction is that the mechanism does not start even with a significant increase in temperature. It is urgent to turn off the engine to prevent its elements from overheating.
The engine should not be operated with a faulty electric cooling fan. This may damage the cylinder head.
If the cooling fan on a VAZ 2114 does not work, the following malfunctions may be the cause of the breakdown:
- The fan switch sensor on a VAZ 2114 has failed.
- Lack of contact at the sensor connector.
- The wiring has broken.
- Electric fan relay faulty.
- The fuse has blown.
- Damage to the device's electric motor drive.
Unplug the device. Connect it to the battery terminal. Maintaining polarity. If a direct connection to an energy source starts the electric motor, then the drive is working. There may be problems with the wiring, the fuse, or the temperature sensor.
Now it’s time to diagnose the fuse. You don't even have to open the plastic box to do this. If the relay malfunctions, the horn stops working at the same time as the fan. Therefore, if you notice the loss of the sound signal, it means that the fuse has definitely blown. You can find it in the engine compartment in a small plastic box. We release the cover, pressed by two latches, take out the burnt fuse with tweezers and replace it with a new one.
But diagnosing a relay is quite difficult. Especially for those who are exclusively “you” with auto electrics. To check functionality, the easiest way is to find a working relay and temporarily install it. If, after installing a new device, the fan begins to work properly, then it is time to replace the old one.
To diagnose the temperature sensor that supplies a signal to the radiator, you need to disconnect the connector from the sensor and start the ignition. The emergency mode will start, in which the electric fan will start blowing. If the fan starts late when the connector is disconnected, the sensor is most likely faulty. Replacing it will take no more than five minutes. You just need to unscrew two bolts using a Phillips screwdriver and install a new device in its place.
Even if a malfunction has occurred in the VAZ 2114 fan itself, this does not mean that it is time to change it. Sometimes you can simply replace a damaged bearing or brushes. But if the electric motor is faulty, it is much easier to purchase a new mechanism.
How to make a replacement
If you are convinced that the cause of the malfunction lies in the fan motor, then the easiest way to carry out repairs is to completely replace the device. In this case, there is no point in spending money on a new casing. It will be cheaper to just buy a new electric motor.
Necessary tool
No special tool is needed. The work is carried out simply using 8 and 10 socket wrenches and a Phillips screwdriver.
Step-by-step algorithm of work
You can replace the cooling fan motor without removing the radiator.
- Disconnect the connector and device wiring harness from the casing.
- Unscrew the mounting bolts using a 10mm wrench.
- Unscrew the lower fastening nut.
- Using a 10 mm socket wrench, unscrew the mounting nut from the radiator.
- Using a size 8 socket wrench, unscrew the two pressure plate nuts.
- Remove the plate.
- Remove the electric fan along with the casing.
- Let's start dismantling the electric motor. Using a 10 mm wrench, unscrew the three mounting nuts and remove the engine along with the blades.
- Use a screwdriver to pry up the lock washer.
- And take it off.
- Remove the impeller.
- Put the impeller on the new motor. Make sure that the shaft pin fits into the impeller groove.
- Reassemble in reverse order.
How to replace a temperature sensor
Before starting work, you need to partially drain the coolant from the cylinder block.
What to do if the electric fan runs constantly?
Sometimes another problem arises. Many car enthusiasts are interested in why the fan on the VAZ 2114 is constantly running?
There are four possible causes of the malfunction:
- a short circuit has occurred in the electrical circuit;
- the electric fan relay has broken down;
- The temperature sensor needs to be replaced;
- The electronic unit is broken.
Most often, the fan starts to work continuously as a result of a shorted wire. The electrical circuit remains on regardless of the signals from the temperature sensor and relay.
To troubleshoot the problem, you need to ring each wire and find the fusion point. Sometimes it is noticeable even upon visual inspection. 
If ringing does not help identify the malfunction, you need to check and replace the fan relay. The cost of the device is low. Therefore, for diagnostics it is easier to buy a new relay and install it in place of the old one.
If this does not help, then you need to check the operation of the temperature sensor. After all, it is he who is responsible for turning on and off the electric motor of the VAZ 2114 fan.
At good work all other elements of the system, you need to check the electronic module. It rarely fails. If the problem still occurs there, you will have to perform a complete error reset. Sometimes only a complete flashing helps. Not everyone can do this work on their own. Therefore, it is better to seek help from a car service center.
It would also be useful to install a button forced launch and turning off the fan on the VAZ 2114. 
This solution can be very useful if the breakdown occurs somewhere on the highway far from the city. In this case, using the button on the instrument panel, you can force the fan to cool the engine.
The fan serves to generate air flows that are directed to the engine radiator. This is necessary in order to cool the liquid that circulates through it.
If the car is moving at high speed, the fan is not particularly required, since the engine receives all the necessary cooling from oncoming air flows. But when the car goes into slow driving or idle mode with the engine running, the role of the propeller becomes indispensable.
Switching on occurs after the corresponding signal is sent from the electronic control unit. The ECU, in turn, learns about the need to turn on the fan from the temperature sensor. The switching threshold is 103-105 degrees Celsius.
In the case of the VAZ 2114, the fan (propeller) is located in the engine compartment on the back side of the radiator.
Why doesn't it work
There are several reasons why the propeller may not turn on when the temperature situation requires it:
- The electric motor of the fan, that is, the drive, has failed;
- The fuse broke and burned out;
- Relay failed;
- The wiring is broken;
- The sensor connectors have lost contact;
- The sensor has failed.
Finding the fault
|
Problem search area |
Explanation |
|
Propeller check |
The connector on the propeller is disconnected and connected directly to the battery. If the fan starts working, everything is fine with the drive. If the propeller still does not spin, the problem is in the electric motor. |
|
Wiring and contacts |
If the propeller does not work, you must check the condition of the wiring and make sure that the sensor contacts are working properly |
|
You can find these two elements in the engine compartment on the left, closer to the driver, inside the mounting block. The fan is supplied with a fuse designated F4 with a rated current of 20A. The test can be performed by pressing the horn button. Why? Yes, because it is also connected to this fuse. Or check with a tester |
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It is located in the same place as the fuse. For an effective test, it is best to take a relay that you are 100% sure is working, install it in place of the old one and check |
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To test the sensor, disconnect power from it. If it works, the propeller will start working in emergency mode, that is, it will blow constantly. Disconnect the connector and turn on the ignition. If the propeller spins, then the sensor is broken. Need a replacement |
When to change
If the fan itself is the cause of all the problems, it is not necessary to change it, since in some cases it can be repaired. Failures are often associated with bearings or brushes.
If the cause of the breakdown is the failure of the electric motor due to a broken wiring or short circuit, it is not worth the risk of repairing it. It is easier and better to replace the entire drive.
If you drive a car that does not have a cooling propeller, this will lead to overheating of the coolant and destruction of pipes, rubber elements, gaskets of the main cylinder block and valve covers. It is not far from destroying the components of the piston group.
Operating a vehicle with a broken fan is strictly prohibited.
Issue price
Before starting to solve the problem of a radiator propeller not working, it is important for many people to learn about the cost of components and labor.
A new element today will cost approximately 1.5-2.5 thousand rubles, depending on the model and region. The cost of replacement at a service station will be from 400 rubles and more. Although it is not necessary to spend money on this, since replacing it yourself will take you no more than half an hour. Yes, and there is nothing particularly complicated here.
Replacement
In order to replace the fan cooling propeller with your own hands, you will need a fairly small set of tools, which includes:
- Crosshead screwdriver;
- 8 mm socket wrench;
- 10mm socket wrench.
If you are ready, then let's get started.
- Place the car on a level surface and apply the handbrake. Just in case, you can put additional supports under the wheels of your VAZ 2114. It never hurts to take precautions.
- Raise the hood and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
- Using a 10 mm wrench, the fasteners of the air filter housing are removed.
- Armed with a screwdriver, loosen the clamp from the air duct located on the mass air flow sensor. This way you can remove the corrugation. Do it.
- There are screws on the air filter housing cover that hold it in place. They are unscrewed with a screwdriver, after which the filter component is removed from its seat.
- Now take an 8 mm wrench and use it to remove the air intake fasteners, and then remove the air intake itself.
- Now, using a 10 and 8 mm wrench, remove the fastening nuts on the fan casing around the entire perimeter. In total you will find 6 nuts there.
- Unplug the wire from the connector of your broken fan.
- Remove the fan casing, while also grabbing the drive, that is, the electric motor.
- Armed with a 10 mm wrench, you need to remove the three mounting bolts that hold the electric motor to the casing.
- Install the new fan in place of the old device.
- We return all the fasteners to their places, connect the connectors, and perform the assembly in the reverse order.
After installing new equipment, be sure to turn on the engine and let it run for a while. Until the fan turns on and the propeller starts spinning. This will take no more than 5 minutes. Soon the fan should turn off on its own. If it does not stop, turn off the engine. Repeat the experiment.